Question about 1994 Cadillac DeVille

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Starter doesn't work when engine is warm. There is no reaction when you turn the key unless you hold it firmly. Starter will not respond but the battery is fine .

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Sounds like the starter solenoid is going bad.Thats the classic symptoms.Replace starter.However there maybe an issue with the ignition at the steering column.Have ignition power tested at the starter solenoid.( put a test light to the solenoid post and turn the key to see if the test light comes on) If it comes on only when you hold the key firmly like you said, then there is an ignition problem at the column

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Check volts at starter while keying up.
try jumping starter solenoid out.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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I have a 06 Toyota corolla and have changed the starter 3 times but it still won't start. When I turn the key I hear a single click and a humming sound


Do the following:
- Clean the battery terminals with Luke-warm water, dry them with dry cloth and fix them firmly.
- Check the battery to engine ground wire. Remove the engine side ground wire and clean it with sand paper to provide a good contact. Replace this wire with a thick one to hold the current during starting. Also battery to starter wire should be thick enough to hold the current during starting.
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If nothing happens when you turn the key, the starter doesn't even try to turn over, then you may have a faulty connection on a wire near the engine that loses connectivity when the insulation is earned up and softened. The connection is reestablished when the wire cools and firms up. You will not be able to visually see the damage as it is covered by insulation. To locate the short, test each wire with an omh meter while the engine is warm. Does the engine warm up and then die while running? Or will it not restart once you kill the ignition while the engine is warm? If it dies while running, then you have a faulty ground wire. Try Replacing the ground wires from the battery to the chassis and the one from the engine to the chassis. Will take about an hour of your time and somewhere around $10. Don't run all your ground from the same connection.

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It's diesel. Diesel engines do not like cold, but that is normal. I am going to assume this engine has a start delay in cold weather to allow for Glow Plugs to warm up the cylinders before actually turning over the engine. I don't know about TDI's specifically, but I think a TDI Mech at your local Volkswagen dealer could confirm my assumption. They may call the parts something different, but the function will be the same. Sounds like normal operation for a diesel engine in cold weather...obviously, this would be why the engine always turns over immediately in warm weather...no need for the Glow Plugs to warm the cylinders. Best of luck resolving this problem.

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I love my Rangers, and it sounds like you need a new starter drive, better know as the bendix. It is cheaper to buy a new starter. As far as the door locks, I would get the starter fixed first and the door lock problem may go away. sounds like the starter is dragging the power down and could cause a number of strange thing to happen. Hope I have help you solve your problem. I think It will.

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1996 Toyota tercel doesn't start doesn't crank


Well you may have more than one problem.
As far as cranking, a mechanic would check for voltage at the starter and trace back to the key switch. The key switch could cause both problems. There is also a neutral safety switch that could cause it not to crank.
You could also have a bad ground connection between the engine and body.

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

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You can ensure that your car will start in the worst weather by keeping the engine or the battery, or both, warm.

You may want to consider a trickle charger for the battery to keep the chemical reaction working and an engine block heater to make it easier for the pistons to move freely.

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