Question about 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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How do u replace the front rotors on a 93 2wd ranger, need to know how to do the wheel bearings etc.

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In order to replace the front rotors, you first jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on the rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!

Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.

Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!

Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!

You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!

Clean the spindle meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings in a couple of months. Use new bearings when putting it back together, this ensures everything is clean and freshly greased.

You will need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.

Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.

Slide the new on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.

Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.

Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.

Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.

Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.

Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

  • bulldogchief
    bulldogchief Nov 10, 2009

    There are two bearings on teh front wheel, an inner and an outer bearing. Changing them is not hard if you are mechanically inclined. What you do is, jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on teh rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!

    Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.

    Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!

    Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!

    You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!

    Clean the spindle and the rotor meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings again in a couple of months.

    Now, you need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.

    Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.

    Slide the rotor on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.

    Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.

    Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.

    Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.

    Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.

    Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!

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You did a pretty good job with the instructions. but you left out all the little tricks to make the job easier. one to get the caliper off you have to knock out two pins they call it. really they are two pieces of angle metal with rubber in the middle. you have two options one go on and buy two to replace them with and beat them out how ever you can. two get a good long punch and a ball ping hammer and tap the bottom till you get the knot at the end moving toward the engine then the top. to be truefully there is change you will still destroy it. oh sorry before you do this you need to open your hood take the cap off your brake fluid fill tank. get a good c clap and compress the piston back into the caliper. now once you get the piston compressed and pins out take the caliper and piece of string or the best thing would be wire and tie it to the coil. now take an old screw and hammer and tap the cap off the rotor. now from here he give good instructions. though on the washing off the rotor i would get a gallon of diesel in a bucket and an old rag and get the trash and old gease off. but make sure you spray the rotor off with brake cleaner and wipe with a clean rag once you get the bearing and cap back on. now put caliper on then the fun part you may get luck and not have to bleed the brakes. if you have a hand pump it will make it easier.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

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