Question about 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

My front wheel where the bolts are gets too hot, is this normal?

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 4 Answers

Yes, when you get done driving it, they will be hot. this is from the heat that comes off when you press on the brakes & the are agains the rotor.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Should piston go all the way back where it is flush with piston outer housing?


Measure the thickness of the disc. It could be thin enough with the worn bads that the piston is coming out so far that it is binding in the bore.

Apr 23, 2014 | 2003 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

Lugg bolt removal


I am not sure if I understand your problem correctly. If the bolts are stripped on the outside (rounded off). They might have to be melted off with a welding torch. This is a common process actually. They put a cutting torch on the lugnut and get it so hot that it comes loose by melting it away. This is something I highly suggest having a welder at an auto body shop do.

Dec 23, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

How do i remove the oil pump


    1.Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels
    2.Raise the front of the vehicle, both sides
    3.Removes the front wheels
    4.Remove the both side ball joint bolts and lift the suspension of the ball joint using a steel bar or similar,
    5.Remove both inner cv joints from the vehicle
    6.Remove the battery and the plastic battery housing;
    7.Remove the air intake pipe
    8.Drain the oil from the sump
    9.Remove the resonator from the gearbox, hydraulic hose from the gearbox, reverse gear switch, speedo cable.
    10.Remove the two bell housing bolts on the top (next to the cylinder head). Take one bolt to a local tools and hardware and source the exact thread bolt but buy bolts that are approx 5/6cm longer - buy 5 bolts to be safe. Replace the two bolts removed with the longer ones.
    11.Remove the starter motor and power cables;
    12.Remove the bolt above the starter motor and insert a long bolt here
    13.Next remove all bolts mounting the sump,
    14.At the back of the engine (side where the manifold is) remove all bolts and insert one long bolt. Note none of the long bolts should be mounted into the oil pan (sump).
    15.Use a support bar to support the engine and gearbox assembly (I made one using a steel pipe and bolted this onto the engine strut bolts;
    16.Using a 17 socket and long extension remove the gearbox mounting (3 nuts), Lower the gearbox side of the engine so that the mounting bolts clear the engine mounting;
    17.Insert a large screw driver or similar between the engine and gearbox assembly and separate them (note most gearbox will separate itself);
    18.You will notice a +/- 4 to 5 cm space between but the gearbox and engine is still joined together by the longer bolts.
    19.Using a long 8mm "t" socket as shown below, insert this between the fly wheel and onto the sump bolt (x2) and remove them. Using a normal 8mm spanner / socket remove all other sump bolts. The sump can now be removed from the vehicle.
    20.[Information for using a 8mm special tool: note that the Gedore 8mm or similar will not work between the fly wheel and sump]. I had bought a cheap small 8mm socket {it comes 8mm, 10mm and 12mm in a three way small socket - cost about R12} I cut off the 8mm from this and joined a long steel rod to it and also a handle which made is a "special" T socket spanner, similar to the image below.
    Once the sump is off you will be able to remove the oil pump
    21.Install in reverse order as described above.

remove-oil-pump-j5ekklqbg0r4og3swv24qsbc-4-0.png

Dec 10, 2012 | 2005 Ford Bantam 1.3i

1 Answer

How to take passenger headlamp out of 328i bmw 2008 so it can be replaced?


2008 328i Passenger headlight assembly removal.

The headlight assembly is held in by 4 "star" bolts (size 25); 2 visible on the top of the assembly, 2 not visible or easily accessible.

The 2 bolts not so visible require that the front half of the wheel well come off and the front bumper or "nose" of the car.... The bumper is what needs to come off, but there are 2 bumper bolts hidden by the wheel well.

The wheel well is held in by 7mm bolts, 2 of which are actually bolted to the bumper on the bottom.

The front bumper is held on with 7mm bolts on the bottom edge, and star bolts, size 25, accessible on the top edge. (Hood open). Here were my steps.

1. Jack up the car on the side you are replacing, remove wheel.
2. Using 7mm socket, remove all the bolts to peel off the front half of the wheel well. With the wheel well out, you can see the 2 other star bolts holding the headlight assembly, but you can only remove one of them... even if you were good enough to get both removed, the headlight assemble will not push out through the bumper.... Keep going with bumper removal.
3. Remove 2, 7mm bolts of the front bumper that are now visible up near the outer edge of the headlight assembly.
4. At this point I removed the bumper's top edge start bolts and bottom edge 7mm bolts about 3/4 of the way across the bumper...
5. The bumper is very flexible and you can now pull it back , reach in, and get that last difficult star bolt on the headlight assembly....
6. Don't forget the one electrical connector....
7. I also recommend testing the new assembly by plugging it in before removing anything

Nov 09, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2007 toyota tacoma replace front wheel bearing prerunner


The other guys have never taken the wheel bearings out of a 2007 Tacoma! Remove the tire (duh)
Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line securing bracket
Un-clip the air sensor hose clip
Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the brake assembly on the back side
Remove the rotor from the wheel "spindle"- slides right off.
Unscrew the four metric bolts (maybe 17mm) holding the wheel housing to its mount (they cannot be removed from the assembly yet, see below).
That's right there is no normal wheel spindle with a big nut on the end of a threaded shaft in the middle!
The wheel mounting plate (with the 6 studs) is pressed into the bearing housing.
Get a replacement bearing assembly and take it and your old unit to a machine shop (unless you have a good press).
An easy job, just expensive- $140 for the bearing assembly.

