There's a white lever under the dash near the steering wheel. You can change from heat to cold with that instead of the knob! If you look under there you'll see it and just push it up for heat pull towards yourself for cold.
There is a buletin or some sort of thing that Mitsubishi released, and it outlines, what you have to change. The reason why it gets stuck is because 03 Lancers don't have filters on the blower motor inside the car. What you need to get is a some sort of mechanism for the white box that houses your heater core, you can actually see if you look under your steering wheel. Then you have to get a new cable since the one you have it's bent, and in order to keep this from happening you might want to get a filter as well, all you have to do is remove the glove box door, pop the plastic open and just insert the filter. But anyhow, im not a mechanic and im not 100% on what the things are called, but i talked to Mitsubishi and they told me what i needed, and then i actually went online and bought for there for half the price and installed it myself, works like a charm. hope it helps.
If replacing the linkage does not solve the binding problem, Mitsubishi technical service bulletin # 005-55-003 states that the blend door assembly inside the heater box is binding and needs replacing. This will require removal of the refrigerant from the A.C. and removal of the dash in order to remove the heater box. Not a job for the average DIY'er. I will be replacing the blend door assembly and the cam and linkage kit on my son's 2003 Lancer next weekend, but I am an auto repair tech with 38 yers experience.
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Sorry for your troubles ,
Temperature Hand in dash reading NORMAL ?
Does it Turn Blue to Red if so is do you feel friction or restraint like your turning something rather than freewheeling (smooth fast turning) or Digital and or does it show that it should be warm and not cold ?
Does the TEMP change at all(even the least little bit could narrow the results down) when knob is turned?
POSSIBLE - The Actuator/Motor that switches the VENTS very well could be BAD , Temperature Switch / Climate Control Switch (hot to cold could be broke at the base and only allowing the knob to turn and not in the switch ) Thermostat may be stuck open (keeping the engine running cool and smooth but no heat , maybe just a slight TEMP change when switched from Cold to Hot ). The A/C Switch is pushed in or turned on or broke and is stuck ON
FIXES - 1st- Check FUSES - If Temp HAND Reads Normal it not your THERMOSTAT. - Change the Control Switch / Temp switch - Check A/C Button/Knob . AUTOZONE is my place of business they PRICE MATCH AS WELL!
Hope this Helps , Flaming Ratchets Auto Repair
the control that opens the valve to let hot coolant to run through the heater core is stuck-the cables that move it are springing back and moving the knob back-find the valve under the hood close to the firewall on the passenger side-spray it with wd-40 and work it back and forth-or you may just want to replace it-cheers Denny
With blower on high and tempature to max heat check to see if you have good air flow in all mode selections (defrost, vent, floor etc.). If so and you still have no heat then check heater core hose going from engine to inside car to heater core with vehicle running and coolant tempature about half on guage. If both hoses are hot and coolant in radiator/overflow bottle is full then hot cold blend door is stuck in cold position. If coolant level is low you will get no heat, check coolant level first.
I can tell you about my experience on my 1999 F150. I do not believe it is the blower control switch because mine went out and only affected the fan speed. On my truck, in an incident like yours, I could not get a good response from the temperature switch.
I would turn the control and it would hit a stop on both ends, but the temperature would not change to match the switch. What I found is the stem of the temperature control did not turn because the knob cracked behind the switch. There is a half-moon shaped metal clip inside the plastic temperature knob. The clip can spin when the knob is cracked and nothing moves right.
Because the plastic knob has molded stops under the knob, from the drivers point of view, the knob was turning lock to lock. In reality, the stem was not turning. Try taking the knob off and turning the stem with pliers wrapped in cloth to protect the plastic. Then see if the temperature changes.
WELL TURN ON AC MAX COLD HIGH TO SEE IF COOLANT FANS TURN ON.IF NOT YOUR REFRIGERANT SO LOW THAT THE AC REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR WONT CLOSE CIRCUIT TO TURN ON COOLING FANS.MEANING YOU NEED HAVE AC CHECKED AND CHARGED.ALSO CHECK COMPRESSOR FOR POWER IF NOT YOU HAVE BLOWED FUSE OR BAD RELAY.IF FUSE AND RELAY GOOD YOUR AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL OPEN OR THE AC CONTROL SWITCH IS BAD.IF COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING WHEN YOU TURN ON AC YOUR AIR TEMPERATURE ACTUATOR NOT WORKING.
The heater control cable may have broke. you'll have to go under the hood and find the heater control valve located on one of the heater hoses. The valve is mounted to the firewall and has the other end of the cable attached to an arm. Manualy open the valve by moving the arm toward the firewall untill it stops. The other issue is the blower motor only operating on low. Normally if the transistor fails the motor only operates on Hi, so lets look at the switch. Unplug the white 6-pin connector from the switch and with a jumper wire jump pins1&3 black wire & blue/black wire. This bypass the switch asuming there is 12volts on the blue/black wire the the fan motor will come on high. If it does the switch is bad. If it doesn't the blower motor is worn out or you have a bad ground. it is common that the brushes wear out in the motors over 150k. try this tap test. with the blower motor turned on try kicking the blower motor.this will cause the brushes in the motor to temporary make better contact untill you can get a new motor. -hope this helps
The temperature control knob does control a cable, the valve is in a heater hose low on the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment. Check to make sure the cable is still over the pin on the valve and make sure the cable jacket is still clamped to the valve bracket. Also, pull the knob off the stem and make sure it isn't cracked such that it won't turn the metal stem sticking out of the dash. If all that is OK, check the cable by turning the knob all the way to cold, note the location of the lever on the valve, then turn the knob all the way to hot and see if the lever moved. Sorry, not sure how involved it is to change the cable.