Recently when I apply the handbrake, the system began screeching very badly. I asked my landrover garage to check it out but they could fine no problem!! .Today my handbrake locked on and rendered the vehicle unmovable. (Landrover talked me through how to deploy the emergency release cable (it's a small wire cable that sits under the removable cover directly behind and beneath the handbrake switch- just remove the plastic cover and using part of the wheel jack tool, hook this cable and give it a right old tug - this releases the handbrake and got me mobile Today they have told me it will require a complete replacement of the handbrake system at 700 quid!!!!! nice one land rover. (my vehicle ran out of warranty in Jan) clearly reading these posts its a common Disco 3 issue!!!
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Land Rover Master
Re: Landrover Hand Brake Problem
It's not too late to try this:
With a normal handbrake, you can remove some screws around the handbrake covering. The screws are sometimes well hidden so you have to look around.
When you get the covering off, there are two adjusting nuts at the rear of the handbrake. Turn the nuts until you can get "5 clicks" on the handbrake to set the brakes.
Some jack up the car while doing this so they can rotate the wheels by hand to feel when the brakes touch the pads.
Hope this helps
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I familiar with this setup, but the car should start with the parking brake on. I could see it warning you if you try to move it with brake set, or maybe even shutting off engine then, but I would never think it would prevent engine from starting. Is this a stick shift or automatic. Make sure transmission is in neutral or park, clutch depressed.
As you know you can now buy a cheap scanner at advance auto that will erase codes...
I would double check my work..It could be a misadjusted ABS sensor or contaminated.
I am also a tech...former GM but now I am level 2 Chrysler.
I also have a landrover freelander and I hate it...Most of these have the worst wiring system in the world.It could just be a wiring issue that landrover themselves have done wrong when they built it.
But I myself would disconnect the negative cable for 30 seconds and this will definitley erase the codes.....Normally the warning light will cut itself off after going at least 6 miles per hour after you perform the repairs but it seems it didnt come on until after you already done the repairs....So I guess it was late telling you...This is what I meant by their wiring being poorly done..
So I would check my work just to be sure then disconnect battery.....If it comes back on the only thing you can do is change the sensor...Volvo is bad for the same problem.
.............hope this helps...........................Metalpoet............PS.Make sure fluid level is correct.
There is adjustment at the transmission brake backplate, use a 17 mm spanner to adjust the shoes to drum clearance. The cable adjustment is done by undoing and either removing or lifting up , the centre console, then you will see a plastic round adjuster and c clip , adjust as necessary.
Hope this helps
possible causes , part siezed brake wheel cylinder or hand brake cable not returning correctly - first back off hand brake cable then check rotation of wheel - either way it will need stripping down checking - but not too expensive - andy - need to know more just ask
Most likely your switch under the dash needs replacing, or you have a short, take a light and look under your dash up the brake pedal lever and you should be able to locate it, it will be a button most probably and it will be stuck in, or shorted.
Sounds like fan belt wasnt done up tightly and suprised garage wouldnt find time to fix or inspect thier own repair.Unsure about liability.From the point of view that thier repair caused a problem that didnt previously exist i would have to say yesbut you need to prove the car wasnt over heating before it went there.That screech may have been slipping,certainly sounds like it.On the other hand,you chose to drive to the point of a serious overheat and failed to see the temp rising on your dash gauge.Dont get me wrong im not saying its your fault but if you pursue the liability thing it will be asked why you drove the car knowing there was a problem.
Just had this same issue with my 57 plate Discovery SE - great guy from the AA took the small plate off that sits immediately to the rear of the hanbrake button in the central console - he then hooked a wire around the cable you see in there and gave it a mighty tug. The result is that my brake is now disengaged (rather than stuck-on as before) and LR will need to cure the source of the problem under warranty. Car is automatic so can use "park" until full repair.