Engine moves after changing spak plugs & wires on 02ChevyTahoe
I changed the spark plugs and gapped them(.060) and also cahnged the spark plug wires. How come now when i'm driving My 2002 chevy Tahoe LT and i come to a stop i feel the engine kind of move after liike 10- 15 seconds of stopping and when i take off instead of hearing that solid roooooom its sounds like its skipping its roooooooooom?
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Re: Engine moves after changing spak plugs & wires on...
Well first thing you do is take out the plugs again and regap to 0.25tho(not 60) and it the fitting of the leads If there fitted correctly etc then it sounds like you have pre ign (due to over heating and tomuch fuel ,cause the engine to either keep running OR running Backwards thats called pre- igniton and can stuff your engine..
Let me know how you go Ron
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The first thing to remember is only change plugs on a cold engine, or you can risk damaging the cylinder heads. Disconnect the battery, and remove the sparkplug wires from the plugs (pull the boot, not the wire). A slight turning of the boot may aid removal; be sure to keep the wires in order. Use a socket to remove each spark plug from the cylinder head. Check for oil or black soot, which may indicate an engine problem. Check the gap of the new plugs before installing; the recommended gap is .060" - you can get a simple gapping tool at any auto store. Thread each new plug into the cylinder head, being extremely careful not to cross-thread them. Snug them down; do not over-tighten. Re-attach the plug wires until you hear them snap on. Reconnect the battery and drive.
Expect spark-plug work to be tedious. If this is your
first time, plan 3 or 4 hours after engine cools (or 1 hour on several
days), allowing 15 minutes per plug. It is harder than changing air filters, fixing flat tires, or starting a mower.
Consult your vehicle's manual. Look up where your
spark plugs are, how many you have, the correct "gap", and the size
socket needed to remove them. Also write down the vehicle's make, model,
and year. The gap can also be found on the emissions label under the
Visit your local auto parts store.
Find (either by looking up in the provided reference book or by asking
an employee) the correct spark plugs for your vehicle. The store also
has socket wrenches, plus spark-plug sockets (with gasket), and
socket-extension rods or swivel-joints to reach recessed plugs.
Find out (from the reference book, the packaging, or the employee) if these spark plugs need to be "gapped".
Some modern plugs should not be gapped (but others can have different
gaps, depending on use in either 6-cylinder or V-8 engines, etc.).
Park vehicle, turn off the engine, and open the engine compartment, to cool for hours.
(WARNING: After running a car for a long time, the spark plugs can be
the hottest part of engine! While it can require several hours to cool
enough, it can require several weeks to heal burnt skin.) Especially
with aluminum-head engines, let cool to room temperature to reduce the
probability of damaging the threads.
Take (if needed) a wire-gauge spark plug gap tool and adjust the distance between the two electrodes.
Between the electrodes is where a spark is made. One electrode will be
an L-shaped piece of metal (hook), the other a metal prong centered
directly across from it. Set the gap between the two electrodes, from
.028-.060 inch, such as .035/.040 /.043 /.050, as in book (see Tips
Collect tools & new plugs (perhaps in a tool-tray). Remember which direction the socket-wrench switches to reverse/unscrew: wrench might not be visible when working back plugs.
Check fit of new plugs inside wrench-socket gasket.
If new plugs stick to rubber gasket, consider removing gasket with
screwdriver in square hole, to just use tape. Like taping screws to a
screwdriver, the socket can be taped to spark plugs (not the threads)
with scotch tape, for easy release once inside the engine. Otherwise,
have pliers to pry the socket off new plugs once installed.
Locate (with the help of your manual or a repair manual for your vehicle) the distributor spark-plug cables/wires.
The number of wires will be equal to the number of spark plugs your
engine has. Often these wires are red or black, and will be equally
divided on opposite sides of the engine.
Using masking tape, mark each of these wires for where they connect.
Don't rely on memory: if interrupted, easy to forget, and engine can
run rough with crossed plug wires. For 8 cylinders, deducing plug
connections is almost impossible (120 choices for 5 wires) -- in that
case you must contact an expert or study wiring guides.
Remove each spark-plug cable, pulling the caps (to avoid breaking cable wires). Caps should come loose by very intense twisting/pulling (avoid jerking/hitting fingers).
Using compressed air, pressurized engine cleaner, or a brush, clean all debris from around the plug.
Using a spark-plug socket, remove each plug from the engine, and replace each with a new spark plug. Don't over tighten (usually just 1/16 turn, after finger-tight).
Replace the spark-plug cables on the same plugs they originally came from, and remove the masking tape.
Remove tools near engine (beware the moving belts), close your engine compartment, and start your vehicle.
Make sure you did not close any of the gaps on the plugs completely. Make sure you did not swap wires. Worst case scenario may have a bad plug. Hopefully you didn't drop anything in the cylinder hole when changing the plugs.
could be a bad plug even know they are new one might be bad , first check in the dark for any arcing (blue sparks) coming from wires might be a split in one of the spark boots ,make sure on there good,also a chance you put wire to wrong cylinder