Question about 2001 Renault Sportwagon

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My 1996 Espace has had 3 new master cylinders in the last 9 months also 3 new wheel cylinders.each time it worked for a while but then brakes go soft again and i mean nothing no brakes at all, so i had a go at back bleeding them but it seem's to be blocked but then the front ones where the same and they can't be both blocked due to going right to the master cylinder please correct me if i'm wrong, so i'm stumped as i don't think it can be the servo as it sinks a inch or two after pumping it a few times then starting the engine so any guidance would be very welcome

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  • Renault Master
  • 759 Answers

The brake system is a duel system if you are loosing complete brake failure that points to the master cyl. but a faulty servo can damage the seals in the master cyl.if the diaphram is leaking. pull one of the old master cylinders see if the seals have been partially been turned inside/out if its the front brakes full of air sounds like the primary circuit master cyl piston/seal closest to the servo if it was me i would change that servo

Posted on Apr 27, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: replaced master,still soft pedal 2001 sportage

A perssure bleeder is the best way to bleed the brakes. You can't properly just bleed one or two lines. You must start with the left rear, then right rear, then front right and finally front left. Any other order will just push a bubble around.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

aliencountdo
  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes after changing master cylinder and rear

Try pumping your brake pedal quickly at least 10 times, hold it to floor, get someone to open bleed nipple furthest from master cylinder then close again, let pedal up then repeat. Try loosening a pipe that leaves master cylinder, pump bake a few times to prime it, see if fluid comes out, the cylinder may be airlocked.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 1374 Answers

SOURCE: brake servo master cyl flexing and moving to bulk

I think your saying you have a spongy pedal. have the brake system checked for leaks ( externally as well as internally eg master cylinder) and wear. If a-ok then have them bleed the system.
Now if your saying there is a problem with pedal travel
that has to do with pedal rod adjustment( which is only adjusted after replacing a master cylinder or booster)

Posted on Apr 14, 2010

timsauto123
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: when bleeding the brakes, i bleed back right then

could be the p/valve or the union,check and undo all brake bleeders and let gravity bleed.








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Posted on Oct 21, 2010

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2002 Chrysler town and country, always had soft brake pedal, replaced calipers and master cylinder bled brakes several times problem still there, suddenly pedal got full but brakes started dragging.


A soft or spongy brake pedal is an indicator that there is air in the hydraulic line(s) of your brake system.
Improper bleeding could be a cause.
Damaged or malfunctioning master cylinder could be another cause...
Damaged, crimped, or pin hole leak in the brake line...
Leaking or damaged wheel cylinder...
Poorly adjusted brake calipers...
Using the wrong type of DOT brake fluid...
Using brake fluid from a previously opened container that has been sitting around for more than 6-months (DOT type 3 and type 4 are glycol-based fluids that absorb water).

Feb 22, 2017 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2003 hyundia elentra hatchback ...it is front wheel drive.. no abs...4 wheel disk....changed rotors,breaks,and calipers ...now i cant get front brakes to bleed....any suggestions as to why


A friend had a similar trouble with a Renault Espace. He had pumped loads of fluid through the system but could not obtain a decent brake pedal. He had made an elementary mistake and fitted each brake caliper to the wrong side of the car so the bleed ******* pointed down instead of up.

Your description of what you did and what is happening is so sparse I can offer only a few suggestions.

If the master cylinder was drained during the repair it can be very difficult to persuade an older master cylinder to begin to pump again and a vacuum bleeder could be needed or even a pressure bleeder.

During normal use the master cylinder spends years travelling only a few millimetres. When the brakes are eventually repaired and an attempt to bleed the brakes is made the master cylinder travels the full length where the seals can encounter a wear ridge, sediment and corrosion. It is not unusual for the master cylinder to fail at that moment.

Other possibilities are binding or maladjusted footbrake linkage, broken or weak return springs - including the master cylinder return spring. It is also possible the machining of one of the calipers wasn't completed and a fluid port has not been fully drilled out.

