Question about 1998 Ford Explorer

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How to bleed a master clinder I have bleed the lines, but they are still spongy. i think there is air in the master clinnder ! and need to know how to fluse out a ford explorer 98

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If you got clean fluid out of all 4 wheels with no air, your master is good. That is where you keep adding fluid as you bleed them. Unless there is air in the ABS unit and I doubt you created situation ,you need to repeat the bleeding process . How are you doing it and do you have a helper?

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Air in the fluid master cylinder


Do you mean the brake master cylinder? As long as the fluid is at the full mark, and you have no air in the brake lines, it is fine. A spongy brake pedal and poor braking operation happens when air is in the lines. Air can get into the lines when the fluid in the master cylinder is very low, almost out, or when a brake line is pulled apart (like when replacing calipers). To get the air out, one has to bleed the brakes-starting at the rear tires-the longest run from the master cylinder-and ending at the driver's wheel -nearest the master cylinder. Opening the bleed valve at each wheel in turn and pumping the brakes will force fluid into the lines and push the air out the bleed valve. When done properly, all the air in the brake lines should be expelled, and the brake pedal returns to it's firm pedal and good braking efficiency.

Jul 10, 2012 | 1993 Toyota Supra

2 Answers

Brake pedal spongy after replacing master cylinder and bleeding the syster


There is still air, presuming all brakes are in good shape and adjusted correctly. One issue is master cylinder PRE BLEEDING. If you do not pre bleed the cylinder, you may never get all of the air out. Parts stores sell a kit that has flexible hoses that connect to the brake line connections and submerge the other ends in the MC reservoir, bleed until no bubbles and from that point DO NOT let the fluid get low in the MC, or start over again.
Doc

Feb 08, 2012 | 1996 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Brake light sensor won't turn off. After changing master clinder


You need to bleed the brakes there's probably air in the lines.

Oct 08, 2011 | 1994 Buick LeSabre

3 Answers

All of a sudden i have spongy brakes on my 92 f 250. changed master cyl and booster. and rubber brake hoses. still spongy and nothing is leaking.brakes went from being good to spongy in one...


Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.

Apr 30, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I replaced a brake line on my 1993 olds 98 and the brakes still don't work


Did you bleed the line for air? If the break line was by the master cilinder, got to bleed all 4 tires, otherwise, got to bleed the two front or two rear tires.

If you step on the brake and feels spongy, is probably air in the lines, if it feels hard check master cilinder, if you hear an air leak, check brake booster.

Mar 02, 2010 | 1993 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight

1 Answer

Spongy brakes on a 1992 honda civic


You have to bleed all the air out of the system, if you did then your rotors may need to changed. But if they are spongy it's air in the lines.

Aug 30, 2009 | 1992 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Spongy brakes


Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.

May 31, 2009 | 2000 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Spongy brakes


brake ;ines have air in the lines.
bleed brakes.Start with good
manul will worth more than ever
know

Dec 21, 2008 | 1988 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding


The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics

Aug 11, 2008 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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