Question about 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck

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Lack of boost pressure

I turned off my truck and when I started it again the check engine light was on and I am unable to get boost pressure from the turbo, wont go above 5psi. I made sure all the clamps were tight and everything appears to be hooked up properly. its a 2005 Dodge diesel.

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There is a reset on the turbo you can press that might do it it's a yellow buttion I believe but you should take it to the auto parts store and get the to read the codes in the computer

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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If all power is lost in the car, it could indicate a bad battery connection, bad wiring, or loose main wire harness, etc.

If a warning light comes on - it may be going in to Safe Mode.

Safe mode is the set of parameters that the car will use if it believes there
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Generally it is an excess in expected boost pressure entering the engine.
This excess boost from the turbo tends to happen for 4 reasons.

The boost pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is faulty.
The wastegate is seized shut or slightly open.
The wastegate actuator is faulty.
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Initially I would suggest disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes (make sure you know your
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In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

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This could also be Safe mode, the below text may help you.

What Is Safe Mode?

Safe mode is the set of parameters that the car will use if it believes there
is a fault with the engine that could cause irrepairable or long term damage.

How Can I Tell If It Is Safe Mode?

If your car suddenly lost power but before that you didn't notice any problems.
If there isn't vast plumes of smoke coming from the exhaust.
If the oil level is OK. If you had all 3 of those, it is almost certainly safe mode.

What Causes Safe Mode?

Generally it is an excess in expected boost pressure entering the engine.
This excess boost from the turbo tends to happen for 4 reasons.

The boost pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is faulty.
The wastegate is seized shut or slightly open.
The wastegate actuator is faulty.
The air line to the wastegate actuator is damaged or off.

Obviously, if the sensor is faulty, it will tell the ECU lies about the boost pressure.
If the wastegate assembly fails in any way it will fail to open to bypass the turbo.
The turbo will continue to spin up, increasing the boost pressure, causing the fault.

How Can I Fix It?

Initially I would suggest disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes (make sure you know your
radio code before doing this), this will turn safe mode off and your car should run normally
again. Drive home with a bit of care, you may find the car might never do it again. If it does
go into safe mode again, you know you have a real problem and not just a glitch.

Wait for the car to cool down and see if the wastegate arm moves freely.
Use the search function of the site for "wastegate service" to see how
you can possibly free up the wastegate assembly which could be seized.

Check the pipe work to and from everything to rule out leaks.

Try and borrow a MAP sensor to test.

As a last resort, book in with a smart specialist who will diagnose the problem

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