Question about 1994 Honda Accord

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94 accord runs erratic at idle normal at high idle and snap test fixed vacuum hose leek remove map idles better but still high ????????????????

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  • c_fune Oct 01, 2009

    plugin egr didnt work still idles with loping and goes high and low

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  • Honda Master
  • 2,359 Answers

Check for

vacuum leaks on intake manifold,

the air tube between the air filter.

intake manifold vacuum hose.

===
clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner

SEE sample picture HERE
===

Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.

===

Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.

More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.

Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.

At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.

The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.

Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.

===

EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.

You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.

Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.

Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.

Remove the EGR valve.

Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.

SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.

You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.

RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.

One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.

Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.

Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.


Take it for a test drive.


Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.


Cheers,

Mustgo

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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Egr valve plug it at top with screw

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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Why is the engine running erratically?


the map sensor fail means (DTC code not stated sadly)
mean the voltage is stuck at 5v or 0v.
near
the ECU never lies about this, ever.
the ECU enters FAILSAFE mode , in this case. (limphome)
and runs rich has heck , horrid rich, misfires.
RPM limited
idle controls disabled.
and retarded spark timing.

pretty much worst of the worst for EFI ops.
all you need to do is post the DTC error. and all that is what matters.
new MAP time, or fix the vacuum hose. its clogged? cracked.
make sure the vacuum leaves the intake manifold (sucks) and
makes it all the way to the MAP on the fire wall and that the
tiny filter(check valve?) inline is clogged, (blown through it)

This is a G16A ENGINE, With an ECU that does not create or control spark, (old style distributor with mech, and vac, advance)

DTC 31 or 32??????????????????????
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes

if vacuum line is breached to map , the vacuum is not 0" HG
the MAP outputs 3.9V

the ECU trip points i do not know. but
above 3.9 or below .5v it will trip... somewhere,

here is very good map , graph

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/my-map.html


all testing of it is here
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/MAP-testing.html

with photos and how to back probe it with an volt meter.

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I have a 1995 toyota hilux-truck-22re ? 4 cylinder-idle speed up and down-500 to 1000 rpms- 1000 to 2200 rpms-no heat until idle speed levels off-whats the cause?


There is no "One" answer for this problem. You will need to run tests to confirm. What have you checked, tested, repaired, or replaced so far? Is the Engine Light on? If so, I need to know what the codes are. Please have them read. From you description, it sounds like your vehicle has a vacuum leak. The ECU is having a hard time controlling the idle. Check for vacuum leaks at hoses, the plenum, and brake booster. Check the EGR and Idle Air control valve. Check fuel-line pressure (check it with the engine off and compare it to the engine running). It is hard to test O2 sensors unless you know how to but you can remove them and do the "Shake Test". All you do is remove the O2 sensor and shake it next to your ear. If you hear a rattle noise, it is junk. It is possible that one or more fuel injectors are dirty, clogged, or worn (causing this issue). The more information you can provide me the better I can help you narrow this down, good luck.

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IAC valve @ throttle body regulates the air/fuel idle. its right in front of the throttlebody, replace it, MAP sensor works together with IAC, both could be your problem. everything else you did is good, I feel these items are necessary to put you back in bussiness, just do it !!!

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Engine Code P0108. The engine revs up high and back low about 10 times before idling normally when first turned on. then there is other idling issues when accelerating to hard or at a stop. Are there...


P0108 - MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input

The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor measures engine manifold negative air pressure. It's usually a three wire sensor: a ground wire, a 5 volt reference wire from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) to the MAP sensor, and a signal wire that informs the PCM of the MAP sensor voltage reading as it changes. The higher the engine vacuum, the lower the voltage reading. The voltage should range between about 1 volt (at idle) to about 5 volts (WOT wide open throttle).

If the PCM sees the voltage reading from the MAP sensor is greater than 5 Volts, or if the voltage reading is higher than what the PCM considers normal under certain circumstances, a P0108 DTC will set.


Symptoms of a P0108 DTC code may include:
* MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) will likely be on
* Engine may run poorly
* Engine may not run at all
* Fuel mileage may decrease
* Presence of black smoke at exhaust


Causes: Potential causes of a P0108 code:
* Bad MAP sensor
* Leak in vacuum supply line to MAP sensor
* Engine vacuum leak
* Short on signal wire to PCM
* Short on reference voltage wire from PCM
* Open in ground circuit to MAP
* Worn engine causing low vacuum


Possible Solutions
A good way to diagnose if the MAP sensor is to blame would be to compare the KOEO (key on engine off) MAP sensor reading on a scan tool with the Barometric pressure reading. They should be the same because they both measure atmospheric pressure.

If the MAP reading is greater than 0.5 volt off of the BARO reading, then replacing the MAP sensor would likely fix the problem. Otherwise, start the engine and observe the MAP reading at idle. It should normally be about 1.5 volts (varies according to altitude).

a. If it is, the problem is likely intermittent. Check all the vacuum hoses for damage and replace as necessary. You can also try wiggle testing the harness and connector to reproduce the problem.
b. If the scan tool MAP reading is more than 4.5 volts, check the actual engine vacuum reading with the engine running. If it is less than 15 or 16 in. Hg, then the PCM is probably not seeing enough vacuum (due to a worn engine, perhaps) for a given operating condition (which causes a higher than normal voltage signal to the PCM) and setting the code. Repair the engine vacuum problem and retest.
c. But, if the actual engine vacuum reading is 16 in. Hg or more, then unplug the MAP sensor. The scan tool MAP reading should indicate that there is no voltage present. Check that the ground from the PCM is intact and also that the MAP sensor connector and terminals are tight. If the connection is good, then replace the map sensor.
d. However if, with KOEO, & the MAP sensor unplugged, the scan tool shows a voltage reading, then there may be a short in the harness to the MAP sensor. Turn the ignition off. At the PCM unplug connector and remove the MAP signal wire from the connector. Re-attach the PCM connector and see if with KOEO, the scan tool MAP reading shows voltage. If it still does, replace the PCM. If not, check for voltage on the signal wire you just removed from the PCM. If there is voltage on the signal wire, find the short in the harness and repair.


Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

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