Question about 2004 Mini Cooper

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The car did't want to start I check the battery with a tester and it shows battery was not good I replaced it but now it doesn't start i connect the obd II tester and it gave me a code P1611 what can I do to make it work again??

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  • djrafa_1 Oct 05, 2009

    well probably I didn't express my self correctly when I said it did'nt want to start this is what I mean I check the current on the car with a tester it shows the battery was not good so i was expecting this should fix my problem I went to the auto store and I bought a new battery I clean the battery terminals and install a new battery and it won;t crank ( the starter don't turn ) all the lights come on all the lights in the front panel come on and I have a code reader i conect it and it gave me a P1611 code  so now let me told you that I'm a small engine mechanic and I known the principals how a engine works the only think I don;t want to take this car to the dealer if you or some body can give me a clue to fix it I'll apreciattted  


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Try starting the car with a boost. be careful that you hook the cables up properly. when you attempt to start the vehicle what does it do ?

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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Hi
A gasoline engine needs three key ingredients to operate: 1) fuel (there has to be something to burn), 2) a spark to ignite the fuel, and 3) some way for the fuel to meet the spark and ignite a fire--this is the compression. Compressing fuel in a confined cylinder inside the engine, then introducing a spark from a spark plug will produce a small explosion. This explosion process is what generates horsepower.
So before you call the mechanic and tell him your car won't start, ask yourself this question FIRST, "What is missing in the equation (fuel, spark, compression)?" You went out to your car today, and the car won't start... how? Suppose the engine won't turn over. When I say the engine won't turn over, I mean when you turn the key the engine goes...blank..(nothing is happening). The radio and the lights may still be functioning fine.
What are the things that cause the engine to turn over? The battery and the starter are the two most important. If the headlights are on and are bright, then we could probably assume the battery is up to snuff and doing its job. The starter takes electricity from the battery and turns the engine over to start the piston explosion process I described earlier. So in this case there is probably a problem with the starter, or something is hampering the electricity from the battery to the engine or starter (maybe burned or damaged wiring or a bad ground connection).
The other type of "no start" occurs when the engine turns over like it is trying to start but will not start. So the battery and the starter are doing their jobs, but we are lacking one of the main exploding ingredients. Is there fuel? Look at the gauge first (we still get cars towed in to the shop and the no start correction is adding gas to the tank!) Do you have compression? Does the engine sound like it is turning over fully, or does the engine sound like it is turning over too fast or too slow? A broken timing belt or timing chain will cause the engine to turn over very easily and very fast because the compression process is not taking place.
Is there spark? This is not as easy to determine as it sounds, and can require some tools and experience to test. Now you probably don't care to "do it yourself" from here on out, but at least you have ruled out the battery, the starter, and a lack of fuel in the tank. This little bit of effort on your part saves the mechanic a lot of time trying to guess what happened and why, and you might actually find the problem yourself.
Is the car in PARK? The engine will only start in park and neutral. Do you have an anti-theft device, and is it working properly? If it is a stick shift, do you have the clutch pedal depressed? Are the front tires up against the curb? Sometimes it is very hard to turn the key if the front tires are in a bind on a curb, or if the car has rolled back a bit after it was placed in PARK. If this is the case, you can turn the steering wheel real hard to the right, or try to physically move or rock the car forward to release the key.

If you still have trouble it is time to call the tow truck. When you call the shop to inform them your car is on its way into their shop, you should be specific in the nature of the "no start" you've experienced. Saving your mechanic time should save you money.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.com

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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I don't have no radio after getting my main fuse by the motor replaced looked at fuse box all in japanese googgled elgrand but gave diagram but fuses seem ok if i checked them properly thanks


You can check every fuse on the car in 5 minutes, without even pulling the fuse out to inspect it. You just need a cheap test light, one with an electrical lead with a clip and a needle type probe.

