An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: electrical system not sending voltage to trailer...
Check the owners manual. There are usually different fuses for the trailer, brown-running, yellow-left turn/brake, green-right turn/brake. White is ground. Also try http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx. They have a great website with lots of info.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello Dewey, I can think of three reasons that could cause your problem. The truck pigtail is improperly wired, the trailer pigtail is improperly wired, or the trailer wires are contacting each other that they shouldn't.
Lighting control module ? ?????? Hazard / flasher module ! Now ( there''s not even an electrical signal where the fuse plugs into the interior fuse panel.) What FUSE ??????
The STOP LP 25 A fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open stop lamp switch. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts close and battery positive voltage is supplied to both the STOP 15 A fuse and the CHMSL 10 A fuse in the I/P fuse block, and to the turn signal/hazard module. The turn signal/hazard module then supplies voltage to both of the trailer rear turn/stop lamp supply voltage circuits. The voltage from the CHMSL 10 A fuse is to the center high mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) and the trailer jumper harness. The voltage from the STOP 15 A fuse is to the stop lamps, throttle actuator control (TAC) module, and the cruise control.
The backup lamp request signal is sent from the powertrain control module (PCM) to the body control module (BCM) on the Class 2 message system. This signal is based on the park neutral position (PNP) switch signal. The BCM supplies voltage on the backup lamp supply voltage circuit to the backup lamps and to the automatic day/night mirror. Voltage for the courtesy lamp supply voltage circuit and backup lamp supply voltage circuit is from the TBC B fuse in the instrument panel fuse block directly through the BCM to these circuits. A short to ground on either of these circuits will open the fuse. The backup lamps are grounded at G401.
For trailer wiring, a separate backup lamp circuit is connected through the underhood fuse block from the TRLR B/U 10 A fuse to the trailer wiring harness.
Turn Signal/Hazard Lamps
The IGN E 10 A fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the turn signal/hazard switch assembly. The FLASH 25 A fuse in the I/P fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the turn signal/flasher module and ground is supplied at G200. When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, a voltage signal is completed from the turn signal switch to the turn sign/flasher module. When the hazard flasher switch is activated, a ground signal is completed from the turn signal/hazard switch to the turn sign/flasher module. The turn sign/flasher module then sends an on-off voltage signal through the LT TRLR, RT TRLR, LT TURN or RT TURN 10 A fuses in the I/P fuse block to the appropriate turn signal or to all 4 fuses for hazard operation. The instrument panel cluster (IPC) indicators receive voltage from the LT TURN and RT TURN fuses as well as the DDM/PDM for the mirror turn signals. The DDM/PDM has no function or control of the mirror turn signals other that a pass through connection for the circuits. The audio chime is also activated when the turn signals are on. When the hazard switch is pressed, all turn signal lamps will flash including both IPC turn indicators. The front turn signals are grounded at G100. The rear turn signals are grounded at G401. The Mirror turn signals are grounded by the DDM/PDM.
Do you know how to do automotive electrical circuit testing with a test light or volt meter ? How to read an use a wiring diagram to pin point testing points . ( connectors , fuse locations etc... ) How to use a power flow chart ? Here is a site for just such info .
use a multimeter to check wires. you should get a voltage reading if your wires are good. check fuses. disconnect trailer harness and try checking wires from that point . if you have voltage you may want to check the wiring of the trailer harness to be certain it is correct. you may also want to check your ground to that side. if fuses are blown you have a short
The trailer lights on your van should be fused independently of the vehicle lights if you have the factory wiring. There is a fuse junction block under the hood [should be in the left corner somewhere] and in that you should find the fuses for the trailer lights and other functions. This is from memory but check fuses #5 and #6, [10 amps fuses] and see if they are blown. I could be wrong on the numbers so you might have to check them all. Usually its the trailer that causes these fuses to blow so if you find a blown fuse replace it and make sure it doesn't blow again by testing all the lights with the trailer unhooked. If that's ok then hook up the trailer and check again. If it blows with the trailer hooked up then you probably have a short circuit in the trailer wiring somewhere. Good luck, hope this helps!
ARE THE LIGHTS WORKING IN THE DASH ? IF NOT IT'S PROBABLY JUST A FUSE,I WOULD CHECK THE FUSES AND BULBS FIRST, THEN IF ALL ARE GOOD ,GET A TEST LIGHT AND CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE POWER TO THE WIRES, GOING TO THE LIGHT SOCKETS,IF NOT YOU WILL HAVE TO TRACE THE WIRES DOWN, IF IT HAS A PIGTAIL FOR LIGHTS FOR A TRAILER FOLLOW THE WIRES UNDER THE BACK AND SEE IF IT PLUGS BETWEEN THE HARNESS & THE TAIL LIGHTS, IF SO WHILE THE LIGHTS ARE OG WIGGLE THE CONNECTOR WHERE IT PLUGS TOGETHER & SEE IF THEY COME ON ,IF THEY DO YOU CAN EITHER TAKE THE TRAILER PIGTAIL OUT,& JUST PLUG THE HARNESS BACK DIRECT TO THE TAIL LIGHTS ,OR TRY CLEANING ANY DIRT AND GRIME OUT OF & FROM AROUND THE PLUG & PUT DIELECTRIC GREASE ALL OVER THE CONNECTIONS AND TRY THAT ,BUT IF THAT FAILS & YOU NEED THE TRAILER LIGHT PIGTAIL YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE IT.
i assume that you have a trailer light attachment installed at the rear of the vehicle somewhere around the tow hitch,turn on your head lights,obtain a volt meter and check D.C. voltage on the pigtail,ground the black lead to clean frame metal and check the pins on the plug with the red lead,one of them should be live 12v dc.that will be your trailer running lights,theother will be brake lights,you will have to have someone hold trheir foot on the brake to test it,dont assume the trailer is ok. verify voltage at the connector on the vehicle first,if you have 12 v,there the trailer has the problem,or if it hasnt been used in a long time the connector may need to be cleaned,as far as the fuse goes depending how it was installed,could be several choices,set your meter on continuity and check all fuses,you dont have to phisically remove each one,if you look close there are two small contact points on both sides of the amp rating number,most likely you will have two or three fuse panel locations,primary is under dash drivers side ,secondary panels and relays located in engine compartment under hood on fender walls black plastic box w/cover,,also may be on the sides of the dash board,can only see when the door is open ,or behind the ashtray in the center console,replace any fuses that are blown,be aware of the plug configuration on the car to the trailer,and that the ground wire on the car side of the plug is also the ground lead on the trailer connector, wires may have got mixed up during repair,happens to the best of us once in a while,clean ground connections are very important on trailers,old rusty wires and scerws should be removed wire brushed and reinstalled,or replaced if needed,then sealed with varnaloc,or spray paint,to protect them,hope this helps you.aloha from maui todd0708
sounds like a bad ground somewhere in the tail light system.......try removing one of the tail lights and if you jump the ground from somewhere on the body(preferably paint free) to the ground terminal on the back of the light pigtail (light socket) you should get proper operation.......another thought.......if you have trailer light wiring check to make sure its not corroded (green) Follow them under the box Some aftermarket wiring systems dont use weather proof plugs and they let the moisture in and cause bad connections.
You will need to get a 12 volt test light and check the trailer connector for a voltage signal to the trailer, it may also have seperate fuses under the hood for the trailer lights if the system is factory installed, federal law requires the 2 systems be isolated, if there are blown fuses find the short in the trailer before replacing fuse(s), with no exceptions the short is always in the trailer. Hint, check the fuses 1st.