Question about 2006 Dodge Caravan

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Brake pedel goes almost to the floor after replacing brakes, bleeding all brakes and had air in back brakes. Replaced master cylinder and brake pedal is spongy and goes almost to the floor.

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  • onegrumpyole Oct 02, 2009

    we already done what you said to do. could it be the power boost?

  • onegrumpyole Oct 02, 2009

    Everything you suggested has been tried. Do you have any other ideas?

  • onegrumpyole Oct 02, 2009

    The front brakes and rotors gave out on our 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan after only 35,000 miles. We replaced the all the pads and the front rotors and still had a spongy brake pedal. We bled allthe brakes starting at the far right and working our way to the front left. We could not get the are out of the back caliphers so we changed the master cycylinder and that seemed to get rid of the air problem but, the brake pedal still goeas almost to the floor. Any ideas what to do next?



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  • Dodge Master
  • 1,564 Answers

Believe it or not, there is STILL more air in the wheel cyclinders or the calipers. This takes a great deal of patience and time to get right. Try bleeding the rears without the engine running. This will be a little harder but you'll be able to hear your helper and vice-versa. Plus you'll be able to hear when the air from the lines is fully exhausted. Thanks, and best of luck, Dana P.S. the brake pedal will feel much firmer without the engine running, don't be fooled, you'll just have to push harder.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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  • Master
  • 353 Answers

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? (procedure listed below)
The Abs Hydraulic control unit needs to be bled with an abs capable scan tool.
Verify that you have a good source of vacuum to the brake booster.

Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair
Master Cylinder Bleeding
When clamping master cylinder in vise, only clamp master cylinder by its mounting flange. Do not clamp master cylinder piston rod,
reservoir, seal or body.
1. Clamp master cylinder in a vise.
NOTE: Use correct bleeder tubes when bleeding master cylinder. Master cylinder outlet ports vary in size and type depending on whether
master cylinder is for a vehicle equipped with ABS or not. ABS equipped master cylinders require the additional use of ISO style flare adapters
supplied in Special Tool Package 8822 to be used in conjunction with Bleeder Tubes, Special Tool Package 8358.
2. Attach special tools for bleeding master cylinder in the following fashion:
a. For non-ABS control equipped master cylinders, thread a Bleeder Tube, Special Tool 8358-1, into each outlet port. Tighten each tube to 17
Nm (145 inch lbs.)
torque. Flex bleeder tubes and place open ends into mouth of fluid reservoir as far down as possible (Fig. 47).
brake pedel goes almost to - 2ef35ed.jpg b. For ABS equipped master cylinders, thread one Adapter, Special Tool 8822-2, in each outlet port. Tighten Adapters to 17 Nm (145 inch lbs.)
torque. Next, thread a Bleeder Tube, Special Tool 8358-1, into each Adapter. Tighten each tube to 17 Nm (145 inch lbs.) torque. Flex
bleeder tubes and place open ends into mouth of fluid reservoir as far down as possible (Fig. 47).
NOTE: Make sure open ends of bleeder tubes stay below surface of brake fluid once reservoir is filled to proper level.
3. Fill brake fluid reservoir with Mopar brake fluid or equivalent conforming to DOT 3 (DOT 4 and DOT 4+ are acceptable) specifications. Make
sure fluid level is above tips of bleeder tubes in reservoir to ensure no air is ingested during bleeding.
4. Using a wooden dowel as a pushrod (Fig. 47), slowly depress master cylinder pistons, then release pressure, allowing pistons to return to released
position. Repeat several times until all air bubbles are expelled. Make sure fluid level stays above tips of bleeder tubes in reservoir while
5. Remove bleeder tubes from master cylinder outlet ports, then plug outlet ports and install fill cap on reservoir.
6. Remove master cylinder from vise.
7. Install master cylinder on vehicle.

Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair
Base Brake System
This bleeding procedure is only for the vehicle's base brakes hydraulic system.
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, thoroughly clean the cover and master cylinder fluid reservoir to prevent dirt and other
foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder fluid reservoir.
NOTE: The following wheel sequence should be used when bleeding the brake hydraulic system. The use of this wheel sequence will ensure
adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake hydraulic system.
- Left Rear Wheel
- Right Front Wheel
- Right Rear Wheel
- Left Front Wheel
NOTE: When bleeding the brake system, some air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as ten feet from the bleeder
screw (Fig. 1). Therefore, it is essential to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes to ensure all the air gets out.
The brakes may be manually bled or pressure bled.
Correct manual bleeding of the brakes hydraulic system will require the aid of a helper.
NOTE: To adequately bleed the brakes using the manual bleeding procedure the rear brakes must be correctly adjusted. Prior to the manual
bleeding of the brake hydraulic system, correctly adjust the rear brakes.
1. Pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
2. Push the brake pedal toward the floor and hold it down. Then open the left rear bleeder screw at least 1 full turn. When the bleeder screw opens
the brake pedal will drop all the way to the floor.
CAUTION: Just cracking the bleeder screw often restricts fluid flow, allowing only a slow, weak fluid discharge of fluid. This practice will NOT
get all the air out. Make sure the bleeder is opened at least 1 full turn when bleeding.
3. Release the brake pedal only after the bleeder screw is closed.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times, at each bleeder screw in the proper sequence. This should pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel
all the trapped air from the brake system. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder, so it stays at a proper level so air will not enter
the brake system through the master cylinder.
5. Check pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all the trapped
air. Continue to bleed system as necessary.
6. Perform a final adjustment of the rear brake shoes (when applicable), then test drive vehicle to be sure brakes are operating correctly and that
pedal is solid.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

  • Travis Mcilree
    Travis Mcilree Oct 02, 2009

    Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair

    Antilock Brake System


    The base brake's hydraulic system must be bled anytime air enters the hydraulic system. The ABS though, particularly the ICU (HCU), should only

    need to be bled when the HCU is replaced or removed from the vehicle. The ABS must always be bled anytime it is suspected that the HCU has

    ingested air. Under most circumstances that require the bleeding of the brakes hydraulic system, only the base brake hydraulic system needs to be


    When bleeding the ABS system, the following bleeding sequence must be followed to insure complete and adequate bleeding.

    1. Make sure all hydraulic fluid lines are installed and properly torqued.

    2. Connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector. The connector is located under the lower steering column cover to the left of the steering


    3. Using the scan tool, check to make sure the CAB (MK20e) or ABM (Mk25e) does not have any fault codes stored. If it does, clear them using

    the scan tool.





    4. Bleed the base brake system using the standard pressure or manual bleeding procedure.

    5. Using the scan tool, select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then BLEED BRAKES. Follow the instructions displayed.

    When the scan tool displays TEST COMPLETED, disconnect the scan tool and proceed.

    6. Bleed the base brake system a second time. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir periodically to prevent emptying, causing air to enter the

    hydraulic system.

    7. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the full level.

    8. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the brake pedal does not feel spongy.

  • Travis Mcilree
    Travis Mcilree Oct 02, 2009

    Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection



    1. With engine off, depress and release the brake pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the power brake booster.

    2. Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15 to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine. The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort

    should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST.

    If the pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC TEST.

    3. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line between the vacuum hose and the valve.

    4. Start the engine.

    5. When the engine is at warm operating temperature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the gauge. If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg

    (40.5 kPa) or more
    , the power brake booster is defective and must be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches Hg, continue on with

    this BASIC TEST.

    6. Shut off the engine.

    7. Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum reference port on the engine intake manifold.

    8. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.

    If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12 inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the

    booster has a restriction or leak.

    Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained, repeat the BASIC TEST.


    1. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line between the vacuum hose and the valve.

    2. Start the engine.

    3. Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature and engine idle.

    4. Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.

    If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa) in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the reading. The vacuum loss should be less

    than 1.0 inch Hg
    in one minute time span. If the loss is more than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If it is not, continue on with

    this test.

    5. Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.

    6. Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady. Do not move the pedal once the pressure is

    applied or the test results may vary.

    7. Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line pliers to the vacuum supply hose.

    8. Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe the vacuum gauge.

    If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa) in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the reading. The vacuum loss should be less

    than 3.0 inches Hg in 15 seconds
    time span. If the loss is more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake booster. If it is not, the booster is

    not defective.

    9. Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.



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