New engine (rebuilt), new Idle Air Control valve (AIS), Coolant Temp Sensor good, new O2 sensor, getting gas, getting spark, wiring in accordance with schematics on file at Mitchels sight, new distributor pickup, new coil, new wires. After the rebuild it started fine and went through the initial break in (15 mins at 1500rpms) fine then it started running rough at idle after about two minutes of running and would finally stall. I could keep it running if I maintained rpms at or above about 1500, but now it won't start at all. I've double and triple checked all wiring. Even went so far as to put in a rebuilt engine computer (SBEC), but so far notta.
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Re: 1992 Dodge Daytona cranks, but won't start
Sorry to hear this...
(been there.. done that) Seriously think I can help.
What I am going to suggest is based on my own travails...
For experimental purposes only... you DO NOT want to run your engine this way... beyond seeing if it makes a HUGE difference:
My guess: You still are STILL KNEE DEEP in DTCs
(diagnostic trouble codes: I was... (& I fancy I'm smarter than the average bear)). My '75 Ranchero (muffler) had no diagnostic help... Pure luck finding that... but the '95 Jaguar
V12 engine had TONS of DTCs to confuse me...
I could NOT find my trouble... and PAID DEALER prices to have my garage queen XJS repaired
Open the EXHAUST above the catalytic converter...
and then try to start it...
There are DIRECT fit exhaust units available from
both ROCKAUTO & AMAZON... if you find either of
these to be your issue... buy your parts locally or hire the
job out to the PROFESSIONALS,,,
but before you do... KNOW YOUR PRICES
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
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SHOWING MISFIRES ON SCAN TOOL?IF NOT,ENGINE CONTROLLER HAS NOT LEARNED MISFIRE MONITOR..WILL HAVE TO BE DRIVEN A BIT FOR RELEARN..IF YOU CAN SEE MISFIRES..MISFIRING ON MORE THAN 1 OR ALL CYLINDERS?CHECK UNDERSIDE OF IGNITION COIL FOR CRACKS..IF NOT CRACKED,YOU MAY HAVE A FAULTY CRANK SENSOR..ANY CORRODED PLUG WIRES AT DISTRIBUTOR CAP?ALSO CHECK IF ANY OIL PRESENT IN INTAKE MANIFOLD..GASKET ON BOTTOM OF INTAKE MAY BE BROKEN CAUSING AN INTERNAL VACUUM LEAK
If the engine seems to run fine over 1450 RPM maybe there is a vacuum hose leaking or EGR valve is slightly stuck open. Any help from the OBD II trouble codes? Or is there simply no MIL and no stored information in the OBD II computer read at the local parts store through the connector by the drivers knee?
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the egr would have a tube coming from the exhaust and usually bolts to the intake, the mass airflow would be in between your air filter and the inake plenum, but the car doesnt use these sensors untel its in closed loop it wont enter closed loop untill the ect(engine coolant temperature) and the o2(oxegen sensor) heater curcuit is up to temp i would check to se if you have spark and fuel if not check for pcm codes but i would probably start with the crank sensor or pcm the crank sensor is the common
If you have not done so pull the engine codes or have someone do it. The codes will give you a good idea where to start otherwise the first place I would check is replacing the Crankshaft Position sensor. This is not only very common for them to fail but I have 1994 Laredo and 1996 Laredo and both had the same trouble at exactly the same time. In addition I replaced the Intake Air Temp sensor, coolant temp sensor and idle air control valve on the 1994.
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find
The vehicle is starting and idling on the coolant and air temp signals sent to the compiter. It's running on what used to be called the chokecircuit. But now, instead of picking up idle speed until the hoke is kicked down, The new system with coolant temp and intake air temp the computer cuts the fuel back when it reaches operating temp. At this point the MAF (mas air flow sensor tells the puter the engine is running by the airflow through the intake.and maintains fuel in proportionate to create the proper air/ fuel ratio for the engine to idle. The more air that goes hauling **** down the intake duct, the more fuel there is made available. So, it sounds like the mass air flow sensor is not picking up on the low velocity ,low volume air getting to the engine. Now, This nasty MAF sensor is in one of the metal tube sections of the intake duct coming from the air filter. The wires sticking out of the tube will tell you which section you need to get at.. The sensor can be cleaned with CRC brand electrical spray cleaner.Was the sensor off completly with this spray only. Do not rub, brush or otherwise touch the sensor. Let it air dry which it will do quickly. Do not use cmpressed air. The sensor can be damaged easily because it has a flash self cleaning capabilit and is a sensitive air velocity and density sensor.. Clean the other ducting of dirt and dust there is but leave none of it loose to get into the engine and remember a new air filter. Good Luck and happy motoring. -Ned-