Apr 11, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Loss of brake pedal,had 2 new mastercylinders


Hi, it may not be the master cylinder but a leak in the piping or other brake parts. The system was bled to get all the air out when the new cylinder was fitted and it sounds like you are getting air back into the system again that will cause the brakes not to work .Some times it can be caused by a perforated brake pipe due to rust.

Dec 16, 2015 | 2002 Kia Rio

1 Answer

96 Thunderbird, soft brakes at slow speed otherwise brakes work just fine. All new pads. 2 new calipers and rotors 4 months ago, problem started last month. Could it be the master cylinder going?


Where the rubber brake flex hoses changed ?

Was all rust removed from caliper slides & all
moving parts lubed ?

Sounds like the job wasn't done quite right & then
there is still air in the system.

The wrong brake pads could be an issues also

The master should be okey, but should have been taken
apart & clean out the moisture around the piston

Aug 22, 2013 | Ford Thunderbird Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1998 Bonneville SSEi brake system cant bleed


this is best way i know is to fill resevoire with fluid open all bleeders up let it start dripping out of them keeping fluid full in resivoire do this until bleeders leaking real good then shut all bleeders put cap on master cylinder crank car check feel of brakes now if pedal still soft then bleed brakes with car not running check again with car running still soft bleed again with car running

Sep 06, 2012 | 1998 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

My 94 c1500 has very spongy brakes.I have replaced brake booster,master cylinder,porportion valve and both rear wheel cylinders.brake pedal will get firm when applied too bleed brakes but not much fluid...


You still have air in the system. You will have to bleed more. I had to bleed a quart of brake fluid out of each wheel to get good brakes on my 1996 GMC.

Jul 29, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

2006 toyota landcruiser brake goes limp, pedal goes soft


Replace your master cylinder. It is leaking out of the back of the master cylinder and into the booster. If you unbolt the master and carefully look into the booster, chances are you will see brake fluid. Replace it, bleed the entire system, and enjoy your truck again.

May 31, 2010 | 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

Any info on changing a brake booster on a 1996 Sierra and also help trouble shooting a master cy. Thanxlinder


a defective master has just one common symptom, a soft sinking pedal.
Instructions Things You'll Need:
  • Nose pliers
  • Ratchet and socket
  • Ratchet extension
  • Slip joint pliers
  • Wrench
  • New cotter pin
    Removing the Old Brake Booster
  1. Step 1 Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.
  2. Step 2 Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.
  3. Step 3 Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.
  4. Step 4 Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.
  5. Step 5 Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.
  6. Step 6 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.
  7. Step 7 Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  8. Step 8 Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.
  9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
    Installing the New Brake Booster
  10. Step 1 Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.
  11. Step 2 Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.
  12. Step 3 Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
  13. Step 4 Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  14. Step 5 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
  15. Step 6 Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.
  16. Step 7 Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
  17. Step 8 Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.
  18. Step 9 Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal

Nov 20, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

No brakes after changing master cylinder and rear wheel cylinder it not the servo but i've tryed back bleeding without joy as there seems to be a blockage but not sure how as this should not happen in the...


Try pumping your brake pedal quickly at least 10 times, hold it to floor, get someone to open bleed nipple furthest from master cylinder then close again, let pedal up then repeat. Try loosening a pipe that leaves master cylinder, pump bake a few times to prime it, see if fluid comes out, the cylinder may be airlocked.

Sep 30, 2009 | 2000 Renault 181

1 Answer

1996 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER SOFT BRAKE PEDAL AIR IN LINES


I am a hydraulic technician and I can tell you that air is a killer in the hydraulic system.

Start from the rear and work your way forward. I f you are using the two person method, make sure the second person keeps the master cylinder full. If the fluid level dropped anywhere in between pressing and releasing the brakes....you have a lot of air in the system.

Make sure you are tightening the bleed valve when the brake pedal is full pressed.

Remeber...start from the rear brakes first, then do the front.

Mar 16, 2009 | 1996 Plymouth Voyager

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