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I am having similar problems with my 1983 fuel injected starlet. I have burnt through a replacement alternator, and bought a new battery(not to mention tons of other mechanical work trying to restore the car). The pros are telling me it could be the charge light relay, which is hard to find, but if the plug on the alternator with the "L" marking for light is supposed to have less than 12 volts running through it, while the other two prongs are supposed to have full charge. On my car the "L" charge light prong has no voltage going to it, while tho others are at 12 volts. I did the testing with a FULLY CHARGED battery, an undercharged battery can also short out the alternator, I am told. Trying to learn what to do, still no luck I am afraid to install the new alternator and it tested good.
there could be a horn relay bad, if your car is so equiped or the horn button could be bad. wiring could be bad or the horn itself. if you can jumper 12 volts from the battery to the horn, you can eliminate the horn.
Might 1st Check to see if the Fuse that goes to Your Tail Lights is Good.If Not Replace it.If that does'nt WorkTake the Rear Red Lens off and take a 12Volt Tester After Removing the Bulbs and Check to see if you have 12 Volts Reaching you Tail Light Bulb Sockets.And make sure they are Grounded Good.If the sockets for the Tail Lights have 12 Volts to Them ,Replace Thye Bulbs With New ,Hopefully this Solves Your Problem. From The WYOCWBOY
Finding the room to mount it is the hardest part depending on the type you buy. You will need to test fit it into a few different positions until you find the right spot. Best not to point them into areas they will get wet or too much air pushing into them. They can be mounted in pretty much any direction.
The easier way is if you eliminate your original horn, and hook the 12 Volt power supply from the original horn, to the Air pump that will come with your horns, or that is attached to the horn. If you have to extend the connecting wire, make sure you have a secure connection at both ends
To have both horns, you'll need to install a special switch from the interior to a Heavy Duty 12 Volt relay in the engine compartment that you install, the relay will need to have amperage high enough to match the horns requirements, then connect it through a "Fused" circuit from the battery.
They usually put those instructions on the package.
That's it. You press the horn switch, it energizes the pump & instantly provides an air horn sound.
Check ALL the fuses with a 12 volt test light.
Change all that are burnt.
Also.....check the wire going to the horn (at the horn) with your 12volt test light if the fuses are good.Have someone push the horn button.
It might be the horn or horn relay that is defective.....not just the fuse.
I replace more horns than fuses.
Check the fuse for the horn.
Check the wires have not just come loose on the horn.
Next, if you have a volt meter, disconnect the horn, and connect the wire for the horn to the meter.
Have someone press the horn button.
If you have a reading of 12 volts or better, the horn is dead, if you have a reading of less than 12 volts, the the horn relay is likely faulty.
That is the item that is clicking as you reported. Just because it is clicking does not mean it is passing power through.
save yourself the hassle , buy yourself a momentary 12volt switch drill a nice clean hole on your driversside dash and re-wire your horn to it, all the screwing around you'll do to figure out why toyota makes cheesy horn contacts you could have your problem fixed..
on one side of the switch you should run a wire that is a 12volt switched + on the other side I would run another side run a new power wire to your horn leave your horns stock ground and just replace the HOTLINE ..
you could even go as far as installing a la cou ca racha horn to bring back that 70's Lowrider feel lol
Usually the wire from the steering wheel is Green w/Red and the wire to the horn from the fuse box is White. There is only one fuse, sometimes shared with the emergency lights. Check to see if there is power to the horn itself with a volt meter.
the horn is located behind the bumper, you will need a test light to
test for voltage at teh horn connections, if there is 12 volts at horn
connections, this means th horn is faulty.
if the horn is okay, check the horn relay - and if that is okay it could be the horn pad inside the car.
But it will most likely be the horn itself that is faulty.
Ask your local garage / mechanic if you are lost!!!