On the tops of all fuses (maxi-fuses, regular fuses, & mini-fuses) are two indents with metal showing, one at each end of the top.
For the under hood fuses, clip the tester lead to the negative post of the battery. Touch the positive battery post with the probe to check your ground clip is good-tester should light up. Now turn the key to on, not start, and touch the tester probe to one end of a fuse in the little slot-it should light up-(almost) every fuse on the car will have power going through it with the key in on. Now you probe the other end of fuse: If fuse is good, tester will light on both ends of fuse. A blown fuse will only light the tester on one end of fuse. If both ends light, fuse is good, and move to next fuse.

For the fuses inside the car, just clip the tester lead to a good ground point-a metal screw or metal bracket under the dash. Again with key in on, touch a fuse end in that testing slot. If tester doesn't light,. check or reposition the ground lead till you see the tester light up. Now touch each fuse on both ends. A good fuse will light the tester on both ends of fuse, a blown fuse will only light tester on one end of the fuse. There, you are done. You not only have checked all fuses, you have verified that power is going through the fuse panel.

There may be one or two fuses that won't light the tester on either end with key on. Some cars have an interior lights fuse that only gets power with the head or park light switch turned on. And some cars have a "crank" fuse that only gets power when the key is in crank or start. (A fuse for the radio will certainly have power with key in on.) There are a few fuses that are hot at all times (like brake lights fuse, and most if not all of the maxi-fuses). But with key on, (almost) every fuse should show power and light up a test light. good luck.

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87 Chevy s10 blazer turns over won't start, no head lights, Dom light, could it be a fuseable link?


test the battery first with a load tester .if you dont have one take battery to local auto parts store they should check it for free. If battery is good start checking for bad termanal connections .check for dirty or bad connection on your starter also check ground connection for dirt or no connection these are the most common problems. if this was helpful please leave good feed back.

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No power to left rear turn/ brake light


Check the display. Ask a helper to step on the brake pedal while you check the lights from the rear. If no lights appear, check the fuse that connects the brake lights. The owners manual will show the location of the fuse box and which fuse is for the brake lights. Pull out the fuse and look at the wire in the central window. If the wire is broken, replace the fuse. Make sure the new fuse is not blown, and carries the same amperage.
Take note of lights that are out, if any are working. The problem may be cured by replacing the bulb in a brake light that's out. A burned out bulb has a broken filament and a dark brown spot on one side. Check the owners manual for bulb type.
Check the circuit if replacement bulbs and fuses do not restore the lights. Find the wiring diagram in the vehicle assembly manual. The circuit for the brake lights runs from the battery to the fuse, to the pedal switch, to a connection plug, to the lights. The circuit has to be checked with a volt tester at all points.
Check the battery power and the light on your volt tester. Turn the ignition key far enough to activate the electrical systems. Turn on the lights to check for battery power. If the battery has power, ues it to check the volt tester. Put the black lead (the ground) from the volt tester on the negative battery terminal. Briefly touch the red tester light on the positive terminal. The light on the volt tester should flash brightly.
Test the wiring to the fuse. Clip the ground wire to solid metal near the fuse. Touch the light tip to both sides of the fuse. Both should light the tester. If neither side lights, the wire between the battery and fuse is bad. If only one side lights, the fuse is blown.
Test the switch and wiring. Touch the light tip of the tester to both terminals on the brake pedal switch without putting any pressure on the pedal. One should carry power and the other should not. When both show power, the switch is stuck and the brake lights are always on. If neither shows power, the wiring between the fuse and the switch is bad. Now check both switch terminals while the pedal is depressed. Both sides should light the tester. If not, the switch is bad.
Check the connection plug. Unplug the connection and refer to the vehicle manual to identify the brake light wire. Touch the tester light on the brake light wire at the inner socket on the battery side. If the tester lights, the power is flowing to this point. If not, the wire between the plug and the pedal switch is bad.
Check the socket. Plug in the connector plug and remove the bulb. Touch the contact inside the socket. If the tester lights, the socket is good. The socket and wire running to the plug should be replaced if the tester doesn't light.
Check the bulb with the ground wire. The bulb must be in its socket. The ground wire running to the socket should be black or brown. Stab the tester through the insulation. If the tester lights, the bulb is good. Replace the bulb if it doesn't light.
Check the ground wire. Remove some of the insulation around the ground wire. Twist one end of the extra wire around the exposed ground wire. Touch the other end to a solid piece of metal. If the brake light comes on, the ground wire is bad.
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2003 bmw x5 4.4 battery light stays on


