Question about 1987 Ford Thunderbird

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87 Thunderbird I took it in and had the struts replaced and a new brake line put on. I picked it up - started it - the flange was now rotted and needs replacing and it won't shift or go beyond 37-38 km/hr. Is it the transmission or manifold? And how could this have happened while in the shop?

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How to replace rear shocks on a 86 Toyota celica gts?

This procedure can be found at You can register for free, listing make, model, year, and engine size. Find procedure under "repair guides". Good illustrations, too.
1. On liftback, remove rear speaker grilles. On coupe, remove suspension service hole cover or the speaker board (on rear deck by back window).

2Drum brakes or disc brakes? No matter: Do not break apart the brake lines. There is a clip on the strut to hold the brake line and it's connection to the rubber brake hose. Take the c-clip off and cut the brake line retainer with a hacksaw (careful of the brake line and hose). This way you won't have to worry about bleeding the brakes when done. Take the line out of the strut retainerclip. When re-installing, just use a zip tie to hod the brake line secure.
3. Loosen, but don't remove, the 19mm nut holding the suspension support to the strut (this is the larger center nut on top of strut at the deck by rear window.
4. Disconnect stabilizer bar at lower end of strut housing. You will need a 14mm wrench and a 3/16 (or equivalent metric size) allen wrench to hold the link steady while removing the nut.
5. Disconnect strut at the axle carrier-17mm size bolts.
6. At top, remove the three strut to body nuts-size 13mm., and remove the strut.
To put your new struts inside the coil spring, you will have to have a spring compressor. I don't have one, so after removing strut, took to a shop for that, cost was $20 for one side. Picked it up and installed it myself.
To install: Position assembly and tighten the upper strut to body nuts to 23 ft. lbs.
2. Tighten lower strut-to-carrier bolts to 119 ft. lbs..
3. Connect stabilizer bar to strut. Tighten the nut to 26 ft. lbs.
4. Tighten top strut holding nut to 36 ft. lbs. (the shop had already done this for me) and install dust cover.
5. Reconnect brake line and hose, and bleed the brakes, if you broke the line apart. If you didn't break the line apart and just cut the clip retainer, you will not have to bleed the brakes.
6. Lower the car and have rear wheel alignment checked.

If you have a spring compressor, and can do that procedure yourself, the instructions for it are found at, along with the above that I have outlined.

Jun 03, 2012 | 1986 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

87 thunderbird some times starts but quits when put into geer

check your contact points are set correctly, or may even be burned , if so replace them , its a comon thing if the contact points are badly set ,when you put the car in gear it will stall or wont idle , i had a 67 t/bird landau that did exactly the same , , turning off the highway was a night mare ,i had to keep the accelerator pressed while i braked , otherwise it would stop and then i would have no steering ,very annoying and very dangerous

Feb 16, 2012 | 1987 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

1997 ford thunderbird pulls right while driving at any speed, and pulls left while braking. The alignment is all good, pads are new, tires are new, ball joints and tie rods are tight, struts are good. any...

Possibly a right caliper not releasing, either a frozen caliper, or a bad rubber brake hose on the right front. After driving the vehicle, put your hand on or near the center of both front wheels and check for differences in temperature. If the right side is hotter, start checking caliper and hose.

Sep 04, 2011 | 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX

1 Answer

How do you change the rear struts? Top strut bolts are hidden cant find them

The following information is specifically for a 1998 Mercury Mystique. We just replaced the rear struts on my son's 1998 Mercury Mystique yesterday.
1. The Mystique's rear strut assembly is fastened at the top with only two (2) bolts, period, and these are accessed from below. They are 10mm bolts, only, no nuts, and bolt into threads built into the frame.
2. We found you must disconnect the brake lines from the wheel hub thing, period, in order to get that whole bit to drop low enough to install the new strut assembly.
3. As well, you must at least disconnect, if not just replace (~$9) the sway bar links.
4. Do not bother with any spring compressors as they will not help (you can't leave them on the assembly AND fit it up into the tower).
5. After doing the above and dropping the wheel thing as low as possible, we first bolted the assembly by the top bolts up in the tower.
6. Then we used the car's jack to jack the wheel thing upward, easing it onto the bottom end of the strut until the flange hole at the back of the strut aligned with the pinch bolt hole; along the way, though, I believe when the alignment was right for it, we reconnected the new sway bar linkage.
7. Then reconnected the brake line assembly.
8. Note, although it was probably a metric size (18 or 19 mm?), we used a 1/2" drive, 3/4" socket and had to put a section of pipe on the wrench to loosen the pinch bolt.
9. Don't forget to spray PB blaster on things the night before, and to spread some, to the extent you are able, the pinch bracket or whatever it's called.

Aug 23, 2011 | 1998 Mercury Mystique

2 Answers


Hello dedime,

1. Remove the nuts and bolt attaching the top of the strut assembly to the body.

2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.

