Question about 1992 Jeep Wrangler

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Bleed Clutch @ slave cyl.

Please discribe the process.
Thank you

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Most clutch and slave cyinders bleed by constantly working the clutch pedal. its tiring and can be a long process. Also keep an eye on the fluid level because u are trying to remove the air in the line and not let additinal air in.

What i have done before is pump pedal slowly aboout 10 times then check the fluid level and add if needed. repeat untill the level does not need to be topped off again. Best done with 2 ppl as u can rotate the pedal pumping duty.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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What is best way to bleed slave cyl


please go to www.automecanico.com and translate this website with your browser this amazing sites. and fix it.

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There is still air in the system. Try bleeding the m/cyl first by removing the line to the slave cyl and while holding you finger over the opening have someone gently operate the pedal. When you get good fluid past your finger reconnect the line then bleed the slave cyl. as normal.

PLEASE RATE THIS REPLY FOR ACCURACY

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you will probally have to bleed out all of the air from the system.its done almost the same way as bleeding the brakes. Good Luck.

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The problem is the clutch stays of the floor. I have been told to change the master and slave and I've been told to bleed it. What do you recomend?


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Changed clutch but unable to bleed the slave cylinder. Does that mean clutch master cylinder is bad? Got one from parts store but can't figure out how to take the clutch safty switch off to change it. Any...


Probably not. Bleeding clutch slave cylinders is tricky because you cant "pump it up". The master cylinder has no static valve so the best way to bleed the slave cyl. is to use gravity. Fill the master cylinder reservoir and open the bleed valve on the slave cyl. Allow fluid to drip into an open can until there's no trace of air. Close bleed valve and try clutch. If still no pedal, repeat the process. This is quite an acceptable procedure.

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You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

(If you keep the master cylinder full of hydraulic fluid, sometimes gravity will cause the line to 'self bleed' if the bleed nipple is left slightly open for several minutes at the start of the bleed process).
When fluid appears, finish the slave cylinder air bleed in the normal way.

If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).

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slave cyl is sepreate from master cyl you have air in the clutch hydraulic system replace slave and inspect clutch master for leaks on drivers floor board area pull carpet back and make sure to bleed system properly!!!!!!!

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hi the clutch on accent is hydraulic operation so if pedal is very low on disengaging clutch ? you may have a problem with the hydraulics 1st thing to check is fluid level? this is the reservoir that feeds both brakes and clutch but is seperaterated inside if fluid low? top up and bleed the slave cyl however if fluid low indicates a leak ? possibly slave cyl? if no loss of fluid ? then prob may be fault in the master cyl ? check fluid come back with any update please ps if this problem has just occured? check for leaks ?

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hi from the uk the fact your clutch fluid was low? indicates that you have a leak most probably the slave cylinder ? this is the one at g/box that works clutch or the master cylinder this is the one at pedal ? if either cyl leaks then air also can enter the system so look around each cylinder for leaks? if vehicle is needed then for now you will need to bleed air from the slave cyl bleed nipple i suggest you open bleed nipple 2 or 3 turns then remove cap from reservoir flui will emit from nipple eventually in a constant flow then close nipple and top up res then try pedal by pumping? may improve?? but if not then best advice is if leak is from slave cyl? renew it then bleed as above? ps if leak is actually from master cyl? dripping inside near pedal then change both cylinders it is easy d i y job i am sure you can overcome hope this helps? you can try for parts at local motor stores not necessarilly the dealers? and save $$$$s in garage costs? don't forget a bottle of new fluid? for bleeding

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Bleeding clutch slave cylinder


i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

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