Question about 1995 Mercury Cougar

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Transmission has recently 2-3 months started to slip out of second gear while other times while accelerating during a turn it catches second with a little chirp . Yesterday noticed a metallic ringing noise mostly at a stop and idleing. Today noise is louder and something is about to give . Is this the touque converter problem or drive shaft ?

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  • benardjeff Oct 01, 2009

    There is a harsh metal grinding noise which does not speed up during acceleration but does get louder . Not a sensor

  • benardjeff Oct 02, 2009

    Considering that I did want to take apart the transmission for failure sspots and I dont . I cracked open a Mazda manual tranny once and ended up getting one at a salvage yard for 200 bucks . Sounds more like what I can do . Change the tranny yes take apart no take to get fixed at aamco probably gonna cost more than a used one . The rattling noise sounds like its on the outside very distinct and loud with windows open . Can I continue to drive for a couple days ? Will it go away maybe ? Cost wise what am I looking at ?

  • benardjeff Oct 02, 2009

    Very helpful with labor and parts costs . Gave me a couple different avenues I could take . Thanks Super bovine

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  • Master
  • 333 Answers

It sounds like you have two internal issues to deal with.


I would not suspect an axle problem at all, as they are immobile while idling. Torque converter problems are typically no low speed acceleration, no high speed acceleration, or stalling the engine right before stopping. None of which are problems you describe.


The metallic ringing sound is indicative of a failed retainer inside the transmission. An internal gear failure would not be heard at idle.
There are large snaprings that separate the sets of discs inside the transmission. There is constant motion at these points, even at idle. Once there is a failure here, be it a snapring breaking or a disc failure, the damaged/broken material is then transferred through the transmission via the fluid system.


This is where your second problem comes in with the slipping out of gear/snatching gears randomly, particularly while pitching the vehicle. Once the debris finds its way to the valve body, it will create tiny temporary restrictions at your shift solenoids. It is likely you have a small (very small) piece of debris that made its way into a shift solenoid.

The next step, which I hate having to tell people, is to remove the transmission and open it up to find the failure point, then evaluate the situation from there. Depending on the failure as well as the mileage on the transmission, there are different paths to consider.

Please let me know if you need clarification on anything or additional questions, I'd be happy to help.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

  • Superbovine Oct 02, 2009

    There are multiple avenues.

    As you said, often junkyard transmissions can be had very cheaply. I have a local recycle yard that sells all engines and all trannys for $75, regardless of type.

    The installation labor is about 6 hours (around $500 or so at most shops).

    One upside to replacing the unit with a used unit is that most times the used unit will come with a torque converter as well. Your is likely full of debris and will require attention of some sort as well. Buying an overhaul kit will not come with a torque converter so you will be needing a serious cleaning or replacement TC if you overhaul.

    A brand new replacement from Mercury is $1799 (plus labor).

    To overhaul the transmission you are looking at about 11 hours (around $1000 at most shops) plus parts. Depending on the extent of the damage, your parts list could grow considerably.

    Many salvage yards will sell transmissions for a higher price but offer a considerable warranty. A local yard here charges ~$750 depending on application, but offers a one year warranty. These warranties will NOT cover the labor to replace their failed part however, so keep that in mind, it is strictly for the part cost.

    Regarding driving on it... if you are convinced you do not want to overhaul it and will be replacing it one way or another, then drive it, but know that you could potentially be stranded somewhere eventually. If you may end up overhauling it, do not drive it, as doing more damage will result in more parts required during overhaul.


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  • Master
  • 10,515 Answers

Hi,

This is not a Drive shaft problem. This car has been facing transmission problem since 1994.

No doubt, it can be Torque converter problem but usually it has seen that it's mainly if you have transmission slip in gear 4-5. I have rarely seen such issue with gear 2. BUT,

I have came across many cases, where it was an issue with control sensor. The above symptoms are the same for faulty control sensor.There is a technical bulletin, check below :-

Article No.
02-2-4
02/04/02
TRANSAXLE - CD4E - HARSH AND DELAYED 1-2/2-3
UPSHIFTS - AFTER TRANSAXLE OR TURBINE SHAFT
SPEED SENSOR (TSS) REPLACEMENT - POSSIBLE
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) 628, 642, 645,
646, 647, 648, P0731, P0732, P0734, P0741, AND
P1744
FORD:
1994-1997 PROBE
1995-2000 CONTOUR
2001-2002 ESCAPE
MERCURY:
1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
1999-2002 COUGAR

ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the CD4E transaxle may exhibit harsh and delayed 1-2/2-3 upshifts along with DTCs for gear ratio errors after the Transaxle or Turbine Shaft Speed sensor (TSS) have been replaced. DTCs may include OBD1 codes 628, 642, 645, 646, 647, 648, or OBD II codes P0731, P0732, P0734, P0741, and P1744
ACTION
If the condition occurred after servicing the Transaxle or TSS, refer to the following TSS Selection Chart and select the correct TSS for the vehicle application. Note that each TSS has the Ford engineering part number on it. Also note that there is a TSS kit that includes an instruction sheet, TSS sensor and correct bolt.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
If the condition occurred after replacing the Transaxle or TSS, use the TSS Selection Chart and determine the correct sensor for the vehicle.
1. Remove the existing TSS from the CD4E pump body.
2. Reinstall the original TSS sensor, if available, or install the correct TSS as indicated in the Selection Chart.
3. Clear all codes and verify repair.
4. If the condition still exists, follow normal diagnostics as listed in the appropriate model year Workshop Manual.
This needs further investigation. So, scan the codes and if you see any of the above mentioned codes, replace control speed sensor.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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