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Re: battery terminals was hooked up wrong, transmission...
I dont think so as the battery shouldent have anything to do with your trans
All batterys are Red lead to feed and Black to Earth and the batterys are markrd (poss+ and Neg--)
so you cannot go wrong..
Let me know how you get on Ron
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WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN THE PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED.
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.
Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described to perform the following tests:
A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ±5 ohms . If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 86 and a ground lead to terminal 85 to energize the relay. The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to Relay Circuit Test procedure. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to the common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87 and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the starter solenoid as required.
The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is energized when the ignition switch is held in the Start position and the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans). Check for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the Start position and the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans), and no voltage when the ignition switch is released to the ON position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, check for an open or short circuit to the ignition switch and repair, if required. If the circuit to the ignition switch is OK, see the Ignition Switch Test procedure.
The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is grounded through the transmission range sensor only when the gearshift selector lever is in the Park or Neutral positions. Check for continuity to ground at the cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the transmission range sensor and repair. It is grounded by the PCM if the conditions are right to start the car. For automatic trans. cars the PCM must see Park Neutral switch and near zero engine rpm. For manual trans. cars the PCM only needs to see near zero engine rpm. To diagnose the Park Neutral switch of the trans range sensor refer to the transaxle section for more information. Check for continuity to ground while the ignition switch is in the start position. If not OK and the vehicle has an automatic trans. verify Park Neutral switch operation. If that checks OK check for continuity between PCM and the terminal 85. Repair open circuit as required. If OK, the PCM may be defective
torque converter clutch solenoid is not releaseing lock up. caused this to happecn. does this vehicle transmission have a vacuum modulator on the side of transmission case? below front side left center of trans case.
Did this happen after you put the new battery in?
I have run into where people just put a new Pep Boys or Kragen or whomever battery in and had issues afterwards. Soemtimes the terminals don't tighten. The bolt will be as tight as you can get it without stripping and the terminal can still be moved. The battery terminal hole may be too shallow not alloing the bolt to go deep enough.
Things will work until you try to start, The starter will draw a lot of juice and cause the loose terminal to arc and lose connection.
Now if this was happening before you replaced the battery then it may be the starter orits circuit. Hook a test light to the starters small "S" terminal and try to start. If the ight comes on its a bad starter. If no light then you need to trace that back. Manual transmission should have a safety switch on the clutch pedal. Automatic will have a neutral safety switch on the transmission (right side where the gear selector hooks to).
But that sudden loss of power makes me thing there is a loose connection arcing. If not at the battery then check the under hood fuse and relay panel.
make sure you put torch converter inside of trans be for you put it up. lift trans to bake of motor and lock in bell housing bolts
jack trans up and put cross bar and trans mount in .
go back to torch converter and install bolts to flywheel.
install dust cover then hook trans lines .
then install drive shafe then hook up shifter cable.
then put in your trans fluid
With so little info, you can only guess. Most computer controled transmission default to either second or third gear if there is an electrical problem.
The mitubishi trans has sensors on the trans that if they are hooked up wrong, it wont shift. If the fluid is full and clean, odds are you have an electrical problem. Could even be a fuse or the computer.
This is a sign of a very serious internal failure in the transmission, I don't recommend that u drive this car as the trans may lock up up and cause u to have an accident, you need to have a trans shop look at this right away.
sounds like linkage is out of ajustment, or it got hooked back up wrong, or it got bent when the old one was taken out, or new one was put in, or new trans. is for a differant model like car or truck ect.
You Both lost a sensor in the transmission, "Torque Converter Lock-up sensor" , you should be able to Unhook the battery and wait 5 mins and re-hook up the battery and the cars should be fine FOR a Short Time.. The Problem is ALL shops Want to Rebuild the Whole trans for this one sensor, Sorry..
When was the transmission rebuilt and was it done by a shop with a warranty? I have yet to see an alternator cause damage to a transmission but there has been stranger things. If the alternator was hooked up wrong or a wire was left off, the system could be loosing power to one of the ECMS. Or one of the ecms could of been damage if the wrong battery terminal was hooked up. That I have seen. For the moment, it sounds like the car is in limp home, which is a safety feature by the manufactures that does not allow the car to be driven. Are there any lights on, check engine light, transmission light ect when the car is running?
It shouldn't be,however.....when replacing batteries,or simply disconnecting and reconnecting to clear a code for example,always hook up the positive terminal first and the negative terminal last,and,with the ignition OFF.Infrequently,if a battery is hooked up with the key in the ON position,it can damage the vehicles computer....(PCM,TCM,BCM,etc etc)And the reason for hooking up the negative terminal LAST is to avoid arky sparky's off of your wrench which can also damage the vehicle's computer (s).Try disconnecting both negative terminals of both batteries and let sit for minimum 20 minutes,then reconnect,and see what you have.