Question about 2002 Jeep Liberty
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Use a #20 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws located on the inner side tail light assembly w/ trunk open.Pull taillight assembly straight back from the vehicle to get it off. You may need to utilize a wedge to gently work the top and bottom of assembly away from vehicle on outer side. If so, be careful to use a protective layer (such as a thin piece of cardboard) next to the body to prevent scratching the paint. A wooden kitchen spatula works with out scratching.Once removed, twist applicable light cover counter clockwise and pull to access lightbulb.You may want to apply a small amount of lithium grease to the two plastic stud holes before reinstalling the cover to make it easier to remove the next time.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
1-20amp-pwr outlet frt. 2-10amp-rear fog lights(export only)
3-15 amp-horn 4-10amp-hedlt low beam rt
5-10amp-hedlt low beam lft 6-20amp-bodycontrolmodule/pwr dr locks 7-spare 8-spare 9-10amp- rt pk lt /rt tail lt/trailer tow lt/cluster
10-spare 11-15 amp-flasher 12-15 amp-stop lts
15-10amp-pdc fuel pmp & auto shutdownrelays/skis
16-20amp-pwr outlet rear 17-15amp-rear wiper 18-20amp-radio choke relay 19-20amp-frt fog lts/trailer tow stop and turn lts
20-20amp-sunroof 21-spare 22-10amp-wiperswitch/frt and rear washer 23-10amp-lft park lt/lft tail lt 24-10amp-pdc blower motor relay 25-10amp-heatseatswitch/hvac controlhead/trailor tow battery charge 26-10amp-hedlt highbeam rt 27-10amp-hedlt highbeam lft
28-spare 29-15amp-heated seat module 30-10amp-heated mirrors/rearwindowdefrosterindicator 31-20amp-cigarlighter
33-10amp-skis/diagnostic connector 34-15amp-cluster/courtesy lts/radio/bodycontrolmodule/maplights/cmtc/underhood lt/vanity lts
35-spare 36-10amp-ignition run/start-orc/lft and rt siacm
37-10amp-ignition run only-orc 38-10amp-abs module/brake shift interlock solenoid 39-10amp-rear window defroster relay/flasher/backup lts
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
First does it have a belt ore a chain and most newer one recomend at like 60k ore 90. If got a chain it stretch and you will not get great gas milage but it will not break like a belt
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
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