Question about 2004 Toyota 4Runner

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How to change 4 runner front blinker light. there's a phillips screw under the hood I have removed but there is another fastener in the lower portion of the blinker housing I cannot locate.

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  • Toyota Master
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Remove or disconnect the following:

  • Connector
  • Screw
  • Claw fitting
  • Front turn signal lamp assembly
  • Front turn signal lamp plug assembly
  • Front turn signal lamp bulb as shown
how to change 4 runner front blinker light. - 6191f4c.gif
c741133.gif
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Front turn signal lamp bulb
    • Front turn signal lamp plug assembly
    • Front turn signal lamp assembly with screw
    • Connector

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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1 Answer

Change front turn signal


The side marker light must be removed in order to get at the turn signal light.
There are two screws holding the side marker light which is situated above the turn signal.
Open the hood.
Remove the phillips head screw at the top of the side marker light.
Using a long #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw on the outside of the side marker light. This can be seen by looking between the lower side of the side marker light and the top side of the turn signal.
The side marker can be moved.
The turn signal has one screw on the top of the fixture that must be removed.
Slide out the turn signal fixture. There is a small feature on the lower front corner of the turn signal fixture that you must note to properly reinstall the turn signal.
In order to get to the bulb, rotate the bulb socket 1/4 turn CW or CCW. The bulb socket is loose.
The bulb is simply pressed into the socket.
Not sure of the type, but it can be found at your locale auto parts store.
The bulb is used in several places on the 1994 GC, so get apacket with two, if possible.
Assembly in reverse. Be careful not to overtighten the screws as they are replaced.

Mar 29, 2011 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How to change radiator


Radiator REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Cirrus, Sebring Convertible, Stratus and Breeze CAUTION
Do not open the radiator draincock or remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is hot and under pressure. This can cause serious burns from hot, pressurized coolant. Allow a sufficient amount of time for the cooling system to cool down before opening up the system. NOTE: The radiator uses plastic tanks. Plastic tanks, while stronger than brass, are subject to damage by impact, such as slipped wrenches. Use care when working around these radiators.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet, which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
  2. Remove the air inlet resonator.
  3. Place a large drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain engine coolant. NOTE: To open the drain plug on models equipped with a 2.5L engine, use a 3⁄8 inch drive extension 3 inches (7.6cm) long and a 19mm socket with universal joint. The drain plug can also be accessed by removing the right front fog light in the front lower bumper fascia.
  4. Remove the upper radiator crossmember as follows:
    1. Remove the push-in mounting fasteners securing the front fascia/grille unit to the radiator support crossmember.
    2. Remove the mounting bolts securing the support braces to the bottom of the crossmember.
    3. Remove the bolts securing the crossmember to the radiator closure panel.
    4. Remove the mounting nuts attaching the hood latch to the radiator crossmember. Remove the crossmember from the vehicle. Fig. 2: Using a small flat bladed tool, pry up the center portion of the plastic front grille/fascia retainers, then pull them out 90903p02.jpg
      Fig. 3: To aid in a straight reassembly, matchmark the washer screws to the radiator crossmember using a marker 90903p03.jpg
      Fig. 4: Remove the radiator crossmember mounting fasteners 90903p04.jpg
      Fig. 5: Remove the mounting bolts for the hood lock latch mechanism 90903p01.jpg
      Fig. 6: Remove the radiator support crossmember 90903p08.jpg
      NOTE: The following step and associated photos describe original type hose clamps. Some vehicles may instead have a worm gear type clamp, which can be loosened with a screwdriver.

  5. Using pliers, compress the tabs on each hose clamp, then slide the clamp a few inches away from the hose end. Carefully twist and pull the hoses from the radiator.
  6. Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if equipped.
  7. Disconnect and plug the transaxle cooler lines, if equipped.
  8. Remove screw attaching support bracket for external transaxle cooler lines to the left side of the radiator, if equipped. Fig. 7: Relieve the tension from the hose clamp, then disconnect the upper coolant hose at the radiator 90903p09.jpg
    Fig. 8: If equipped with an automatic transaxle, loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the transmission fluid cooler hose 90903p14.jpg
    Fig. 9: Remove the mounting fasteners that retain the fluid and refrigerant line support brackets to each side of the radiator/condenser assembly 90903p05.jpg
    Fig. 10: Disengaging the cooling fan electrical connector 90903p18.jpg

