1991 bmw 318is 4 door 16 valve motor, runs hot and radiator cold
1991 bmw 318is 4 door 16 valve motor, new thermostat and housing replaced car was overheating, put a new one in and still no circulation radiator still cold even after the car started running hot, is there something else i should check, the water pump seems to be good no leaks and such, HELP PLEASE!!! i am so lost
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: 1991 bmw 318is 4 door 16 valve motor, runs hot and...
You may have bad waterpump,the impeller on pump may be borken, just because it doesnt leak doesnt mean its good.also could have exhaust entering cooling system (bad headgasket) if pump is good have a block test done.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the water pump and thermostat should have solved it. an air pocket can cause that but usually not to that degree.
don't get one of those cheap *** plastic impeller water pump for sissies. Get the metal impeller one. get a cool running thermostat and drill two 3/16" holes in it 180 degreess from each other. you may have installed the t-stat backwards.
1. Make sure the car is cold. Remove the radiator cap (press & turn about 1/4 turn to remove pressure in the system) Once the pressure is bled off you can remove cap and leave it rest on the filler opening.
2. Find the petcock on the radiator (the little valve attached to the radiator. You have to open/turn clockwise to drain the anti-freeze. Drain anti freeze below thermostat housing. About 1/2 to 1 gallon.
3. Have a catch basin for the anti freeze under the car. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator and thermostat housing.
4. Remove thermostat housing from engine block (usually two or three bolts in the thermostat housing). Scrap off ALL old gasket material from engine block. Double check and make sure all gasket material is removed from surface. If not the thermostat housing will leak.
5. Install new gasket with some high temp silicone. Place a couple of dabs on the thermostat housing and gasket (the silicone is used to keep the gasket in place) *MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL the thermostat the same way you took it out. Don't over tighten the thermostat housing bolts.
6. Remove the radiator cap and replace the anti freeze you removed (make sure the anti freeze is clean). Fill the radiator to the top of the filler neck and replace the radiator cap (push and turn the radiator cap to the right- like a pill bottle). Start the car and make sure the temperture guage goes up. The guage pointer should be in the middle of the guage.
7. Check the radiator reservoir for proper anti freeze level. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE CAR IS HOT!!! THE ANTI FREEZE IS HOT AND WILL BURN YOU.
possible coolant blockage in engine. Fan does not run because temp sensor is located is part of coolant that is not getting hot. Describe loud noise please. You are likely facing terminal engine failure, however, try back-flushing coolant passages on engine. This may be tricky, but you could remove thermostat and try running engine, or fabricate a rubber stopper on the end of a garden hose to put in hole where thermostat goes, remove lower radiator hose and flush water as hard as possible. A big rust flake could be blocking coolant flow. PS: have you recently had any work done on cooling system? I have seen some stupids use so much sealant when replacing a water pump that excess blocks coolant flow. Lots of luck. "The rusty one"