Need to install 2003 cherokee cross bars - 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

You won't know whether you'll have a problem with wind noise until you try it. I've driven 4 rack-equipped vehicles over the years. The only rack that made noise was the dealer-installed rack on an old vehicle, and that was ONLY during cold, misty weather (drizzle or very thick fog). What this shows is that wind noise can be a very finicky thing, as far as what causes it. That also means that if it occurs, you can probably come up with a trick to change the air flow which will stop it from happening (I've heard of tricks as simple as a spiral wrap of rope around the cross bar stopping wind noise, but I bet every situation is different). None of the other racks, including the boat rack for Subaru`s, which used 2x4s for the cross bars, made any noise that I could hear. In fact, the auxiliary rack for my current car (only used when needing extra width for two boats) also uses 2x4 cross bars, and it makes no noise.

I wouldn't use factory cross bars. There might be some good ones out there, but I haven't seen them. The general rule is to go with aftermarket bars, as well as the necessary bar-mounting hardware.

Some people love fold-down J-hooks, but since it only takes 30 seconds to remove them and about one minute to install them, why not just take them off, leaving bare cross bars? I take them off when not needed. I even take them off when parked by the river during a trip. After all, if I can remove both of them in 30 seconds using just my hands, so can a thief. Anyway, a folded-down J-hook is still a very bulky item to have up there compared to a bare cross bar.

Same goes for saddles. It takes only a moment to install or remove them, so if you want to keep air resistance to a minimum or not worry about the potential for wind noise, just drive with a bare rack when not carrying boats.

post engine size.
old post.

the battery will be on the passenger side front of the engine compartment. It is under the fuse block and cross bar.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

First, disconnect the negative black battery cable. The disconnect the red black battery cable.

The remove any cross bars or plates that can get in the way of pulling the battery out.

Disconnect the bottom battery hold down held on with a 13mm hex or 1/2" hex (same size essentially).

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Good luck to you.

The battery is under the hood, just behind the passenger headlight.
There is a black bar that crosses over the battery and goes back towards strut tower. Remove this bar and the three bolts; probably a 12 or 13mm socket.
Remove the negative (black) battery cable with an 8mm socket or wrench. A 5/16" should work also.
Then remove the positive (red) cable with same socket.
Remove the battery clamp and bolt. Probably a 12mm socket with extension.
It's tight, but the battery can be removed.
Reverse instructions for installing the battery. (That includes hooking up the red battery cable first, then the black cable.)

Had same problem with my 1996 Jeep, fuse 25 kept blowing. It was a short circuit in the transmission selector case. Seems to be a design fault where the wires for the light there, cross over a steel bar and get worn down every time you move the selector from park to drive and back. Bit of elect' tape fixed it.

That's usually easier to do if you remove one side rail.
There are usually six access holes in the rail that the screws go into. (pretty sure the screws are torx type) Once the rail is off, you can easily attach the cross bars and re-attach the rail to the roof. Ends of cross bars are held on with a screw that goes in from the bottom side. When replacing roof screws it is good to put a dab of silicone sealer on each screw hole to prevent rust or leaks.

Hey all,
I was able to get installation instructions for the cross bars from http://www.capitolhyundai.com and from http://dealerfit.com.  Thanks much to these folks for providing a pdf of these instructions free of charge!
Below is the text from the instruction set that worked best for me.  The other instruction set was nearly identical but it had an alternate Step 2 which involved using a small plastic pry bar.  I added that alternate Step below in the instruction step.  Hopefully I'm able to insert the image of each instruction set so that the Figures are visible.  Its actually not that easy getting the rear rail covers off and its pretty easy to crack them.  I'd recommend gently rocking the covers for a couple minutes in order to loosen them up.  Once you get the covers off, the rest of the install is a breeze and can be done in 2 minutes.  If you have questions, go ahead and contact me.  I also took several photos of my install and that might be helpul.  Cheers!
-LePig
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SANTA FE 2008 PIN U8210-28000 Cross Bar Assembly Installation Procedures
Kit Contents: • (2) Cross Bar Assemblies Required Tools: • Flat Head Screwdriver
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Carefully unscrew and remove radio antenna. 2. Grasp the rear rail covers with both hands. Squeeze and pull up & inwards (toward the center of the vehicle) to remove covers. Take care not to break off the tabs by lifting the rear section of the cover first (Figure 1). Be careful not to scratch, damage or dent any painted surfaces. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE VEHICLE BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. 2. - Alternate Method - Locate notch in rear of each cover to insert plastic pry bar.  Remove cover by prying up (with tool) and lifting rear at 45 degree angle (Fig 1). Be careful not to scratch, damage or dent any painted surfaces. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE VEHICLE BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. 3. Check assembly clips for damage and dislocation. Replace if necessary. 4. Open the lever on one side of front/rear cross bar. Gently set the cross bar, with the arrows facing forward, into the channel of the side rails (Figure 2). Guide both sides into the track. 5. To adjust cross bars, open lever and place cross bars in desired location. Close lever (Figure 3). Try to move bars forward/back until they lock into place. 6. Reinstall rear covers by holding cover at a 45 degree angle and inserting the front tab into the rear of the roof rack. After aligning, snap cover in place (Figure 4). Be sure that the rubber lip does not interfere with the covers, and that the covers are fully seated. 7. Reinstall the radio antenna. Note: To remove the cross bars, remove the antenna, remove the covers, open lever of cross bar and slide to end of rail. Hold down locking fingers (on both RH/LH rear rail supports) with a flat head screwdriver (Figure 5). This will allow removal of cross bars from the rails.

Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.