Question about 2005 Ford Ranger

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I see three bolts attaching the distributor module to the top of the rocker cover on the right bank of my 3 liter ranger engine. I need to remove and clean the inside of this unit. Is there more to this procedure than straight forward removing and replacing the unit? Are there any mechanical timing issues one must take into consideration? 2005 ranger 3 liter engine 17000 miles

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No, just make sure that all the wires go back on the same terminal and that there is no water in the boots.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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I. Need. Help. With. Cam bolts. And head bolts


Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves
  • Oil and coolant drain
  • Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
  • Shop rags
  • Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
    Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
    Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
    Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

    Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

    Materials Needed
    • Head bolt socket (if needed)
    • Numbered cardboard
    • Rubber hammer
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
      The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
      Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
      Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
      Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
      Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
      The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
      Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
      • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

      Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

      Material Needed
      • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
        This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
        Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
        Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
        Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
        Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
        Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
        • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
        Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Sep 29, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I get to the spark plugs and wires in a 4.0 oldsmobile Aura. What do I have to take off to get to it.


The 4.0 has a 'distributor on plug' configuration. Thus, when you open the hood, on the front bank the distributor is the large gray plastic bar sitting atop the valve covers. Looking at the front bank, there is a large wiring harness that clips to the right side of the distributor. Disconnect this and unbolt the distributor on the front bank; if i recall correctly, there are about 6 or so black screws attaching it to the black valve cover. evenly pull the distributor off the valve cover/plugs by pulling straight up on the module (don't pry from one end or the other, lift up evenly). once removed the heads of the plug boots are black rubber discs about the size of a half dollar (4 of them on each bank). lift the edges & pull them out with even pressure; it may take a bit of force. While you're in there, change the plugs (use AC Delco OEM spec plugs). a little plug lube and install the new plug boots, the distributor, install the wiring harness & you're done with the front bank.
The rear is a bit more of a pain because the secondary air valve is bolted to a plate that blocks your ability to remove the rear distributor. to remove this, there are two nuts that secure it to the secondary air return tube clear behind and down the back of the engine. i think it's a 10mm nut One on each side, and another holding the valve to the plate, remove this & the plate, and repeat the steps performed on the front bank.

Mar 05, 2011 | 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora

1 Answer

Timing belt broke ,just replace it but it won`t crank.it sounds like electric priblem


Only the 2.3 liter diesel is an interference engine. The 2.3 Liter gas is not an interference engine. I would guess the belt was not installed correctly. The belt broke so the cam was then out of alignment with the crankshaft. Unless you aligned it correctly it will not start. BTW, the belt must be replaced every 60,000 miles. I asume you have the timing cover off, put it back on and set the crankshaft at the 0 mark on the timing cover, remove the cover and don't touch the crank. near the bottom of the cam gear is a protruding piece of plastic with three raised areas, set the cam timing mark at the first pointer, closest to the passenger side . on the back part of the timing cover is a v shaped pointer set the distributor gear mark at the pointer, remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing at #1. Loosen both bolts on the tensioner and using a pry bar carefully pry the tensioner away from the distributor gear, tighten the small bolt on the tensioner. install the new belt starting at the crank, then the distributor gear, then the cam, then over the tensioner pulley. loosen the small bolt and the tensioner will adjust automatically. tighten the tensioner bolts and turn the engine over by hand 2 or 3 times and make sure all marks line up ( the cam mark should now be at the center pointer with the crank at 0). I find it handy to paint a reference mark for the crank inside the timing cover.

Mar 16, 2010 | 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab

2 Answers

96 jeep grand cherokee. i changed my rotor and distributor cap and not the jeep want turn over i believe i got the plugs correct but how do i check my work? if you was building this car for the first time...


just answered this and the web site crashed .try again 153624 is the firing order ,to check it out just remove the rocker cover and check the valves ,using a rachet on the bottom pulley bolt turn engine till exhaust valve closes then turn some more till inlet valve opens keep turning slowly and when inlet valve closes and you turn a fraction then rotor arm will be pointing at no1, difference between valves when you look at them easy the exhaust valve lines up with the exhaust manifold

Jan 19, 2010 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I replace the valve cover gaskets for a 1996 Ford Ranger w/ 3.0L Engine?


The valve covers installed on the 3.0L engine incorporate integral (built in) gaskets which should last the life of the vehicle. Replacement gaskets are available if required.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs, but leave them attached to their wire looms.
  2. Remove the ignition wire separators from the rocker arm cover attaching bolt studs with the wires attached, then lay the wires out of the way.
  3. If the left hand cover is being removed, remove the throttle body assembly, the PCV valve and fuel injector harness stand-offs. If the right hand cover is being removed, remove the engine harness connectors, fuel injector harness stand-offs and air cleaner closure hose from the oil fill adapter.
  4. Using caution, slide a sharp thin blade knife between the cylinder head gasket surface and the valve cover gasket at the four RTV junctions. CUT ONLY THE RTV SEALER AND AVOID CUTTING THE INTEGRAL GASKET.
  5. Remove the integral gasket from the valve cover gasket channel. Note bolt/stud fasteners locations before removing gasket for correct installation. Clean gasket channel and remove any traces of RTV sealant.

To install:
  1. Align fastener holes, lay new gasket onto channel and install by hand. Install gasket to each fastener, seat fastener against cover and at the same time roll gasket around fastener collar. If installed correctly all fasteners will be secured by gasket and not fall out.
  2. Install valve cover to the engine, lightly oil all bolts and stud threads. Apply a bead of RTV sealant at the cylinder head to intake manifold rail step (two places per rail).
  3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and install attaching bolts and studs. Tighten the attaching bolts to specifications.



