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Brake master cylinder letting in air at pedal

Renault megane scenic brake master cylinder letting in air at pedal there is a little moisture on the rubber gator under the pedal. brakes work fine and resevoir doesnt go down is there a seal at pedal end that can be replaced or will i have to change whole master cylinder if so how? you can hear air escaping at pedal when you take your foot off the brake

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Replace vacuum boost 

Posted on Oct 04, 2009


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1 Answer

Renault megan. Intermittent loss of brakes, then pedal goes hard

Make sure the emergency brakes are back off and adjusted after pad replacement. A lot of mechanics forget or don't know about this. Also check the master cylinder. Push on brake pedal hard and see if it sinks to the floor, if it does then the master cylinder is bad. If there is air in the brake system it is best to pressure bleed or vacuum bleed the brakes to get the air out. Often when using the two person pump the pedal and hold will not be effective in getting all the air out if a line is broken and then replaced. Amazon com Online Shopping for Electronics Apparel Computers Books DVDs... and Automotive parts!!!

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Jeep brakes

It is very difficult to diagnose this problem with the little bit of information you gave. If the brakes are drum brakes check to see if the brake cylinder is working and has no leaks, lift the rubber seals and make sure there are no leaks there, check the brake adjuster make sure that works okay. If everything works and you bled the brakes properly, then the problem is most likely is the master cylinder or the wheel cylinder.

While bleeding the brakes always make sure you check the master cylinder reservoir to make sure the fluid level is up so you do not get air in the brake lines. When bleeding the brakes did you have someone press down hard on the brake pedal hold the pressure on the brake pedal when opening the bleeder then push the brake pedal to the floor keep it there, until you tightened the bleeder, then pump the brakes up and hold it there, while you repeated the bleeding operation by opening the bleeder when the brake pedal go\'s to the floor keep the pedal down until you tighten the bleeder and then pump the brake pedal back up then check the fluid level in the reservoir, keep doing it until the brake fluid shows no sign of air.

If the brake pedal is pumping up during the bleeding process and you made sure you got all the air out of the brakes and then the pedal go\'s to the floor, make sure the fluid level is correct in the reservoir and the bleeder is closed tight and there are no leaks in the lines, wheel cylinder, brake cylinder the brake adjuster is working and master cylinder, and if you still have no brakes then it must be a defective piston in the wheel or brake cylinder, if there is a seal problem with the pistons you will not get any pressure to push the brake fluid. let me know how you are doing.

May 29, 2014 | 1990 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

When bleeding brakes the pedal doesn't go down after i open the bleeder screw but, fluid comes out?

It's bleeding by gravity. Here's what to do: you need a helper. Put a 2X4 or similar piece of wood or something under the brake pedal. Now have someone slowly pressing the pedal down, you open the bleed screw. When pedal hits bottom, have helper hold it there while you tighten bleeder. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of bleeder. Best practice is to put a small hose on bleed screw, and put end of hose into a small container partially filled with brake fluid, so the end of hose is submerged in fluid. When bleeder is opened, any trapped air in the system will come out as bubbles. No more bubbles, no more air in that part. Check brake reservoir, fill as needed, and move to next wheel. Never reuse brake fluid. Only brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid readily attracts moisture, and that is bad.

Why do I say a piece of wood under the pedal? This will protect your brake master cylinder from possibly being ruined while bleeding.
Were you to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, the push rod or piston in the master will travel beyond its normal movement. The inner seals then travel over a portion of the inner cylinder that never gets touched by the seals. Sometimes (often) a little layer of crud builds up there where the rod and seals never travel. Run the seal over that portion a few times and the seal will be ruined. Then you will need a new master cylinder.
Good luck. Oh, and if the master is ruined this way, you will know it quickly. Brake pedal won't hold, but will keep slowly going to the floor and little or no braking action.

Feb 02, 2014 | 1997 Geo Prizm

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My brake pedal sinks all the way down and won't come to a complete stop unless I pump the breaks. When I'm stopped at a light the brake pedal is fine at first but it will slowly sink down again. I'll pump...

There could be any number of things wrong from air in the lines to a leak of fluid. In any case you need to get the car to a mechanic as it loss of brakes is very dangerous.

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My Renault Megane has developed a brake fluid leak on the rear near side wheel. On inspection I see that when the brake pedal is pressed down some fluid leaks out from the bleed nipple. Should the bleed...

Most likely that is just a rubber dust cover, if the fluid is only coming from the nipple, it should be tightened.......gently. The main problem is that you may have been sucking air back into the system when you released the brake pedal. Tighten the nipple, have a confederate pump the brake pedal a few times holding it down on the last pump, then open the nipple a bit, making sure your helper does not let off the pedal, then close the nipple again. Check fluid level in master cylinder and repeat..

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1998 Suburan brake pedal gushes air along the firewall.

you got it, the booster is leaking reducing the vacuum to the intake, replace it

Oct 26, 2009 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

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I replaced my front pads ,master cylender, adjusted rear brakes and the pedel is better but still wont lock up the tires even if you press pedel to the floor all service was done by a pro mecanic help!!

has brake booster been checker out? has vacuum line to booster been checked? has the flex brake line that goes to the divider valve on rear end been checked to make it is free of obstruction?

Sep 18, 2009 | 1990 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Hissing sound from brake pedal of Renault Scenic 2001

From your description this appears to be a Brake servo issue.
The brakes are assisted by a vacuum created from the draw off the inlet manifold, it gives assistance too the brake pedal pressure by a large tank/cylinder mounted on the Bulkhead/firewall.
I feel that the sound you a hearing is air being draw into the Brake Servo from the foot pedal seal and the reason for fluctuation in the engine is the vacuum from the inlet manifold is being upset.
Attention I suspect should be addressed to the Brake servo/pedal seal or gaitor.
I hope this clarifies your thoughts?
Please remember to rate my effort.
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDSon(:0) {#><U.K.

Jan 22, 2009 | 2000 Renault 181

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