Question about 1998 Ford Windstar

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There was a leak at the switch below the master cylinder on the front, not the switch for the level. I replaced the switch and its no longer leaking but the abs light and the red break light are on.

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Be sure your level is where it should be.

When you take lid/cap off your master cylinder, flip it over and check that the rubber boot inside the cap has not been "sucked: out of its flush and flat position inside the cap/lid.

If it has , push it back so it is seated proberly ainside the cap/lid.

Additionally, it is important that after any brake repair work involving leaks, that the braking system has been bled out.

If there is air in the system, those lights will stay on.

Lastly..after the above is done..disconnect your battery cables from your battery for a short period of time.

By doing this, upon reconnection, all your vehicle sensors will do a auto reset..hence bringing your abs sensor out of its fault mode.

Alternatively, you can just pull the fuse /relay responsible for the Abs circuit, but you should never reinsert a fuse while the vehicle is "powered up".

At bare minimum, diconnect your negative battery cable while doing this.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Make sure the fluid level is good also make sure no wires got disconnected or damaged

Posted on Oct 02, 2009


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No pressure in the brake line

When the master cylinder [just below the plastic reservoir where you added the fluid] goes empty, air gets in it. Since air can be compressed [unlike liquids] the system does not generate any pressure. You may have to bleed the entire brake system to get the air out. Before you go to all that trouble, there is a short cut you can try. Have someone watch the fluid reservoir [with cap removed] for air bubbles while you gently press the brake pedal about 1/2 way down and release it. This will allow the air trapped in the master cylinder to escape upwards. Repeat until no bubbles are seen in the reservoir and you have a firm pedal. This trick may require up to 50 pumps of the pedal. The truck must be on level ground or with the front of the truck slightly above the rear.
Did you find any brake fluid on the ground? Is so, you must fix that leak. If no fluid was found on the ground, then the leak is the rear seal of the master cylinder. The fluid gets sucked into the power brake booster [big, black metal can behind the master cylinder], then into the engine and out the exhaust. If this is the case, you need to replace the master cylinder to fix the leak. Follow the instructions which will come with the replacement master cylinder to "bench" bleed it prior to installation.

Nov 25, 2011 | 1999 Ford Expedition

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My 2001 neon's brake light just came on yesterday and will not go off. The brake pedal also goes almost completely to the floor, have to leave a lot of room to stop. Prior to the light coming on, I...

Check the fluid level in the brake resivior. It sounds like you have a leak. Check all the brakes and look for ruptured lines or a leaking caliper. If no leaks at the wheels and along the brake lines the issue would be the master cylinder or hydo boost unit.

Mar 05, 2011 | 2001 Plymouth Neon

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2001 mercury cougar, master cylinder ran dry because slave cylinder below is leaking at the firewall. I filled the master cylinder and tried bleeding the clutch at the transmission until fluid stream...

No, you don't need to replace the clutch itself.
Don't be surprised if the slave cylinder replacement doesn't fix it.
Could be the master cylinder.

Sep 12, 2010 | 2001 Mercury Cougar

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Brake pedal goes to the floor

possible leak in brake system. if not then you have a bad master cylinder. have to replace it.

Aug 30, 2010 | GMC K2500 Cars & Trucks

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Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...

Check the brake fluid it low or no brake fluid at the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

3 Answers

Brake wanring light is on. What does it mean.

could be low on brake fluid ?? one switch is on master,,,e brake switch is on the e brake arm,,,,

Apr 25, 2010 | 1995 Buick Park Avenue

2 Answers

Brake warning indicator lamp is on, brake pedal

Check for leaks under the car. Look carefully at the back of each wheel for dampness or wet areas that would identify where the leak is. If there is nothing evident, no spots on the ground where you park, etc, check under the dash where the master cylinder is attached to the firewall (INSIDE the car, not under the hood). Again, check for any evidence of leakage. If the master cylinder leaks, it can usually only be confirmed by looking under the dash, and because of the location, usually goes unnoticed. The fluid level may have gone down low enough to allow air into the system, which is causing the low pedal. Check this out asap, as this is too dangerous to drive. In an emergency situation, a panic stop wouldn't give you time to pump the brakes to stop.

Mar 25, 2010 | 2001 Ford Taurus

5 Answers


Check your brake fluid level in the reservoir; some Toyotas have wheel cylinder sensors; some Toyotas have master cylinder sensors; you also have a sensor on the parking brake and on the brake pedal inside the cab. Check all that.

Feb 14, 2010 | 1993 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

The brakes are still bleeding off even after replacing the master cylinder

check wheel cyls, check entire plumbing system for fluid leaks, also are you absolutely sure you have all air removed, did you bench bleed Master Cylinder before you installed it on vehicle.. on some units you will need to jack up the rear of the vehicle to level the master cylinder to get all air out successfully, if the vehicle is on level ground and you can see the the front of the MC is elevated from the rear of the MC , level it by raising the rear axle until it is level... but again preform a thourough leak check of all components to determine the most probable cause...

Aug 11, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

My 1990 Honda Accord is not taking gear

Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir - it is probably low. You will probably have to bleed the system (similar to bleeding brakes), the bleeder screw is on the slave cylinder on the front side of the transmission. If the level is low, you should also check for leaks in the system while you're at it. Leaks from the master cylinder show up on the inside of the firewall and floor below where the push rod comes through the firewall. Leaks from the slave cylinder should be fairly obvious on the flexible boot.

Jan 27, 2009 | 1990 Honda Accord

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