Mar 27, 2012 | 2007 Toyota Tacoma

1 Answer

How do you remove and replace a power steering pump on a 2002 chevy lumina?


YOU FIRST YOU NEED TO REMOVE COOLANT RECOVERY RESERVOIR. YOU NEED TO REMOVE DRIVE BELT.NOW PLACE DRAIN PAN UNDER CAR IN LINE WITH POWER STEERING PUMP.NOW SIPHON OUT MUCH POWER STEERING FLUID OUT RESERVOIR USING A SIPHON.ONCE FLUID REMOVE OUT POWER STEERING PUMP.USE A DEEP 3/8 SOCKET ABOUT 13M OR 14 M YOU NEED A SHORT EXTENSION AND A 3/8 RATCHET WRENCH.TO REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP.TO LOOSEN BOLTS, TAKE DEEP SOCKET IN PULLEY HOLES . LOOK THROUGH POWER STEERING PULLEY HOLES ALIGN DEEP SOCKET THROUGH THE PULLEY HOLES TO THE PUMP BOLTS. LOOSEN ALL THREE BOLTS. YOU HAVE TO TURN PULLEY THREE TIMES TO REMOVE ALL THE POWER STEERING PUMP BOLTS.ONCE POWER STEERING PUMP BOLTS REMOVED.TAKE OLD POWER STEERING PUMP TO THE MACHINE SHOP.THEY WILL HAVE TO REMOVE PULLEY OFF OLD PUMP AND TRANSFER DRIVE PULLEY TO NEW POWER STEERING PUMP.NOW WHEN YOU INSTALL NEW POWER STEERING PUMP.MAKE SURE TO BUY A NEW O RING FOR THE HIGH PRESSURE HOSE TO POWER STEERING PUMP. WHEN ALL DONE BLEED POWER STEERING PUMP. WITH THE FRONT WHEELS TURNED ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT AND THE IGNITION KEY OFF, CHECK THE POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL AND IF LOW ADD FLUID UNTIL IT REACHES THE COLD MARK ON THE DIP STICK.SAFELY RAISE FRONT WHEEL OFF GROUND BY SUPPORTING FRONT OF THE CAR USING JACK STANDS, MAKE SURE CAR SITTING ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW IT TO RUN AT FAST IDLE.RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL AND ADD MORE IF NECESSARY TO REACH THE COLD MARK ON THE DIP STICK.BLEED THE SYSTEM BY TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE WITHOUT HITTING A STOPS.THIS WILL WORK THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM. DONT ALLOW THE RESERVOIR TO RUN OUT OF FLUID. WHEN AIR IS WORKED OUT OF THE SYSTEM.RETURN THE WHEELS TO THE STRAIGHT AHEAD POSITION, AND LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SHUTTING OFF. RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL.ROAD TEST THE VECHICLE TO BE SURE THE STEERING SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING NORMALLY WITH NO NOISE.RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL TO BE SURE ITS UP TO THE HOT MARK ON THE DIP STICK WHILE THE ENGINE IS AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE ADD FLUID IF NECESSARY.

Apr 18, 2011 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace front brakes and rotors


first take off wheels, then check if it is a star screw or a normal bolt, then remove the bottom bolt, remove the top bolt, and take the caliper off to access the pads and to remove the rotors, then back together the way it came apart with some anti seize on the face and bolts. Sometimes you have to pound the old rotors off...

Mar 08, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

I am trying to get the wheel assembly apart to change the front bearings on a 1996 mercury villiger


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

9ad2184.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
  3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).

    Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
  5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
  6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
  7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).




  8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
  9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.


    stv~us~en~file=f8063b.gif~gen~ref.gif

  10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.




  11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.




  12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
  13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.




  14. Remove the tie rod end nut.




  15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.




  16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.




  17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.




  18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
  20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
  21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
  22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.




Installation
  1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
  1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).

Apr 10, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Villager

Not finding what you are looking for?
1995 Toyota Camry Logo

Related Topics:

101 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Toyota Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76846 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22246 Answers

Jeffrey Turcotte
Jeffrey Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8575 Answers

Are you a Toyota Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...