Question about 1999 Dodge Stratus

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Bad bearing on a/c clutch - heater fan only on high

Bad bearing on a/c clutch

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Takes speicial tool to remove pulley replace bearing

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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My 1999 ford RAnger has heat but the fan makes alot of noise and does not blow out the heat and the trucks gauge will go hot. What would the issue? Heater core or mayb just the fuse?


Diagnose Cooling Fan Clutch On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy

TWO TYPES OF FAN CLUTCHES basic types of fan clutches: thermal and non-thermal (also called "torque limiting Thermal fan clutches have a temperature-sensitive bimetal coil spring on the front that reacts to temperature changes. When the air coming through the radiator is hot, the spring expands and opens an internal valve that reduces clutch slippage. This causes the fan to spin faster for increased cooling. As the air cools, the spring contracts and closes the valve. This increases the amount of clutch slippage, allowing the fan to slow down and decrease cooling FAN CLUTCH OPERATION

The clutch consists of a fluid coupling filled with a silicone based oil. In the cutaway view at the left, the area between the teeth on the clutch plates is filled with silicone fluid. An internal valve opens and closes a passage between the main fluid cavity and a fluid reservoir. When the passage is open, fluid enters the clutch and makes the fan to turn faster. When the valve is shut, fluid flows back to the reservoir but doesn't return, causing the clutch to slip and the fan to turn more slowly.
The non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch doesn't have a temperature sensing capability. It reacts only to speed, slipping to limit maximum fan speed to about 1200 to 2200 rpm depending on the application.

FAN CLUTCH PROBLEMS

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.
As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.
Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.
If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.
If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.
Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.
You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

FAN CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

Many experts say it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump if the water pump has failed. The reason is because both age at about the same rate, so if the water pump has failed, the fan clutch may also fail soon. As as we mentioned earlier, a high mileage fan clutch may be slipping excessively increasing the risk of overheating.
When you buy a replacement fan clutch, make sure you get the same type (thermal or nonthermal) as the original. You can always upgrade from a nonthermal to a more efficient thermal fan clutch, but never the reverse. Or, you can get rid of the fan and clutch altogether and install an aftermarket electric fan kit to cool the radiator.

Sep 28, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My heater is making a loud, roaring noise when the fan is turned to high.


This can be trash in the fan, broken blades, or bad bearings in the fan. If your car or truck has easy way to remove the fan motor, pull it to see the issue.

Mar 22, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

The fans do not work and the vehicle starts to over heat


With mechanical fans, most overheating problems are caused by a faulty fan clutch - though a missing fan shroud can reduce the fan’s cooling effectiveness by as much as 50 percent (depending on the fan’s distance from the radiator), which may be enough to cause the engine to overheat in hot weather or when working hard.

Defective fan clutches are a common and often overlooked cause of overheating. The shear characteristics of the clutch fluid gradually deteriorates over time, with an average loss in drive efficiency of about 200 rpm per year. Eventually slippage reaches the point where effective cooling is no longer possible and overheating results. (On average, the life of a fan clutch is about the same as a water pump. If one needs to be replaced, the other usually does too.)


If the fan clutch shows signs of fluid leakage (oily streaks radiating outward from the hub of the clutch), spins freely with little or no resistance when the engine is off or wobbles when the fan is pushed in or out, it needs to be replaced.


With an electric cooling fan, check to see that the fan cycles on when the engine gets hot and when the air conditioner is on. If the fan fails to come on, check the fan motor wiring connections, relay and temperature sensor. Try jumping the fan directly to the battery. If it runs, the problem is in the wiring, relay or sensor. If it fails to run, the fan motor is bad and needs replaced.

Hope help with this.

Mar 12, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan

3 Answers

Fan at radiator of cherokee is loose and banging


No it sounds like you have a bad water pump..

Feb 03, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

The fan on my 04 trailblazer wobbles/knocks. Its not the


CHECK TO SEE IF FAN TIGHT TO THE CLUTCH IF YES YOUR FAN CLUTCH IS BAD.REPLACE IT.CANT REPLACE BEARING.

Jan 31, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

2 Answers

AIR CONDITIONER QUIT WORKING


Pop the hood, start the vehicle and turn the AC on. Watch the compressor, it should have a center that rotates on an off and you should hear a clicking sound. This is the compressor clutch you are looking at. If the compressor is not doing this, check the fuses for the AC. If the fuses are good, then most likely the high side sensor switch is not working, therefore the clutch never engages and the air never gets cold.

Try that and get back to me, ok?

Sep 18, 2009 | 2003 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Are there bearings in the fan that can go bad? how hard is it to replace the fon or said bearings


The fan clutch does have bearings but it is not usual for them to go bad. Rumbling in that area is usually the water pump or the idler pulley. Use a mechanics stethoscope to determine where the noise is coming from.

The fan clutch is a tricky repair if you are a novice. The fan shroud is the biggest problem, it's one piece, THANKS GM. I remove the fan after knocking the fan clutch loose. Then I remove the upper radiator hose, the tranny cooler lines from the shroud, and then i will remove the fan clutch.

To remove the clutch the shroud will have to be lifted upward. There is a plastic shield on each side of the shroud that has to be let loose(not removed). Then lift the shroud up passing it by the radiator hose area and lifting the other side higher. You do not have to pull it out. just lift it high enough to get the clutch out. There is a wire harness on it that you can hang on to to help lift out the clutch. Be careful not to bang it off the radiator.

Aug 08, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

A/c heater fan noisy and only works on high


Sound like you may have 2 problems. It only working on high is probably the switch inside and will have to be replaced. The fan being noisy is there could be something in the duct where it sits or the bearing could be bad in it and it will need replaced.

Jun 19, 2009 | 1991 Ford F150

2 Answers

Heater/ac only works on high...and on high it's extreamly noisy


sounds like relay to me but what blew it, most likely dry bearings on blower motor causing your noise clean oil fan motor install relay

Dec 27, 2008 | 1996 Chevrolet K1500

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