Question about 1995 Hyundai Sonata

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When Car Get Warm Cut's Out Won't Start Back Up For 24 Hour's

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Has the car overheated in the last 3 months if yes then your problem is the engine has lost the compression and that means that the engine has to come out and to be reconditioned But first check the pressure on the return feed to tank as if its not returning then that could cause the same problem..
And check breather on tank as it must breath ok
Let me know how it goes..........................Ron

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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  • First determine if it is fuel or spark
  • A weak fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, fuel tank emissions not working, no venting to tank.
  • If you find it is a spark problem follow this easy test for no spark, a weak coil will stop working when it gets hot. Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning? (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
    Broken timing belt or chain?

    Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil with key on ? (the small wires running to the coil, known as the primary circuit)
    If so then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
    Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
    Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
    If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
    No flashing signal?
    Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
    If they are good,
    It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
    With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
    If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


    If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
    Hope this helps, cheers

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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