3. Place jack stands under the front cross member.

4. Lower the vehicle slightly so that the weight of vehicle rests on the jack stands and not on the control arms.

Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the drive axle joints from being over-extended. When either end of the shaft is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of the internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joint boot protectors should be used any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or boot damage and possible joint failure.

5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

6. Remove the brake line bracket.

7. Scribe the strut flange.

Important: The steering knuckle must be supported in order to prevent axle joint over-extension.

8. Remove the bolts and the nuts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

Notice: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.

9. Remove the strut from the Vehicle.

Installation Procedure

Notice: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.

1. Install the strut into position and install the nuts and one bolt connecting the strut to the body. Hand tighten the nuts and the bolt.

2. Align the steering knuckle with the strut flange scribe mark and install the bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).

3. Tighten the nuts and bolt attaching the top of the strut to the body. Tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).

Tighten the bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).

4. Install the brake line bracket.

5. Install the tire and wheel assembly.

6. Inspect the front wheel alignment.



Feb 22, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

How difficult it is to replace front struts on a 2003 subaru legacy wagon? I have done shocks and many other car repairs, but this would be the first experience with struts. Anything to look out for...

  • 1 Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. While the vehicle is raised, remove the wheel and tire. This will give you access to remove the two lower bolts and nuts from the strut. Remove the upper flange retaining bolts.

  • 2

    Slide the strut spring assembly out from the vehicle. Using a strut spring tool, collapse the spring. Remove the center nut, upper bearing flange assembly and collapsed spring. Discard the old strut and replace with new strut. Discard the upper nut and replace with new nut. Do not release the spring tool from the spring.

  • 3

    Install collapsed spring with tool in place onto the new strut. The spring does not need to be replaced unless it is broken. Be sure to note the position of the spring ends on the strut. Install upper bearing flange, making note of the position of the spring end on the flange. Install center nut and tighten to specs. Then remove the spring tool.

  • 4

    Put the completed strut and spring assembly back onto the vehicle. Tighten nuts and bolts to manufacturer specifications. Install the wheel and tire. Lower vehicle.

  • good luck

    Oct 29, 2010 | 2003 Subaru Legacy

    1 Answer

    How to instll front struts on 1998 Ford Escort?

    You "do not" need a strut spring compressor to change the struts on a 1998 ford escort.

    Place the front of the car on jack stands, and remove the front tires.

    Disconnect and remove the 2 bolts (at the bottom of the strut) that attach the strut to the knuckle (you may need air impact to break them free).

    Remove the brake lines from the line retainer on the strut: If you open the brake lines you will need brake fluid, and need to bleed the brake system (to avoid opening the brake system, cut the line retainer from the old strut).

    Inside the hood remove the circular cap that covers the top retaining nut on the strut. Remove the top retaining nut, then remove the strut.

    Install new struts in reverse. To align the new strut to the knuckle, use a screwdriver to start the aligment, then insert the retaining bolts. If you cut the brake line retainers from the old struts, use plastic zip ties to attach the brake lines to the new struts.

    May 05, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

    2 Answers

    Need to replace drivers side strut on 92 Toyota Previa,how much of lower dash to remove and how,got three screws by hood latch and int panel dimmer.Also took column collar off but still no access

    The drivers side bolts can be accessed by pulling out the guage cluster and some of the ductwork. It's a tight fit but can be done. The passenger side on models without the airbag is accessed by going through the glove box. 
    You can get to the top of the R Front shock tower bolts (14mm allen x 3) by removing the Airbag and glove box assemblies... there's barely enough room to get to those bolts. the deepest nut is going to be really hard to get out, but prevailed eventually. A time consuming project, but worth while.

    As for the break lines: You don't have to take them apart if you try this trick.
    First you need to remove the clips that hold the brake lines to the strut supports.

    After the clips have been removed there should be enough play in the lines to shift the fittings out of the supports.

    I use bolt cutters to make two cuts in the brake line supports about 1/4" apart. Remember to do the same to the new struts.

    The brake line should just slide right out. When you put your new struts on the brake lines will slide in the slots you put in.

    When you reasseble the brake lines to the supports the clip will hold the fitting tight even with the slot cut into the support.

    Good luck and hope this helps. 

    Apr 23, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Previa

    2 Answers

    87 t bird will not idle changed fuel pump changed egr plugs rotor arm and the throttle sensor i just put a code reader on the car and its telling me its the throttle position sensor-signal out of self-test...

    The Tp Senser Was Installed Incorectly And The Sensor Is Internally Broken or the metal that turns the sensor is bent or rotted away or the bace idel screw yas turned out of speck.

    Mar 04, 2009 | 1987 Ford Thunderbird

    2 Answers

    Installation of strut/coil spring in the front of my car

    Ouch, i dont see where a rack would help there, you shouldnt have a problem.....try moving the spring compressor or turning it around to where its not in the way. GL

    Feb 01, 2009 | 1990 Ford Thunderbird

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