Sluggish on acceleration sounds like fan is running
Engine sounds louder than normal as if the fan is running or air is sucking. has now power what so ever. replaced fan clutch already you can hear the fan clutch disengage but still hear air rushing under hood.
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Most likey is just the sound of air being sucked into throttle body. Some vehicles make louder noises like that especially if it has an aftermarket cold air intake. Because the air filter box muffles that sound. It's possible that it has a vacuum leak as well which can make a sucking noise if it's large enough. Usually a large vacuum leak will affect the way an engine runs though
You need to check your High Air Flow Mass Sensor. If engine stays running when you unplug sensor. Then it's bad. This sensor controls how your throttle responds to your air flow from air box. If not reading good air flow at W.O.T. engine wont respond to Quick acceleration. NO POWER is what you'll get until engine begins to throttle up then it's now running on pure engine power but no throttle response. Try cleaning with carb cleaner or brake cleaner.
if you are running AC at high volume it takes more power to run everything. There fore you motor is working way harder. Try turning down the AC/heat/fan and see if motor doesn't sound more normal. Also if you are getting close to time to change oil it will sound louder until it is changed. You might want to check your air filter too, just to make sure it is getting enough clean air.
It very well could be a vac leak or a problem with the air filter box. If you can make the sound happen sitting in park, have someone listen around the engine compartment with a section of heater hose while you operate the controls.
Sounds like a MAP inlet Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor fault.
Symptoms of a faulty MAP
Poor starting/erratic idling/engine
stall - with the MAP not sending the correct inlet
air pressure signals to the ECU, incorrect fuel injection volumes then
result.The imbalance in the
fuel/air ratio often leads to rough engine performance and poor starting
and stall.The engine might be kept
running at start up by pumping the accelerator pedal
ceiling - the engine may seem to perform normally in
the lower rev range but will severely run out of power above about 3000
Poor fuel economy.The
ECU tends to supply an over rich fuel mix to the engine in the absence of
signal from the MAP resulting in very poor fuel economy. The reason for this is
that if the MAP has no signal this ECU assumes 'no vacuum' = fully open throttle = engine
is under load.To match this 'open
throttle' signal the ECU increases the injection cycle to supply more fuel
How to Check? The MAP has three electrical
pins, one for 12 volts (or 5 volts) reference, one for ground and the third
(the middle one generally) is the 'signal' output.Put a voltmeter positive connector on the 'signal'
pin of the connected socket (back probe by inserting a bit of wire).Apply suction to the vacuum input, even
sucking on it with your mouth, should result in a measurable voltage output.At normal air pressure (open throttle) the
voltage seen should be 0 volts.As
vacuum is applied the voltage output should change to about 5 volts (throttle
closed at idle).If no transition seen
the MAP is faulty.
Are you loosing power to the ecu when the car is shut down? most cars with an ECU that controls timing, fuel, or boost can be forced to relearn the car if the ECU looses power (called a "limp" mode). I'd look into this. Also are you getting any check engine lights? considering the description of the problem, this would help to diagnose. Try getting the car started and running normally, then turn the car off but do not kill the power to the car, just stop the motor from running...Fire the engine back up and try to give the car a good stomp on the gas and see if you get the same sluggish problems...my 2 cents... Good luck future auto DIY's
THERE ARE SENSORS FOR BOTH FANS THAT TELL THEM WHEN TO RUN & TURN OFF. ONE PRIMARILY RUNS WHEN YOU RUN THE A/C. THE OTHER RUNS WHEN THE ENGINE REACHES A CERTAIN TEMP. COULD BE THAT OR THERMOSTAT? IF THERES A LITTLE SCREW ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSE YOU UNSCREW THE AND GET THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A REPAIR IS MADE TO! (WATERPUMP) UNSCREW IT ALITTLE BIT WITH THE CAR RUNNING AND ALLOW THE AIR TO BE PUSHED OUT THE LITTLE HOLE ON THE SIDE OF THAT LITTLT SCREW. WAIT TILL ONLY ANTIFREEZE COMES OUT THE HOLE WITHOUT STOPPING. A STEADY STREAM. THEN RETIGHTEN THE SCREW.. YOU CAN CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOUR FANS AREN'T THE PROBLEM BY UNPLUGGING THEM AND RUN JUMPER WIRES TO THE BATTERY TO SEE IF THEY RUN! UNLIKELY ITS THE FANS BOTH AT THE SAME TIME.GO TO AUTOZONE.COM AND SIGNUP FREE WITH EMAIL AND PUT YOUR CAR INFO IN AND IT WITH SHOW YOU WHERE THE FAN SWITCHES ARE MOUNTED AND TEST THEM IF THERE IS A TEST. GOO HELP SIGHT!! HOPWE THIS HELPS CRAIG