Question about 1997 Toyota Tercel

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Engine shut down on freeway. Good battery, low oil but engine not seized, start relay clicks, but when key turned, nothing-headlights don't dim, idiot lights don;t dim, Nothing. 1997 Toyota Tercel

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Low oil boiling water sometime automatically stop the engine for further damage. stop the engine wait for sometime. fill up oil/water. check fuse/switches for engine/lights/dimmer. re start.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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2002 chev impala will not start, will not crank over and lights will go out when i try and start it


Have the battery tested if no good replace. Check for power at the starter cable and then while someone holds the key in the crank position check for power at the trigger wire of the starter. If you have power but no crank or click then you may have a bid starter or the engine is seized. If no power on the tarter little wire which comes from the ignition switch make sure you fuses and relay is good and that your ignition switch is working. If the battery tests good have your alternator checked as well. The cluster may act erratic if battery is low or bad.

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Are the battery calbels clean and free of corrosion?

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The PATS security system would prevent the engine from cranking if the system does not "see" the right chip in your key. If the system is working correctly, the light should go off after you turn the key switch on.
You should have power on the small starter wire when the key switch is in the start position.

May 02, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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2002 chevy Tahoe. Was driving fine then gauges started flickering and low oil pressure light came on and lights dimmed. Vehicle shut down. Checked oil and was very low. Added oil and tried to start, just...


It's possible but unlikely. Still sounds like your battery is shot, and if so, jumping it may not work. First I would take it out and get it tested. If OK, your next step would be to check error codes (DTCs) with a code reader to see what's going on.

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How about corroded battery cables (internal)

Fusible Link wiring corroded & open circuit,does
everything electrical work except the starting circuit?

Turn key & have power to starter solenoid ?
Neutral Switch !
Ignition Switch !

Tough to guess without wiring diagrams,
to see where to start testing

Can't fix what you don't know you have

Oct 02, 2012 | 1990 Ford F150

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Take the starter off for testing. If the lights were normally bright, and went dim when key was in cranking position, it means the start circuit is working-battery power is going to the starter, but it won't do anything. The starter motor is probably bad.
Good luck.

Jul 14, 2012 | 2007 Honda CR-V

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Car will not crank and the timing chain is fine


Well, that's good, but even if the chain was broke, the starter would still be tryiing to start the car. Since your starter wont crank the engine over, your start circuit has a malfunction. Possibly the starter went out, so you need to have that tested for a malfunction. A simple test of part of the circuit is to turn the key to on.. Now your dash warnimg lights (oil, alternator, and check engine light) should be on. Are they on, and your gauges working? If not you have lost power to the ignition switch, so check your battery connections. If the key switch turns the dash on, then turn key to start. Do you hear a click from the engine area? If not, have the starter checked. If you do hear a click, or several clicks, then power from the switch is causing that click, probably at the starter. Turn the headlights on and observe them. Are they bright? If not, charge the battery up. If they are bright, watch them while a helper turns the key to start. If the lights go dim in start, probably a bad starter. If the lights don't dim, it could be a bad connection somewhere, like the battery or starter. Good luck

Jun 27, 2012 | 1999 Buick Century

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Is there an low oil pressure automatic engine shut


Ouch. This one doesn't sound good Adrienne. Sorry. No automatic shutdown for low oil unfortunately. 1.25 qt of oil isn't enough. Sure sounds like a seized engine.

Oct 31, 2009 | 2007 Chrysler Sebring Sedan

1 Answer

1987 F150 302 ci. EFI, Automatic, Was running good. Next morning NOTHING! Wouldn't start or crank over? Just clicking and buzzing, Headlights OKAY. Tried jump starting... NO GOOD. Took battery in... Was...


try over riding the starter relay on the fender ,it has one there right?. dont go to a mechanic yet. the engine aint seized. if it doesnt have this relay then i would get the alternator tested. if you want to test it yourself it can be costly for the right equip. autozone usually tests for free. i dont know were you live so if theres not an autozone. let me know if you cant get it tested.

Feb 22, 2009 | 1987 Ford F 150

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