Brother Mark, changing the battery with a new one being done won't make the light go out, as you noticed. Light is still on so you changed the alternator. Good, but the battery light is STILL on. This only means that the charging circuit from the alternator is not working in the voltage regulator or the wiring is not connected properly to the alternator/regulator. A new battery will show over 13 to 13.5 volts not connected. An old battery will still show 12 volts and still be weak or bad. After connected and engine running, the system will show at least 14 volts because alternator/regulator is working properly, using a voltmeter/load tester connected to the battery. If after replacing the battery and alternator it is still reading 12 to 13.5 volts, it is not working and the light will stay lit on the dash. You may have purchased a faulty alternator if the system tests out this way. Have your system checked with a volt meter or load tester bit be sure all the connections are proper and clean.

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Alternator


Instructions1 Clean the positive and negative battery terminals to ensure a good connection with the tester's clamps.
2 Connect the positive and negative clamps to the appropriate battery terminals. The clamps must make firm contact with the battery terminals or the test results will be inaccurate or the tester may not work at all.
3 Turn the tester on and choose the option for "full charging system test." This will test your battery, starter and alternator and provide the most accurate picture of the problem.
4 Follow the directions on the tester's screen. These instructions will include cranking the vehicle after the battery test is performed, holding the engine at a certain RPM range and turning on certain accessories.
5 Read the results displayed on the tester's screen. The tester should scroll through the results, starting with the battery, then the starter and finally the alternator. An alternator test result showing diode ripple problems indicates a bad alternator.
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Generally, you can check and test alternator with this procedure...

1. Clean the positive and negative battery terminals to ensure a good connection with the tester's clamps.
2. Connect the positive and negative clamps to the appropriate battery terminals. The clamps must make firm contact with the battery terminals or the test results will be inaccurate or the tester may not work at all.
3. Turn the tester on and choose the option for "full charging system test." This will test your battery, starter and alternator and provide the most accurate picture of the problem.
4. Follow the directions on the tester's screen. These instructions will include cranking the vehicle after the battery test is performed, holding the engine at a certain RPM range and turning on certain accessories.
5. Read the results displayed on the tester's screen. The tester should scroll through the results, starting with the battery, then the starter and finally the alternator. An alternator test result showing diode ripple problems indicates a bad alternator.

Hope helps (remember rated this).
  • Step 2 Connect the positive and negative clamps to the appropriate battery terminals. The clamps must make firm contact with the battery terminals or the test results will be inaccurate or the tester may not work at all.
  • Step 3 Turn the tester on and choose the option for "full charging system test." This will test your battery, starter and alternator and provide the most accurate picture of the problem.
  • Step 4 Follow the directions on the tester's screen. These instructions will include cranking the vehicle after the battery test is performed, holding the engine at a certain RPM range and turning on certain accessories.
  • Step 5 Read the results displayed on the tester's screen. The tester should scroll through the results, starting with the battery, then the starter and finally the alternator. An alternator test result showing diode ripple problems indicates a bad alternator.

  • Read more: How to Test a Car's Alternator | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2079784_test-cars-alternator.html#ixzz0spTYveGJ

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    I had a similar situation where the battery tester showed 13V and green/good LED but I could not start my car. After many tests, I found out that the battery had good Voltage (13V) but not enough Amperage to crank the starter.
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