0996b43f802117db.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Rocker arm cover installation on 3.0L engines
  1. Install all remaining components in reverse order of removal procedure. Connect the ignition wires to the spark plugs and reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and run to normal operating temperature, then check for oil and vacuum leaks.

Jan 19, 2010 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

2 Answers

I have a 2005 ford ranger with 3 liter engine. I


If you get this code, the first thing to check is your distributor especially if you have an imported vehicle. Look for signs of oil in the distributor which can contaminate the signals being monitored by the ecm (engine computer).Check also the wiring leading to the distributor and see if the wires are properly insulated away from hot exhaust which could burn the wires. Do these checks also on the crank sensor itself whether it is located in the front of the engine or at the flywheel at the rear of the engine. Ditto for the cam sensor.
spxcorporationotc-qny-rt%20copy.jpg On engine with distributor, the cam sensor is usually located in the distributor and it will give you a lot of grief if not properly align and synchronize with the crank sensor. On some applications (like Ford), an alignment tool is required which is can be bought from your local parts store (cost about $31). If you install the distributor without proper timing, it will still run but the mileage will suffer and the above code showing up. For more details, please contact ATS.

Oct 06, 2009 | 2005 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

98 dodge caravan 3 liter ticks on cold start,


SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE STICKY LASH ADJUSTER(LIFTER)..MANY MILES ON IT?HAVE YOU BEEN GOOD TO CHANGE OIL AND FILTER?TRY CHANGING THE OIL AND FILTER AND ADDING AN OIL SUPPLEMENT ..IF THIS DOESN'T WORK,YOU WILL HAVE TO ISOLATE WHICH BANK OF ENGINE NOISE IS COMING FROM,REMOVE VALVE COVER AND YOU CAN TO SEE WHICH ONE(S) ARE MAKING NOISE..PUSH DOWN ON EACH ROCKER ARM..A BAD ONE WILL BE SOFT..A GOOD ONE WILL BE HARD..NO LASH..TO REPLACE..YOU REMOVE ROCKER SHAFT BOLTS AND ROCKER SHAFTS..YOU CAN PURCHASE ONLY THE ONE(S) YOU NEED..BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU REMOVE ROCKER SHAFTS..THE LIFTERS CAN FALL OUT..GET A STICKY GREASE TO HOLD THEM IN ROCKER ARMS DURING REASSEMBLY..I HOPE THIS HELPS

Sep 19, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Adjust tappets


Hi,
The method of adjusting the tappets is the same on most engines that don't have hydraulic tappets.
The gap between rocker arm pad and the top of the valve stem is important for several reasons - to allow for expansion of the metal, to ensure that the valve is fully closed when needed, and to ensure the smooth running/timing of the engine.


The rocker cover gasket or oil filler cap leak eventually over a period of time and the top of the engine gets in a right mess, like the one shown here.
Remove the filler (series have a 7/16" bolt in the side of the cover to retain the filler)
The heater hoses are held by one of the three acorn nuts that hold the rocker cover on. Remove the center nut, and then slacken the 10mm pinch bolt enough for the pipe support to be removed.

Remove the other two acorn nuts and alloy washers, then the rocker cover will lift away.
Each tappet should have a locknut and slotted thread - you will need a 13mm ring spanner and blade screwdriver.

Starting at the front of the engine - turn the crankshaft by way of the crank bolt until No2 valve is open. The camshaft lobe for No1 is now out of the way and the tappet for it can be adjusted. Undo the locknut a couple of turns - if the threaded part turns as well, then keep it still with a screwdriver.
Insert the right thickness blade in the gap between the rocker pad and top of the valve stem and turn the tappet thread until the blade is slightly pinched. Keep the screwdriver dead still and tighten the locknut.
You may find that the tappet gap will close too much when you tighten the locknut. If that happens, then re-set the gap, allowing for this. Work through all 8-tappets, making sure that you set the correct gap for the valve - inlet or exhaust. Once done - clean around the top of the head, the gasket faces, and the rocker cover inside and out. Sticky gaskets are very handy.
Refit the cover, use new alloy washers on the three studs, and re-attach the heater hose clamp.
For pictures you can refer to: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8023

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

Aug 03, 2009 | 1996 Land Rover Discovery

3 Answers

I can only find three spark plugs on my freelander v6 engin


Remove
  1. Disconnect battery earth lead.
  2. Remove engine acoustic cover.
  1. RH bank only: Release locking clips and disconnect multiplugs from plug top coils.
  2. RH bank only: Remove 6 bolts securing plug top coils to RH camshaft cover and remove coils.
  1. LH bank only: Noting their fitted positions, disconnect ht leads.
  2. Using a 16 mm plug socket, remove spark plugs from both cylinder heads.
Refit
  1. Set gap of each new spark plug to 1.00 mm .
  2. Fit spark plugs and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft) .
  3. LH bank only: Connect ht leads.
  4. RH bank only: Fit plug top coils to spark plugs.
  5. RH bank only: Fit bolts securing plug top coils to RH camshaft cover and tighten to 9 Nm (6.5 lbf.ft) .
  6. RH bank only: Connect multiplugs to plug top coils and secure with locking clips.
  7. Fit engine acoustic cover.
  8. Connect battery earth lead.

Jun 04, 2009 | 2003 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Ignition Module


The module is INSIDE of the distibutor.

Disconnect the Battery, remove the distributor cap, then the rotor, then the leak cover.

The ignition coil has a little spring at the top and is held in by two large screw-bolts.

The ignition control module has 3 wires attached to the top and one on the side. It is held in with two screw-bolts and should come right out.


Feb 26, 2009 | 1993 Honda Civic 4 Door

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