Question about 1992 Mercury Tracer

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Left side brake caliper wont close. no pressure

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No pressure or stuck piston in the caliper? When you bleed the line are you getting fresh fluid and plenty of it? I think you might just have a bit of air in the line yet. Use a clean jar and reuse the fluid. Its not the master cylinder or the right front wouldnt close either. Make sure you have the bleeder good and tight and that there is no drippings due to a broken brake line.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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Cant find brake module XL34-2C346BCF150....right side caliper hanging up or slow to release pressure. Has over 200k. Solenoid hangin up????calipers are new. Pulls left when braking and after stop as I...


Pump the brake pedal then go check and see witch caliper is hanging up release the bleeder on the affected one if fluid comes out under pressure and the caliper then frees (wheel would have to be off ground ) the flex hose could be falling apart inside and pluggin up.Replace flex hose.

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I have a 2004 Mazda MPV with some wierd brake issues. I found what appeared to be a bad caliper on front passenger side, and replaced with a new one, yet this same wheel continues to seize up. What is...


If the caliper is seizing and it is not the caliper it is the module that controls how the brake fluid is distributed. I don't have my book in front of me at the moment but when you look under teh hood on teh drivers side you will see a block that has the brake lines coming out of it. That is part of teh ABS system is one is installed and is a master brake control hub if it ABS isn't installed. being that new I would assume it was equipped with ABS. There are a couple of ways you can test if this is teh problem. If I remember correctly the MPV brakes with all 4 brakes, that means you can, as a temp test, switch the lines to see if the caliper problem changes to the different caliper. If it does then you know for a fact it is that unit and not the caliper. Also, something to consider, the caliper that is locking maybe locking because the problem is actually the caliper on the opposite side. If the caliper on the left front is stuck in the open position, on occasion that will cause too much fluid pressure to the right front giving you the impression the problem is the right side and it isn't. This is rare but certainly a possibility. As a general rule you should always replace Calipers in pairs. If you replace the right front you should replace the left front, same with the rear calipers.

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97 Chevy Suburban. Front left brake caliper apllies brake pressure but will not close when pressure to the pedal is relieved. We replaced both calipers (drum brakes on back) but the problem is still there....


i would have to say the master brake cylinder is at fault. there are ports in the cylinder that allow fluid back into the reservoir. these ports may be clogged. or the brake hose/line is clogged. have you changed the brake hose?

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Pulling in left rear and brake and rotor used up faster than all others


Possibilities.
1. The Caliper is sticking open, causing the friction which equals the pulling; and the brake pads and rotors to be eaten frequently.
This means:
a. The Caliper is faulty.
b. The Brake Line Hose (if so equipped) going from Brake Line to the Caliper is faulty.
A. To Check which one is faulty:
B. Raise and Support properly the rear of the vehicle.
C. Remove the tires from both sides.
D. Inspect the brake springs and brake pad retainers (if so equipped) Missing or improperly placed springs and/or brake pad retainers (if so equipped) could possibly cause this also.
E. Using a 6-inch (or larger) "C"-clamp, place the top end of the "C"-clamp onto the back of the caliper. Do not place it on the Brake Line/Hose or the Brack Line connection to the Caliper. Place the screw end of the "C"-clamp onto the center portion of the outside Brake Pad, but not touching the Caliper Housing. Begin screwing-in the clamp, this will move the Brake Pad in, and push the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore. If this is difficult to do, then that is your first sign that the Caliper is "sticking open".
If you are not sure how easy or hard this should be: Move to the Right Side of the vehicle and Clamp-in the right rear Caliper to get an idea of how easy/difficult it should feel. Compare the feel.
If the Left Rear Caliper is difficult to reset:
(1) Place a tight fitting Hose over the nipple of Bleeder Screw, located on the back of the Caliper. Do not cover the nut sides.
(2) Loosen the Bleeder Screw until fluid starts coming out.
(3) Reattempt to Clamp-in the brake.
(4) If it is now alot easier to Clamp-in, then it is the Brake Line Hose going from the Brake Line to the Caliper that is most likely faulty.

The Brake Hoses wear out on the inside, causing "gate-like" frayings. The fluid can flow out to the Caliper, but once the Brake Pedal is released these "gates" close, not allowing the fluid to return-out of the caliper. The Caliper maintains pressure on the Rotor causing the pulling of the vehicle and the wear-and-tear of the Rotor and Pads.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information, problems, or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!




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2 Answers

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