A month ago I had, continued.... Car was taken for evaluation. Service description: Pressure test cooling system, no leaks found. Coolant is full. Run block test, no hydrocarbons present in cooling system, no evidence of head gasket failure. Scan computer system, to find rear bank oxygen sensor inactive-oil contaminated. Remove & install exhaust pipe to find rear Turbo leaking. Does all this means the Turbo is dead? Is the car drivable? What should be done? Who can do it without it costing a fortune? Their estimate was $2000.00, not Mitsubishi, a repair place near by.At 78000 miles, is this a hopeless case and ''more'' is to happen? Please advice - definitely not rich. Maria
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Re: A monrg ago I had, continued....
If it drives, then it is driveable. if the turbo is leaking exhaust, it is not necessarily dead, but it is likely not functioning up to it's potential, but it depends how severe the leak is. The bigger the leak, the less drive the turbo has to spin itself up. The vehicle can function just fine indefinitely w/ a completely non-functioning turbo. The turbo is a really cool device, but it's about as essential as your floormats. As far as the price goes, does that $2000 include a new turbo? If so, is that really necessary? if it's just the turbo's gasket leaking you should be able to get away w/ just a gasket to fix the leak. A turbo can be a messy replacement if it is needed as it is the single hottest component in the whole car (it actually glows red when it's working hard since the turbine can spin up to 140,000 rpm). Anything that gets that hot tends to degrade the bolts and nuts that hold it in place over time. If you do decide to do this, keep in mind that there is a matching turbo on the front bank of that motor that is the same age and could potentially be near having the same problem. As far as the O2 sensor goes, it increases your gas mileage by making your engine run more efficiently. O2 sensors go bad over time, and if you're not seeing blue oil smoke coming out of the tailpipe, i wouldn't worry too much about the oil-contamination issue.
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Did you bleed the air from the cooling system as outlined in the factory service manual? Has the radiator been cleaned by a professional radiator repair shop, is the head cracked? You had it tested for cracks? It is one of these most likely that is causing the problem or a combination of them.
It sounds like you have a leaking engine cylinder head gasket. Have these two things done have a cooling system pressure test run on the car and also have the coolant recovery tank checked with a gas analyzer for combustion gases from a leaking head gasket.
Symptom Diagnosis Test 4 - Cuts-Out Or Misses Condition Preliminary Checks Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:
All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integritySearch for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom. Test 4 Chart
Description Verify Cuts-out condition Start the engine and attempt to
verify the Cuts-out or misses condition. Does the engine have a cuts-out
condition-Check for any stored codes. If codes are set, repair codes and retest. If no codes are set, go to Step 3.Go to Step 2.
Description Condition does not exist! Inspect various underhood items
that could cause an intermittent Cuts-out condition (i.e., EVAP, Fuel or
Ignition system components). Were any problems located in this step-Correct the problems. Do a PCM reset and "Fuel Trim Relearn" procedure. Then verify condition is repaired.The problem is not present at this time. It may be an intermittent problem.
Description Check/compare PID values Connect a Scan Tool to the test
connector. Turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to
fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool (i.e., ECT IAC
Counts and LONGFT at idle). Were all PIDs within their normal range-Go
to Step 4. Note The IAC motor should be from 5-50 counts. Watch fuel
trim (%) for a large shift into the negative (-) range (due to a rich
condition).One or more of the
PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs
to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom.
Test 4: Cuts Out or Misses Condition (Continued) Test 4 Chart (Continued)
Description Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of
spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark
output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine
analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system-
Make repairs as needed
Go to Step 5.
Description Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for
leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of
the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system-
Make repairs as needed
Go to Step 6.
Description Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or
damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or
Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not
exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust
Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom.
Go to Step 7.
Description Check the PCV System Inspect the PCV system components for
broken parts or loose connections. Test the operation of the PCV valve.
Were any faults found in the PCV system-Make repairs to the PCV system. Refer to the PCV system tests. Then retest for the condition.Go to Step 8.
Description Check the EVAP System Inspect for damaged or disconnected
EVAP system components Check for a saturated EVAP canister. Were any
faults found in the EVAP system-Make repairs to EVAP system (use the EVAP tests in this manual). Retest for the condition.Go to Step 9.
Description Check the AIR system Inspect AIR system for broken parts,
leaking valves or disconnected hoses (see graphic). Test the operation
of Secondary AIR system. Were any faults found in the AIR system-Make repairs as needed. Refer to the Secondary AIR system tests. Retest for the condition.Go to Step 10.
Description Check Engine Condition Test the engine compression. Test
valve timing and timing chain condition. Check for a worn camshaft or
valve train. Check for any large intake manifold leaks. Were any faults
found in the Base Engine-Make
repairs as needed to the Base Engine. Refer to the Base Engine tests.
Then retest for the condition when repairs are completed.Go to Step 2 and repeat the tests from the beginning to locate and repair the cause of the "Cuts Out or Misses" condition.
Sadly as vehicles age things like gaskets, seals, hoses and such items become brittle and weak - They are prone to failure and are listed as "check or replace " in the manufacturers service tables at mileage and-or time. The leak may be any item associated with the cooling system, a pressure test should find it. I recomend you have the cooling systems hoses replaced to prevent problems when the leak is repaired.
check the coolant temp sensor , fuses , relay and fan for operation if electric fans
if manual fan replace the viscous fan hub
have a pressure test done on cooling system to check for cracked tanks or other leaks
over 5 years old and never changed the water conditioner (antifreeze/boil concentrate ), consider replacing the radiator
The cooling fan on the LS-V8 is hydraulic yes. But it also has a pressure switch on the pump that drives the fan. It is controlled by the temperature sensor. All these things must be taken into account. But the whining sound my lead me to believe that the pump is either low on fluid or is wearing out. The fluid the fan pump uses is the same as the power steering pump container so check it first. The same thing happened to my wife's Lincoln. I replaced the fan as well because everybody told me to do that but it didn't work. I found out that the fan is just a hydraulic motor in reverse it only spins as fast as the pump makes it spin and that is controlled by the temp. sensors. When the engine get's hotter the pressure goes up and the fan spins faster. This adds more power to the engine when it's running cooler because the fan doesn't have to spin at max speed. So good luck. I hope this has solved your problem.