Question about 2007 GMC Envoy Denali
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There should just be metal clips on each end. Use a thin/standard screwdriver and pry out on the clips. They won't come off completey, but just pop out a little ways. Once they do, just pull and wiggle the strut and it should pop off the ball it's snapped on to. To install the new ones, just make sure the new clips are in the "out" position, snap the socket on to the ball and push in on the clip to secure it in place. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
are you changing the strut cartridge or the whole spring unit? if you are installing the whole unit, spring and all you will need no special tools, if not you will need a spring compressor
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
A: Use two jack-stands under the front-frame rails, a hydraulic jack under the "bulb" in the control-arm and a third jack-stand under the "spindle extension" of the rotor. It's not necessary to remove the calipers and/or rotors. The upper strut-mounts might need to be forcibly loosened and then removed. If the old struts are worn out enough, they should just compress by themselves. The new struts should be able to be compressed by hand and then positioned in place as fast as possible, before they extend.
For the strut-to-knuckle bolts to loosen, use a pipe extension to the fixed driver of the socket-set. To tighten these bolts, first torque them to 170 Nm and then give them an additional turn of 120 degrees. For the latter, use the pipe-extension again
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
you must use a spring compressor, its a safety thing, The strut unit can be removed w/out the compressor but once the unit is out (2 nuts on top, 1 large nut on bottom) the compressor must be used to allow you to remove the top center nut holding the strut into the top housing. Take special note of the spring position, it is exactly opposite for either side. I was able to rent the compressor tool for $54 at advanced auto supply and upon returning the tool got my entire deposit back
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
don't need any special tools, standard sockets sets, "C" clams is a must unless your a He-Man and wrench set, plyer or needle nose will do. I assumed being 2003 your rotor never have been turn and i recommend every time you change your bakes is good idea to have your rotor turn. reason is it will make your pad last lot longer, removed any vibration and better even wear on the pad and eliminate any squealing although is not necessary to do so. make sure you get extra break fluid to bleed the brakes. get your self 5 feet long smallest vacum rubber hoses and a glass jar to bleed your brake fluid in. the rubber vacum hose you going to use to fit on to the bleeding nipple and run the other end of line to your the glass jar to save the brake fluid when you bleed the brakes. when removing caliper, check inspect make sure the rubber seals around your piston look good and not crack or deteriorated. before applying new pad make sure you open the bleed valve to reduce the pressure by turning the bleed nipple counter clockwise and leave it open attach that rubber hoses to the nipple because you going to press on the piston back into it housing with the "C" clamp in order for new pad to fit. becareful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston. its going to take lots of effort to push that piston back in so be a bare with it if needs to. once the pad is back in make sure you keep the reservoir full with brake fluid and then bleed the brake. two people is a good idea to do brake. one will do the pumping the brake and holding it down and other will bleed the nipple. I bleed it 2-3 time will do the job. good luck!
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
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