Question about 1998 Subaru Legacy
Finding/Replacing 1998 Legacy StarterTo find the starter on any car, follow the heavy lead from the positive terminal on the battery. A dedicated cable will connect to the starter.
The starter is at the back of the engine compartment, driver's side, accessible from the top.
Begin by unhooking the negative lead of the battery; the positive supply to the starter is unswitched and will be hot otherwise.
There are two main bolts holding the starter in place. Remove the positive cable from the lug by removing the nut and washer, and pull off the ignition switch lead (these are next to each other on the upper side). The ground cable is attached to a bracket that is held on by the upper attachment bolt. When you remove the upper bolt the cable and bracket will be free. Leave bracket attached to the ground strap.
The upper bolt is 14mm, the lower nut (which goes on a stud that stays in place) is 17mm. You will need several different size socket-wrench extensions (I used two 3" extensions on bottom and one on top) to get in a position to work. (It would, at minimum, take a lot of patience to do this with a wrench.) The order in which the bolt and nut are removed doesn't appear to be important.
The nut on the underside can't be seen from above, so must be done "blind." Look at the replacement starter to see where the nut will be, and what the shape of the casing is around it. Small hands are an advantage here.
There's not a lot of room to work, and it's hard to get enough leverage, so you will a small length of curved metal electrical conduit very handy as a cheater bar. (Real mechanics should get a chuckle out of that.) In replacing the bolts, they really should be torqued to specifications, but I used the "pretty tight plus a half turn" approach. Hard to imagine getting a torque wrench in there, unless you happen to have a power ratchet with a torque setting - in which case, you shouldn't need any advice.
As always, get both the bolt and the nut snugged up before the final tightening. It is not necessary to worry about the alignment of the part, which is accomplished by the stud and bolt. Replace the positive cable and the ignition lead.
Check and see if you've knocked any hoses off (there are several right in the way); The last step is to replace the negative battery cable. The running lights will begin to flash when the battery is reconnected. This is normal (some sort of anti-theft thing, I think) and will stop when a button on the keyless entry is pressed.
The job will take about 30 minutes if you are skilled, perhaps 90 minutes if you're at the "oil change" level of competence. If you can't put a washer and nut on by feel, then you might get stuck in the middle of the operation
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
Disconnect battery,remove air intake chamber and bracket now you can access top bolt which also has ground cable attached its a 14 mm.disconnect cable at starter solenoid 12mm nut, remove connector in back of solenoid black 1 pin,depending on production date you will either have a 14mm nut or a 17mm nut holding the bottom end of starter in ,once removed starter can be removed from top
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Do you hear a 'click' when the key is turned to start? Have someone try the key while you listen under the hood. It should be the starter solenoid clicking. You need either a test light or voltmeter to test further. One large terminal on the solenoid has the large wire from the battery positive, and should always show voltage/light at all times. Test the other side of the solenoid (large terminal) that is connected to the terminal on the starter motor. It should show light/voltage when the key is turned. If it doesn't, the solenoid must be replaced. If it does show light/voltage, then the starter motor is defective (probably brushes). If you get no click when turning the key, test the small terminal on the solenoid, you should see a voltage/light change when the key is turned. If you see a change, but no click, the solenoid coil is open or the case of the solenoid is not grounding where it is mounted. Try loosening the mounting and re-tighten. If no help, replace the solenoid. If you see no change at the small terminal, remove the wire from it and using a spare piece of wire, touch the small terminal to, first, the large terminal that the battery is connected to, then to the the mounting bolt for the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, the starter should operate with one of these two tests. In that case, the starter position of key switch is open--replace the ignition switch.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
I had a similar problem when I bought my used 99 Legacy. The dealer was going to replace the sun roof, but never followed through. Mine would open every now & then. Once when I got it opened, I cleaned the rubber gaskets with silicon lubricant. Since then the roof has always opened for me. That was 3 years ago, and it is still works every time!
Posted on Sep 26, 2008
Ok here's a couple helpfuls before i start if you have PB Blaster, that works great on spindle bolts. Another thing you will need is a long pry bar (maybe a crowbar if you had to) with a flat tapered end. You will need to remove your tire, spray the PB Blaster on the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts going through the strut.remove the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts, and seperate the strut from the spindle. Then swing the spindle and push down on it as you remove the axle spline from the hub. Once you do that, check the transmission side of the axle, to see if it has a "doul roll pin" that you need to tap out with a hammer and punch, but it may be the simple locking ring internaly at the end of the splined shaft. Then all you do is pry it back, make sure you have a very firm place to use for leverage, and give it a hard shove and it should pop right out. or you may need to repeat the prying step a few times. When installing the new axle, make sure it's snapped in completely on the transmission side so you don't damage it. Then all you need to do is reassemble it all.
Also when doing this, make sure you support the car by the body, behind the front wheel under the fender/door area. you will need to let the lower controal arm hang to do this.
Hope that does it for you,
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
If your havinf any trouble I suggest you can pick up a repair manual from any part store and if you feel like spending around $26 you can get alldata online for you car for a year I just did it for some wiring diagrams and it helped me out bigtime good luck
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
yes that is correct, remove glovebox , metal bracket in front ( mark which way round this bracket goes it will go back wrong and glove box wont fit ) , unplug electrical plug from heater motor, unscrew 3 bolts/screws from motor replace in reverse..30 min tops..
Posted on Nov 15, 2009
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