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p0152 is bank 2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor code...make sure it was plugged back in or sensor may need replacement or you may have damaged the harness. p1564 is for the automatic speed control device basically the same possibilities with this circuit.
The cam and crank sensors have the same power wire. Go after that one. They also have the same ground, but other sensors connect to it also. So it's not the ground. And they have separate return signal wires. Not them either.
Code 13 is a problem with the intake air temp sensor. Code 15 is a problem with the idle speed control motor sensor circuit. Code 21 is a problem with the coolant temp sensor. And code 24 is a vehicle speed sensor fault. You would need to erase the codes and see how many come back again before you start testing components. Something may have happened to the engine wiring harness.
Based on what you said, the PCM is about all that is left. The code is for an intermittent problem with one of the two cam sensors. (intake) The PCM is loosing the signal at random times. It is possible a problem exists with the part on the cam that triggers the sensor, and low battery voltage to the PCM can do it. Nothing to do with the fuel system or the ignition.
There are 2 possibilities here: 1.- There may be a problem
with the new speed sensor, the electrical wiring between the speed
sensor and the PCM, or an internal PCM problem. To see if VSS signal is
present at the PCM a scan tool capable of displaying live data is
2.- There is a recall action on this model year for
erroneous speed sensor signals; the cure is an updated software
calibration. If your truck has not yet had the updated calibration
installed, you should call your local Dodge dealership with your VIN number and ask the service department to check
to see if there are any open recall actions on your vehicle. If the
software calibration has not been updated yet, they will perform this
procedure free of charge for you. If you do not have the current
software calibration in your PCM to correct the VSS issue, you need to
have this done before proceeding any further with attempting to diagnose
This sensor is located at the rear of the transmission.
Symptom: P-0720 LOW OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR RPM, ABOVE 15 MPH When Monitored and Set Condition: P-0720 LOW OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR RPM, ABOVE 15 MPH
When Monitored: Continuously with the key on, engine running, and gear selector not in park or neutral. Set Condition: This code is set if the vehicle speed (as determined from the vehicle speed sensor), is above 15 MPH, and the output shaft speed is below 60 RPM for 2.6 seconds.
POSSIBLE CAUSES DTC CODE RETURNS: OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR DEFECTIVE PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH CODE PRESENT OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND PCM DEFECTIVE (DRB SHOWS > 60 RPM) OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR HARNESS OBSERVABLE DEFECT OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT DEFECTIVE
Since you have multiple codes, I would check the wiring harness at the ECM. If you can get your hands on a pin out sheet for the ECM it would help emincely. Sounds like you are loosing power or ground at the ECM. This could be from the pins loosing contact or a wire could be broken. I have found wires that were broke inside the rubber coating. some days they work, some days they don't.
Repair as necessary. And for the pins you can pull the plug and use a paper clip or something small and push the female pins together alittle, it doesn't take much. Usually when I do the push the pins together, I just do them all, better safe than sorry.
something to do with a cam/crank sensor --either one or both are failing or a wiring / harness problem which can leave you stranded the sensors are not expensive if you remember the code you can look it up on line and find the explanation and how to change them
im having exactly the same problem with a 2004 pt. took it to a dealer they told me ecm, replaced it and still the same problem. i changed out the cam knock sensor and the crank sensor. same thing. if i erase the code it will run perferct for an hour sometimes then same thing, light comes on and wont accelerate, over 2000 rpm. weird. im lost, it makes no sence.
i think replacing the sensor is in order. i know all car makes have "recalibration updates" for the ecm and should be done, but have rarely fixed vehicles on just that alone. and your symptoms suggest the sensor could be intermittently bad