Disk brakes require no bleeding or adjustment, assuming that you did't open the system and allow any air to enter the system.
Drum brakes do require adjustment after being changed, you can adjust them from the back side of the drum.
You only have to bleed brakes if you opened the hydraulic ciruit i.e, changed a caliper. If you just put pads on you should be O.K.. If you have drum brakes in the rear they may requirre adjustment. Lee
SOURCE: Is the brake booster going out?
Let me know what you find out. I get the same whoosh/pedal travel, and at this point have NO braking at all. I am also losing fluid nearly as fast as I can put it in if I use the brakes, but I can't find where it's coming out. I even drove on clean snow and don't see any fluid tracks...
Oddly enough if you are going to do it yourself, gmpartsdirect seems to have the best prices for OEM parts.
I am assuming that my rusted/pitted brake lines have failed me. Aaahhh the old money pit.
SOURCE: i've installed new front brake pad on 2000 Series L saturn.
try adjusting the rear shoes on this car. The auto adjust rust up and stop adjusting after a while of not adjusting your pedal will go down lower than it should because your basically stopping with front brakes only.
SOURCE: Brake pedal goes nearly to
I would go with not bled correctly
The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake
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