Re: 96 f350 diesel stops after warm like key turned off.
Several possibilities: 1) PCM or idm relays cutting out when hot, but said it's good, but double check anyway.
2) Possible IPR regulator o-ring, losing it's seal after oil gets thin, and or connector loose or bad from vibrations.
3) Possible cam sensor intermittent failure
4) Best to hook up a scanner and observe engine data to eliminate costly guesses.
5) High mileage vehicles, check ignition switch.
97 F-350 565 EFI Big Block
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When the fan is not working, does it not work in all speeds or does it only work on high speed? If high speed is all you have, the fan resistor is a likely culprit. If you have no fan operation at any speed, leave the switch on high (with the ignition key in the run position, of course), and smack the fan with a rubber mallet. If it starts working, the fan motor is on its way out and will need to be replaced.
Bad relay. Bad fuel pump. You can go to the fuse/relay panel under the hood and swap relays with another one like the A/C relay and try it.
Then the pump may have gone. One common cause is driving with 1/4 or less tank of fuel. Fuel in the tank is very important now days as it keeps the pump thatis inside the tank cool.
Also if you turn the key and don't hear the pump, wait a few seconds before turning it again. If you turn the key off and on too fast the system does not respond that fast.
Okay, If this noise happens when you turn the Key to start, your Starter Relay is bad. Now the other possibility is the Glowplug Timer. When you start a Diesel there is a pause in the initial cold start. You turn the Igniition Key to Run, then let the Glowplug Timer cycle. This cycle sound will be a series of clicks which also may cause the lights to dim.
The glowplugs absolutely must warm up to start a cold diesel engine. There should be a light on the dash which either goes off when the glowplugs are ready or a light will turn on when they are ready. It is only after that activity that you will turn the Key to Start.
Since Diesels take more power to Start, there are 2 batteries. As with a single battery system, every connection must be clean. If the Glow-plug Timer is working and you only get clicks by turning your Key to Start, check the things I said earlier. Your Starter Relay and the big cable connections.
If after all of that, the engine will not turn over and only clicks, jump the Starter Relay with 1 cable from a jumper cable set from the Positive Battery cable post to the Starter Relay on the Starter wire connector. Make sure the truck is in Park or Neutral. If the Starter jumper cable sparks and the Starter does not turn, the Starter is bad. If the Starter spins it confirms the Relay is bad.
I hope my Solution gets you going and that you consider this helpful.
this problem is most lickly do to a ipr regulator failling when hot
it is located on the hi pressure pump when this problem occured
try to cool it of with cold water (garden hose) if it restarts keep
hose on it to see if it runs longer if so replace ipr
something is heating up it could be the ignition relay or a bad ignition switch. relay can over heat and stop working this would take some time to cool down again, ignition can do the same some times you can feel the heat on the key when removed.
simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)
Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)
using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)
with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block
wiggle pump it should come straight off
clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry
silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump
apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )
use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight
use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry
Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system
there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods
loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough
crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
if so tighten #8 injector up
Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle
trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps
use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter
the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals
now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day