1998 ford taurus my power windows and door locks only getting 4 v

More info needed. Is this a front door or a rear door? If a front door, you need to remove the plastic interior trim panel for access. With the interior panel removed, temporarily reinstall the window switch to raise the window glass. Look inside the door at the lower rear corner. You will see the lock actuator there. It's mounted on a steel U shaped bracket. It has a black rubber boot over it and a rod going up to the door latch. You may need to remove the bolt holding the steel U channel which guides the rear of the window, for improved access to the lock actuator. Unsnap the retaining clip for that rod at the latch mechanism. The U shaped bracket is riveted into the door frame. You will need a 3/16" or 1/4" cobalt drill bit [available at Ace Hardware] to drill out the retaining rivet(s). Partially remove the actuator for better access to the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the actuator. Reverse this process to install the new actuator. You can use a Nyloc nut, washers and a bolt to mount the new actuator if you don't have a rivet gun and the proper sized rivet(s) to remount the new actuator.

Yes, there could be a connection, test your Fuses.

It is also a Taurus and have numerous problems also....

you are going to need to test the systems, but I would start under the hood and test the fuses

do they not work only with the driver's control or at all the controls? if it's only the driver's control then you need to see if the control is getting juice. on an older car sometimes the wires that go from the body to the door (the ones with the rubber bellows between the door hinges) will break from constant flexing. or if you've got a security lock button sometimes it will jam in the locked position and won't allow any of the other controls to work.

it may be the switch in the door or the wiring in door or fuse . I would check fuse if it is good . the I wood take panel off inside door then check connections if all is good get a meater an check switch if switch is good check power to switch .

bad fuse inside car not under hood.check beside dash @ driver door
look for power window fuse

either your lock and window motors went out at the same time or you may have broken wires in the door harness inside that rubbe sheath you see in the door jamb by the hinges you will have to remove the sheath to check

check the fuses in the car under the dash on driver side ,only other thing it could be is the power wire in the driver door jam could have a broken ground that is one way it would affect all the windows.

chances you have a broken wire in door jamb harness

Well I was wrong, the window on pass side worked from the switch on the pass door !! So now that I know this I took apart the driver side door switch controll panel ( ie. 4 windows switch up/down & 4 door lock / unlock switch) I found 12 volts to the door lock section but NO 12 volts to the window section ( with key on) !! ratheer then trying to trace out this wire (oange) I took 12 volts from the door & jumpered it to the window 12 volt supply { now I know the door wire is thicker ( more amps) then the window supply but I dont't think I'll be useing all 4 window moters at once...} oh well what the hell it's almost 20 years old has three sets of seats & gets close to 28 MPG....
****,,,,

try checking your relays