Question about 2005 Pontiac Grand Am

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No reverse lights on 2000 grand am or shift out of park lock

Jumper wire to green( +) @lower left back up light will light all. Volt meter sees ground on blk & green no power to wire. The selector switch on trans was replaced. fuse#42 has power. All fuses good. The trans will shift with the key on without pushing on the brake. Says in the manual backup lights are on the same circut.What should be tried next? What wire color goes from fuse box to the switch? Is the safety(button on the shifter) switch wired to the brake switch to blame? I want to fix the proper way and not bypass.

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  • vettewing Oct 04, 2009

    I fixed it. Traced green wire from reverse lights to the switch. Pink wire at the switch had no power. Pink to green, jumped, bypasses the switch. Fused power to pink and worked. Followed pink to the fusebox and the wire was cut. I soldered the wire back together and everything works great.



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Try disconnecting the plug off the reverse light switch (on the transmission) and bridging out the 2 terminals and then see if your revers lights work if they do replace the switch

Posted on Oct 01, 2009


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2000 suzuki grand vitara won't shift from park

Don't forget you need your foot on the brake.

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Plug trailer connector to 2000 expedition unly get running lights only no turn signals

If you have a 12 volt test light or volt ohm meter first verify #1 has continuity with chassis ground. Below is a picture how your vehicle is wired, It may just be fuses in your car. Easiest way to imbed the turn signal / brake light circuit wire color code is Green grass on right side of the road and yellow lines on left side of the road. An inexpensive 12 volt test light (looks like an ice pick with a wire with an alligator clip coming out the opposite end of the sharp ice pick end

I hope this helps you, good luck!


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Crv only one brake light working

ever heard of the voltmeter. ?
a device the prevents guessing?
it's very simple to use, if yours is a DMM and that is confusing
use a walfart analog meter for $10 (retrograde meter)

so since one light works, that means the wires are bad.
when I say wires, that means the connectors too.

and btw the switch was good, after all it runs both lights.
my guess? is trailer wiring hacks, or collision damage caused.

if the dead lamp is 0v, the wire is cut.
if like 1v to 6v, its shorted. just enough to not blow fuse but lamp is very dim, did you look in the dark?

low voltage is called, VOLTAGE DROP. (on either side of lamp)
and is caused by 2 things, shorts, or resistance (corrosion)
and sadly you never said left or right side.
see the FSM. see the electric pages.

see page. 23-1 , index to elect.
then 23-84 brakes
then see them.
see the green-white wire, back aft? In USA we have silly 3rd light. do you>?
using the volt meter, measure the Green-white wire. (bad side)
if 12v?, brakes active, the ground to the lamp is open or the new lamp is DOA.
if the lamp tests good (use a battery), the ground is open to lamp.

if the wire reads 6v (low #), it's got a short. (or a rusty ground wire)
or the green wire is shorting to ground.
if you trace the wire to the other side if car, you will find the open cut wire or the ground out. I'm 100% sure. (grounds good)
if the lamp green has 12v, we measure the shell of the lamp to the body ground, metal, brakes active ! if not 0v, the ground to the lamp is bad. fix the ground.
very simple tests. all.
this is all with a $10 volt meter, it will not lie to you ever,. trust it.

Sep 21, 2013 | 2000 Honda CR-V

1 Answer


There is an electrical brake light switch under the dash, at the top of the brake pedal, near the steering column. This brake light switch is wired in series with the gear shift lever, which means if one goes bad or has a problem, the other does too. If the brake light switch isn't working correctly, it will not allow the gear shift lever to be moved from the Park position. You first have to remove the plastic cover under the dash that covers the steering column (it will pop loose when pulled on and some are tougher than others to pull off but go back easily) to get to where you can see the brake light switch and the plug-in that plugs into it. Next move the seat all the way back to give you more room, and tilt the steering wheel all the way up out of the way. That switch could be bad or the two wires going to the plug-in could not be making good electrical contact. I had this to happen to my 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis and seen it happen to several others that I fixed. To test if it's the brake light switch, unplug the plug-in that has 2 wires going into it that is plugged into to the brake light switch (you will need a flash light, a flathead screw driver, and a pair of pliers to make this job easier). Take a 3 or 4 inch length of heavy solid wire, remove a small amount of the insulation from both ends of the 3 to 4 inch solid wire and bend it into a "U" shape to make a jumper wire out of it. Plug one uninsulated end of the "U" solid wire into one side of the plug-in with the 2 wires running to it that connects to the brake light switch on the brake pedal, then plug the other uninsulated end of the "U" shaped wire into the other opening of that same plug-in that has the 2 wire running into it. Your brake lights should come on and stay on, even though you are not touching the brake pedal, nor is your key in the on position, and your gear shift lever should move to any gear you want when you turn your key to the on position. Be advised, your brake lights will stay on as long as the jumper wire is stuck into the plug-in and will run your battery down if left that way. If what I have just explained happens, you have a faulty brake switch. If it does not happen, one of the wires going to the brake light switch plug-in may not be making a good connection or it may be grounded. To see if it's grounded check all of your fuses. Check the fuses under the dash and the fuses mounted on the fender under the hood. If you find a blown fuse, replace it. If it blows the fuse again, you have a ground and you will have to trace down where the wire is grounded and fix it. A volt meter set for 12 volts will aid in this when tracing a wire that is grounded. Then re-try all of this again after you have found any place the wire may have been grounded and you have fixed it. Most likely it's 1 of the 2 wires not making a good connection in the plug-in that plugs into the brake pedal switch. This seems to be a fault with the 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. I've fixed this problem on 4 different Mercury's in the past. I don't know if this happens to other models of Mercury Grand Marquis or the Ford Crown Vic's. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Oct 02, 2011 | 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

2000 Honda Odyssey. The passenger side headlamp burned out and I replaced it, no issues two days ago. Battery was cranking slowly and terminals were corroded so I cleaned them. Last night in 15 degree...

The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.

However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

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