Question about 1998 GMC Sierra
I have a 1992 GMC Sierra 1500 P/U with a 4.3L engine. A year ago the emergency brake pedal snapped about 1/2 way up from the bottom. I welded it but it snapped off again and it must be replaced. How difficult is it to replace the pedal? The cable is fine, just the pedal is snapped in half.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the hardware for the drum emergency brake inside the the rear disc brakes, these pads are for your emergency brake, there should be an adjustment bolt that just sits between the two pads. Also, check the cables running to this set of pads to make sure they were connected properly. After you have checked the drum emergency brake, follow the cables in the undercarriage and look for the point at which they combine to another single cable, this is the point where the actual cable pressure adjustment is located.
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
First thing unhook positive battery cable, unhook main cable on starter selanoid and small wire on selanoid (there may be 2 small wires) There may be a bracket on front of starter that has to be removed, and then the 2 main bolts that hold it to engine block and it should come out.
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
your heat/cool and vent selection options are controlled by engine vacuum through small clear tubes attached to the rear of your climate control interface. Other vehicles have small steel pull wires that operate the desired changes. You might try removing the trim and any fasteners affiliated with the interface/console. GENTLY pull outward and look to see if any of these tubes are pulled off or cut/damaged. Did anyone recently install a new stereo in the vehicle? If so, the vacuum tubing and or pull wires that change your outlets could have been damaged when the stereo unit was pushed into place. Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Very good information. THANKS!"
It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
To check the booster,
With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
Testimonial: "Hadn't thought about the O-rings on the rod thanks for the idea. Great Idea Thanks!"
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