Question about 1995 Honda Accord

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D4 Light Flashing on 92 Honda Accord gives Code 9

Alright so a few days ago my D4 Light was flashing which I looked it up and it is due to transmission failure somewhere I get that but when I look up Code 9 I get different things from different people but mostly its my NC Speed Sensor. Anyways the issue is My Car is running fine no problems, I do not notice a change in gears that is not normal like being stuck in a gear or anything only No check engine light on just the D4 flashing and well my ABS has been out for a while too. Anyways To **** it is a little harder now but I can still shift fine what is the problem for a code 9? Also if I wanted to do this myself is it easy or hard and can you give me any pointers! Also I did notice the other day that some wires under by the transmission were split like a animal chewed at them or something could that give me the D4 light?

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SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A VERMIN PROBLEM SUCH AS SQUIRRELS OR RODENTS BUT YOU SHOULD CHECK TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT HAVE WIRES THAT ARE SHORTING OUT BUT THE MOST REASONABLE PROBELM WITH THE 90-93 MODELS IS A MAIN RELAY WHICH IS THE PGMI RELAY AHVING BAD CONTACTS AND THIS WILL CAUSE D4 TO FLASH THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN A SORE THUMB SITUATION ON HONDA FOR A WHILE BUT IT WILL LEAD TO CAR NOT STARTING SOON AND ALSO CAUSE STALLING OR NO RESTART AFTER VEHICLE GETS TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE. IF YOU NEED TO CHECK THE RESISTANCE ON THE SOLENOIDS THAT CONTROL D4 THEY ARE RATHER EASY TO GET TO SINCE THEY SIT ON THE TOP PART OF THE TRANSMISSION ON THE PASSENGERS SIDE. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET TO THE CONNECTOR AND THE SOLENOIDS ARE HELD DOWN BY THREE 10MM BOLTS.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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The post from lonniewinste is completely wrong and way off base. The D4 light for 92 accord is a TCU error (transmission control unit). Error 9 is the rear counter shaft speed sensor (NC sensor). I believe the sensor is located on the back of the transmission, and if you remove the connector and measure the resistance of the sensor, it should be between 400-600 ohms. If not, replace it. At the time of this post, Autozone sells one for about $125 bucks (part number SU6712). If the sensor is good, then you have some bad wiring going to the TCU.

The sensor should be a pretty easy fix as long as you can get to it. You might need to jack the car up and access it from underneath.

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

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11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
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14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
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