Question about 1990 Dodge Spirit

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Tested alternator but still not charging battery tested all wires and connectors between nothing is coming back as wrong, used multometer to test wires

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  • Master
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How old is the battery if more than three years i"d suspect it has a bad cell.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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  • Dodge Master
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Try cleaning all your ground spots between the alternator and battery. Start by making sure the alternator and where it connects to the engine are clean and shiny. Make sure the ground strap between the engine and body is good and clean up the ends. Also clean the battery ground to the body and at the battery terminal.
If you want you can attach a separate ground wire to a mounting bolt on your alternator and run it to the frame or battery if you are having trouble with the other grounds. Hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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1 Answer

Alternator problem


Did you test the main battery connection on the back an at the connector . You don't say what make , model or year vehicle . A lot of makes are computer controlled an will set diagnostic trouble codes . You could have a blown fuse or fusible link depend on the make . Looking at a wiring diagram will show B+ voltage hooked to the alternator . Video's on youtube , voltage drop testing the charging system .

Mar 06, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I bought a new alternater and battery the alternater isnt charging the battery what else could be wrong


You have to check for B+ voltage at the heavier gage wire on the back of the alternator , could have a blown fusible link , plus the smaller gage wires at the connector that plug into the alternator mite have B+ voltage as well . You could look at a wiring diagram , that would show you . http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html .Plus watch Test and troubleshoot your charging system Battery alternator testing

Jan 11, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Why would the alternator test good off the truck but not charge


check the wiring on the vehicle to and from the alternator. Usually, the alternator needs excite voltage or it won't charge. Also, There is a circuit from alternator to battery, if something wrong with that circuit, the battery won't be charged even though the alternator is working fine.

What is model year? I don't know if your alternator is computer controlled?

Jul 11, 2015 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What would cause the battery gauge on a 93 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo to bounce between 14v and 9v. this is also running the battery dead and not charging the battery back up.


Several things need to be checked before an accurate diagnosis can be made, however in general it is most likely your alternator going out OR a bad connection in your alternator/charging circuit wiring.

It's also important to test/verify that you have a good fully charged battery (with no dead cells) before any tests of the charging system. An alternator needs ample battery power into it before it can produce good charging voltage and amps out of it and back into the battery.

If you test the voltage directly out of the alternator's output post/connector (with the output wire disconnected), you will be reading direct alternator voltage output, which should be approx 13.5 to 14 volts, steady. If the voltage is at ~14 volts, then suddenly cycles down to 9 volts (or anything less than 12 volts), then you have a defective alternator.
If the alternator, while isolated, tests out at a constant 13.5 to 14 volts, then the problem is most likely a bad wire or connection in the charging circuit wiring.

There is also the possibility of the battery (how old is it?) shorting out internally, causing the voltage fluctuation. That's why I previously said you need to verify each battery cell is fully charged and good. You can usually test this with a battery hydrometer (if it's not a "sealed" maintenance free battery).

Nov 05, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1998 Ford Explorer 5.0 battery won't charge,


Probably because your Battery is Bad... Try Charging and LOAD TESTING our battery and then if the battery tests good, Test your Alternator and see if it is charging properly.

Maybe when you installed the New Alternator, you missed a connection or have too many wires on one connector... You have have to take some pics to see what is going on.

Apr 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My battery to my 84 chevy caprice is not charging. i got a new batery and altenator but it still wont charge.i have to jump it off to get it to start. i dont even know where the voltage regulator is...


the voltage regulator is built into the alternator,have you check the alternator connector for damage or corrosion check with a test light for voltage at the red wire that plugs into the alternator that is in the 2 wire plug connector as well as check the large red wire for voltage as this wire is the feed wire from the battery.you don`t say if this is a new or used alternator.if you have a voltmeter that is the best way to check for the proper amount of voltage at the test sites.the battery must have a minimum of 12.6 volts to start with higher is better.to test the voltage regulator need the engine running and you need a voltmeter to tell properly if it is working.at the back of the alternator their is a hole that looks like the letter D this is where you use something like a cotterpin and insert it into the hole you should feel a tab,push lightly on the tab and ground the cotterpin to the side of the alternator using the voltmeter you should see the voltage start to rise and hear it start to charge.the battery voltage and the feed wire at the alternator as well as the smaller red wire at the plug connector should be the same.charging voltage should be about 14.5 volts.

Mar 02, 2011 | 1984 Chevrolet Caprice

1 Answer

My engine died. There in no power anywhere. I suspect a short circuit somewhere. No lights, no nothing. I disconnected the negative from battery and tested with a v-meter. There is continuity between...


Leave the battery disconnected and charge it for about 8-hours with a low-rate charger. Make sure all switches are off, then tap the battery cable back to the post--if you get bright flashes/sparks, you will need to isolate various sections of the wiring by removing fuses and remove the heavy wire going to the alternator. Once you get it to where there are no sparks, push the connector on to the post (but don't tighten yet), start replacing fuses and wire connections one at a time until you find one that sparks--that is the circuit that you need to trace out. If it is the alternator wire, have the alternator tested at an auto parts store. If you got no reaction when replacing the negative cable to the post after charging, a switch may have been left on thus draining the battery. Hope this helps!

Jan 22, 2011 | 1998 Honda Passport

1 Answer

System not charging.....brought alternator in, tested out to be fine, bought a new battery and still the system is not charging running out of answers...please advise thank you


Take a 12v test light and punch into the wire(red &black wire) leaving the alternator. Do it with the engine off first to establish which wire is going to the battery since they are a little hard to see the colors. Now repeat the same test with the engine running. The light should get brighter. If it doesn't disconnect the connecter and touch the light on the terminal coming out of the alternator on the same side of the wire that you tested. Doe the light get brighter, if it does try replacing the connector and also if everything test good there, go to battery where the red and black wire comes from the alternator and disconnect it from the battery and check for continuity between this wire to the alternator. If there isn't any repair the break or replace the wire.

Jul 03, 2010 | 1991 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

2003uburban not charging


make sure you have power to the back of the alternator and make sure you have power from the plug

Oct 22, 2008 | 2003 Chevrolet Suburban

3 Answers

Check gauges light comes on and voltmetr drops to zero.drains battery to the point engin will stop


The PCM has the voltage regulator inside it that controls the charge from the alternator to the battery, unlike older vehicles that have the voltage regulator directly on the alternator. Also there is a battery temperature sensor under the battery that the PCM uses to decide how much to send the battery. Possibilities; bad alternator, bad PCM, bad battery temp sensor, bad battery, and bad connections. Battery tests are easy check when fully charged should get around 12.5v then turn on headlights for 2 minutes and check again should still be around 12v. To test charging system start engine and test at bettery terminals should get 13-15v if not then something wrong with charging system take alternator to advance auto and they will test it for free if its good you are down to connections, PCM and battery temp sensor. test battery temp sensor at 75 to 80 degrees fahrenheit should get 9000-12000 ohms resistance (9k-12K ohms) if thats good check ground connections on vehicle body , connections on alternator, and plugs into pcm as well as the two above it (depending on model and year). If all that is good your PCM is bad get one on the internet preprogrammed for your vin number for $250 if you get one at the parts store it is $250 and then you have to get it programmed about another $80. You can also test the alternator your self by disconnecting the 3 tiny nuts and removing the connection from the field terminals (plastic piece with two terminals) and checking again at battery for 13-15v ( stay away from pulleys and belt,no loose clothing or long hair if you value your health). The PCM shorts the field connectors to regulate the voltage so removing that connector eliminates the PCM , battery temp sensor and the wire to and from them.

Aug 17, 2008 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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