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con rod bolt tension is 55-60ft/lbs
crank shaft main bearings is 80-85 ft/lbs
fly wheel bolts95-100 ft/lbs
crank shaft pulley nut 94-123 ft/lb
head studs tension 80-95 ft/lbs working in a spiral direction from no 1 stud directly in the centre of the head. Pull down in 10ft/lb increment starting at 20 ft/lbs
valve clearance is .010" both valves cold but after warming engine and re-tensioning the head studs re set valves to .012 both valves
injector retaining nuts tension12-17 ft/lbs
The site rebuiltcrateengines.com is a good resource for finding out everything you need to know to replace an engine. and if you need a good auto tool you can click here: diyobd2.fr
Failure of head gasket between cylinder head and block.
Because oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure, oil will creep across poor sealing area of head gasket from
the oil riser drilling that feeds the cylinder heads cam assembly's.
Worst case scenario would be a cracked cylinder head/s. No totally unheard of but rare.
Continued oiling of the coolant system will rot out the coolant hoses from the inside to the point they will burst.
Due to the year of this engine it may be prudent to find a used engine with less miles and swap it out.
no/loss of compression can be from a few different problems blown piston/piston rings[fix rebuild engine and replace piston parts ]camshaft flattened lobe [replace camshaft]valves burnt/bent carbon build up [remove head and repair/replace valves ] valve springs weak/broken[repair or replace ] head itself cracked [replace ]these are some of the reasons that u can loose compression if ur guy did compression test and determined its the head[valves ] then replace head if car is worth fixing then fix it good luck
It sounds like it's actually burning the oil, rather than leaking it then, I'm assuming that your usage is a lot more than the drop you mention. The entire car has 234k on it? (or did you mean just the trans?) With that many miles I wouldnt be surprised if your valves are letting a little oil slip into the combustion chamber. If the usage is bad enough, it may be time for a valve job, or even a rebuild.
If the timing belt has broken it's more than likely you have some valve damage. Not the end of the world. Options are...Head overhaul, inc valve replacement.£££££££££ Or find a complete Cylinder Head in a breakers yard and swap.
If it's the org. engine it will has over 160,000 miles on it. It's normal to has valve stem seal/oil seal on the head to leak oil into the cyclinder on high mileage engine. The smoke you see is the motor oil drop from the valve stem seals. The oil drops land on the top of the cyclinders and it create black smoke at start up. The inexpensive fix is to start using high mileage oil with seal conditioner. This will help soften the rubber seals and help reduce internal oil leak.
The correct fix is to wait until it's time for a head gasket replacement and let the professional CRC/service the head. Complete head service is the only method to stop this internal oil drip problem.
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