I decided to call the local/regional non-official Toyota repair business on the off-chance that they would tell me how and why. They were very kind and obliged me. There is a serious amount of resistance on the driver-side axle due to a 'round' wire circlip embedded in a groove in the spline-end that is in the transaxle. It will release if enough prying/wedging effort is applied to the black cv housing...with care not to damage the aluminum transaxle case. I used any convienent bolt-head in the case as a fulcrum, and a stout prybar/flat-blade screwdriver as a lever. With a flushed-red face, a deep gutteral grunt, and a mighty heave, the axle gave up the fight and slid out like a good bowel movement. I regret that I could not use your services, but I have no credit cards. And the fact that $9 at this time is about enough gas for me to run for a week. Every penny counts out here in the wilds of western Montana. Thanks for being there, regardless. I will refer to you in the future when I am back on my feet. Warm regards. Michael aka peterjmoose.
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Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.
Jack up the vehicle and support it with a suitable jack stand.Remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheel assembly.Remove the brake caliper, then the brake caliper bridge and swing the caliper so it is out of your way.Then loosen and remove the axle hold down nut for the axle shaft.After that loosen and split the lower control arm from the spindle.Swing the spindle towards you and push the axle in so it falls thru the spindle.Then you can pry the axle swiftly out of the trans by using a firm prybar.You will hear a POP and the axle will release, this is normal.Be prepared with a drain pan to catch the trans oil.Installation is opposite of removal.Be sure to top off the fluid level when finished.Hope I could help, Rate me accordingly, Thanks!
are you talking about the drivers side trans-axle? if you are then it is the CV boot that is ripped, it is easier to replace the axle. Loosen lug nuts, jack car up, place on jack stands, remove tire, remove and suspend brake caliper, remove rotor, I believe it is like a 1 inch and 1/4 socket to remove the wheel bearing nut, the CV joint can be pushed through and then removed. Hope this helped
Jack up driver's side wheel,remove wheel,remove brake caliper,remove
rotor,remove large hub retaining nut,move hub out of the way,sometimes
need to remove upper control arm bushing,remove CV axle assembly
check your front wheel drive axles/half shafts, see if the rubber boots that cover the bearings are not torn or missing.. sounds like you might need to replace the axle/half shaft on the passengers side
ABS was optional on the 97 Camry CE - some have it, some don't. If your car is equipped with ABS, you should have an ABS indicator light on the dashboard, that goes on when you first turn the key in the ignition. But if you are not able to determine whether your car has ABS, it's not a problem. The axles compatible with ABS will also work if your Camry does not have ABS. They cost about the same as axles without ABS. So if you are not sure, just buy the axles for ABS.
Does the sound only occur when you're turning the wheel? If so, it may be a failing CV joint.. It could also be a loose drive axle connecting rod. My 97 Tercel CE had an unusual problem: there is a strange rubber/metal "donut" thing which is mounted on the main drive axle, mine came loose and was whacking around along the axle's shaft.
If you remove the passenger side front wheel, then take off the splash guard (two 10mm bolts on the side in the wheel well + two 10mm nuts on the front) you can see the drive axle. If the rubber/metal stabilizer donut has broken loose from the clips which hold it in place, then it will whack around regardless of what speed/direction you're going.
In my case, in the end I was too lazy to disconnect the drive axle and wheel assembly, so I just took some large zip ties and re-fastened the donut into approximately the proper place on the drive axle. That solved my problem, and it runs smoothly now.
Hopefully it's not your CV joint! Hope this helps.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Drain the transaxle fluid.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable. On vehicles equipped with an air bag, wait at least 90 seconds before proceedingBatteryAir cleaner assemblyThrottle cable from the throttle bodyCruise control actuator cover and connector, if equippedGround wireStarterSpeed sensor connectors, direct clutch speed sensor, and the park/neutral position switch connector on the transaxleSolenoid connector on the transaxleShift control cableOil cooler hosesFront side transaxle mounting boltsFront engine mounting boltsOil cooler line mounting bolts from the front frameUpper transaxle to engine mounting bolts
Fig. Tie the steering rack to the engine support fixture components, as shown-Avalon and Camry Front exhaust pipeEngine side covers and undercoversBoth halfshaftsFront side engine mounting nutRear side engine mounting bolts (remove hole plugs)Left side transaxle mounting boltsSteering gear housingFront frame assemblyRear end plate mounting boltsTorque converter coverTorque converter retaining boltsRemaining transaxle mounting boltsTransaxle