Question about 1996 Nissan Maxima

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At start up a noise or vibration best heard from inside car that lasts 5 or 10 minutes until engine warms up. Recent work on AC evaporator and valve cover gaskets. Balancer replaced in early January. Car has only 72,000 miles.

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Well...check items that are effected most by the heat of warm-up. The most common is the exhaust heat shields

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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What will be the problem if i have a taping noise when i start my car until it gets warm mitsubishi 380


A tapping noise that starts out cold and goes away when warm is usually caused by a valve lifter inside the engine. The lifter may be worn/leaking down and will be noisy until it fills with oil pressure. You can try an oil additive ( Lucas Oil Additive ) available at most part stores works very well with noisy lifters. Another noise that can happen cold and go away when warm is an exhaust manifold leak. However, this is normally a ticking type sound rather than a tapping sound.

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My 1991 Chevy Cavalier has just turned 100, 500 miles and has started acting up, went to ck my antifreeze and when i took the radiator cap off ( car is started) the antifreeze in the car was just sitting...


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IT may be that there is ice forming on the evaporator in the car. This prevents the ac from working as the thermostat setting is affected and the ac shuts down until the ice clears and the thermostat gets a new reading. Check that the ac evaporator core fins are clean and free of gunk build up. Some times you may be a clink sound as the ice breaks away and falls into the ac box

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Vibrating noise at 2-3 rpm during acceleration after car warm up.


Is there a way you can Clarify your Question? There is a lot of words that are not meaning anything.. Is 2-3 RPM an accurate comment or are you meaning 2,000 - 3,000 RPM ?

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What is the problem now? Please can you help?


If you turn on your AC on one day and nothing happens, you may be dealing with a major component failure. Your vehicle's AC system consists of a compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, a series of tubes and several fans/blowers. If either one of these components fails to do their job, it may result an entire system failure. For example, if the evaporator blower motor burns out, you will get little to no airflow through the vents.
Most modern vehicles also have safety mechanisms that may prevent a component from engaging if the pressure is low in the system due to a refrigerant leak. Refrigerant can leak for many reasons, including undone welds, loose connections, corrosion, physical damage from road debris, etc. Look for oily stains underneath your car, as they may indicate a leak. If you suspect a refrigerant leak, take your car to General Automotive. We will test the pressure and use special dyes to pinpoint the leak.
Warm Air is Coming Out Instead of Cold As you get in your car and turn on your AC, you probably expect it to be blowing hot air for the first minute or two until the system cycles through enough to cool it. But what if the air never gets cold ? Or maybe it it gets cooler, but not cold enough ? No, your car didn't get confused and turned on heat by accident. There is likely a problem with your condenser.
A condenser's job in a vehicle is to cool the warm refrigerant that was used to make the air cold in the evaporator. A condenser has coils and a fan to push the air through the coils and thus cool the refrigerant. If the condenser coils get dirty or clogged, or if the fan fails, the refrigerant won't be cooled completely, so the air will come out warm. It's best to take your vehicle to an experienced AC Repair professional to troubleshoot this problem if you don't know your way around under the hood.
Cold Air Blows Intermittently So you went for a road trip or a long drive, and after 30 minutes of driving realized that your AC suddenly stopped working or switched to blowing warm air. The cold air returns shortly, and the cycle repeats itself for as long as you are driving. What's wrong with your car?
Intermittent cooling is often caused by the components of your vehicle's AC system freezing up. Typically an iced over evaporator is the culprit. An evaporator covered in ice can't cool the air, so you would have to wait until the ice melts, which is why the cold air eventually returns. There may be numerous issues causing the icing-from a dirty cabin air filter to a blocked evaporator drain or an overcharged system. Look for puddles of water under your car-this could be a sign of a freezing problem.

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My Audi A4 2009 makes a rattling noise on cold starts which resolves in less than 30 seconds. Dealer says its an air pump. This doesn't seem correct. The noise comes from the front of the care. Does not...


READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

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During driving the transmission switches to neutral (Lexus RX300)


Your tranny need to be repaired at once. The tranny is slipping. Some Lexus owners do have the similar problem including myself.

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It is not a valve. It is the purg selinoid for the evaporator. It is a normal noise and will not cause any problems. I have the same issue on my 300C. They may have redesigned it on the 08 and newer to get rid of the ticking noise. Chrysler has had many complaints about this noisey selinoid

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Whistle noise when starting cold car


its proberly what they call a secondary air intake pump - what this does is increase the air flow only on cold start up - the colder it is the longer it stays on - if the noise gets louder and you will notice - get it changed - we have the same problem over here on the vauxhall omega and corsa's - bless em got to be GM

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