  9. Remove the screw attaching the support bracket for air conditioning lines from the right side of the radiator. Remove the support bracket.
  10. Unplug the cooling fan wiring.
  11. Remove the air conditioning condenser mounting screws. Use care when working around the air conditioning condenser. Avoid bending the condenser inlet tube. Care should be taken not to damage the radiator or condenser cooling fins or water tubes during removal. It is not necessary to discharge the air conditioning system to remove the radiator. Fig. 11: Access to the lower radiator cooling hose (1) and lower left side A/C condenser-to-radiator mounting fasteners (2) is possible after removal of the left fog light 90903p12.jpg
    Fig. 12: Access to the lower transmission fluid cooler line (1) and lower right side A/C condenser-to-radiator mounting fasteners (2) is possible after removal of the right fog light 90903p13.jpg
    Fig. 13: Remove the A/C condenser-to-radiator mounting fasteners 90903p16.jpg
    Fig. 14: Unclip the A/C line from the cooling fan module 90903p15.jpg
    Fig. 15: Remove the radiator assembly from the vehicle 90903p07.jpg

  12. Carefully remove the radiator from the vehicle. The cooling fan/shroud assembly can be separated from the radiator at this time. To install:
  13. If separated, install the cooling fan/shroud assembly to the radiator unit.
  14. Lower the radiator and fan module (assembly) into position. Seat the radiator assembly lower isolators in the mount holes provided.
  15. Install the air conditioning condenser mounting screws and tighten to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
  16. Connect the radiator hoses and tighten the hose clamps to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm). Be sure the hoses do not interfere with the accessory drive belt, and be sure the upper hose clamp does not interfere with the hood liner.
  17. Connect the cooling fan wiring.
  18. Connect the transaxle cooler lines to the radiator, if equipped.
  19. Install the upper radiator crossmember as follows:
    1. Place the radiator crossmember into the vehicle in proper position.
    2. Install the hood latch to the radiator crossmember. Install and tighten the hood latch mounting nuts.
    3. Install and tighten the crossmember-to-radiator closure panel mounting bolts.
    4. Install and tighten the mounting bolts that secure the support braces to bottom of the radiator crossmember.
    5. Install the push-in mounting fasteners holding the front fascia/grille unit to the radiator crossmember.
  20. Connect the engine block heater, if equipped.
  21. Install the air inlet resonator.
  22. Fill the cooling system with the correct type and amount of engine coolant.
  23. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and allow it to idle until it reaches full operating temperature. Check the cooling system for correct fluid level and top off if necessary.

Aug 03, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

How do you replace a headlight on a 2006 lincoln town car (low beam - left side)


Open the hood. Remove the black plastic grill assssembly ( Laying horizontal between the radiator and front bumper). There will be a couple of plastic screws (or some other fastening system) for this part remove and set aside. There is another black plastic grill assembly standing vertical. Remove similar fastening devices and set aside. IF DURING THIS ENTIRE PROCESS there is ANY part that does not come off freely after removing a fastening device (plastic screw, metal screws, hex bolts, bolts) LOOK FOR A PLASTIC CLIP - unclip that as a final step in each of these processes. To continue, Each headlight is attached by three hex or phillips screws.- Remove them and set asside. There is a major clip attaching the headlight at the top. Unattach this and gently remove the entire light housing. The housing will be the unit containing all parts high beam, low beams, side lights, and blinkers. It is a nice tidy unit. To continue, look for a black plastic removable panel on the back allowing access to the back of the bulbs. Remove the 5 screws and set asside. You now have access to the bulbs. The bulbs are attached by a solid plastic clip. Grab the back of the plastic bulb housing and turn about a half of an inch to remove the bulb. Unattach the clip from the wirering harness and you will have the bulb removed. CAREFULLY remove the new bulb making sure not to touch the glass portion of the bulb with hands directly. Skin oils or other debris is not recommended to get on the bulb. Deliberately refasten the bulb wiring harness and replace to the back of the reflection housing. Reassemble all devices. Rinse wash repeat for the other side :)

This seems complex for the task at hand and it is. But from the perspective of repairing a front end after a minor collision is is wonderful. Enjoy...

Jul 23, 2010 | 2006 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

How do I change the front right blinker light?


you may have to replace from under the hood. if you can not see screws to remove the cover fromthe outside. Look under the hood to see if there or nuts holding the assmbly in or if there is a plug for the bulb to go in that you can remove and then unplug old bulb and plug new one in.

Mar 22, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki XL-7

1 Answer

How do I replace speakers on a 1994 xj6 ?


Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.


3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.


7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

Mar 10, 2010 | 1994 Jaguar XJ6

2 Answers

How do you replace the fog light bulbs on a 2007 hyundai sonata


Look under the bumper and you will see two large phillips head screws right in front of the wheels. Take these two screws out and bend/move the plastice piece out of the way. Now you can easily get to the bulb. There is a cap that twists off that protects the wires and back of the bulb. Twist this off and then remove the plug portion from the back of the bulb. The bulb then turns 1/4 to 1/2 revolution to loosen and remove. Reverse steps for installation.

Dec 19, 2009 | 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited Sedan

1 Answer

How do you take off inner driver side door panel with out breaking the the snaps and panel itself


Sometines the panel retainers do break, they are available at most parts stores, you should use a special tool to remove them (pic below)

Front Door Panel: Service and Repair
Trim Panel Replacement - Side Front Door
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38778 Door Trim Pad Clip Remover
1. Remove the inside handle bezel (2).
2. Remove the fastener (1).
3. Lift the flap (1) in pull handle opening.
4. Remove the two fasteners (2).
5. Remove the two fasteners (1) from bottom of trim panel.
6. Using the J 38778, release the eight retainers.
7. Lift upward and outward on the door trim panel.
8. Disconnect the door latch cable from the inside door handle.
8.1. Pry the tab on the cable outboard while pulling back on the cable.
8.2. Unhook the collar portion of the clip from the cable attachment.
8.3. Push upward on the bottom of the cable attachment to disengage the cable from the handle clip.
9. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
10. Remove the door trim panel.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Partially install the door trim panel.
2. Connect the electrical connectors.
3. Connect the door latch cable to the inside door handle.
4. Raise the trim panel over the lock knob and align the fasteners (1) in the holes in the door assembly.
5. Secure the trim panel to the door assembly by applying sufficient pressure on the trim panel.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
6. Install the two fasteners (2) under the inside pull handle opening.
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
7. Install the inside trim panel cover fastener (1).
Tighten
Tighten the fastener to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
8. Install the trim bezel (2).
9. Install the two fasteners at the lower portion of the trim panel.
Tighten
Tighten the two lower fasteners to 0.5 N.m (4 lb in).

182052b.jpg

Oct 30, 2009 | 2000 Cadillac Seville

1 Answer

I want to replace flasher on 89 olds 88 where is it


If you mean the blinker bulb, they are either set in behind the front bumper, where you see the orange/white colored glass (directly beneath the headlights)....OR the side blinkers, which are accessed by opening the hood and reaching in from the inside.

The rear blinkers are able to be accessed by opening the hood, and removing a small (phillips head) screw on the top of the vertical tail light housing. These lights serve as blinkers and brake lights, and there are two in each housing. Hope that helps! :)

Jun 16, 2009 | 1989 Oldsmobile Delta 88

1 Answer

Left and right blinker light


Your gonna have to remove the blinker panels to replace the lights. I'm assuming your talking about the clear rectangular blinkers on the front? If so, start with the orange blinkers on the sides, 2 screws, under that blinker will be 2 more screws to remove the mount that holds your blinkers in place. Look around the 4 corners of your headlight, you'll find more screws. Once you've unscrewed everything you'll be able to remove the blinker mount thing (square-ish piece of plastic) and then you should have access to the clear rectangular blinkers on the front. Very easy.

Apr 28, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Removing Headlight Assembly on 2003 Ford Focus Ultimate Edition


Jack up the front of the vehicle. Secure the vehicle with at least once JACK STAND. Open the hood of the car. Remove the front grill. Remove the fasteners on the head light assembly that are located on the exposed inner fender and the one that was under the front grill. Lay on your back and look between the front fender and the head light assembly. You only have about 4 inches. Remove that screw. All screws are either Phillips or torks.

Dec 24, 2008 | 2003 Ford Focus

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