Question about 1990 Chevrolet Corvette

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What port is for front brakes on a 4 port master cylinder

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Follw the brake lines

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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I have a 1985 dodge ramcharger replaced calipers master cylinder all rubber hoses and when we b;eed the brakes we have pedal but it locks the front wheels like the brakes are on


If the brakes release after the front bleeder is open the fault is at the master cylinder, Adjust the brake rod to master cylinder piston so there is at least 1/16 inch free play, the master cylinder bucket is covering the oil return port.

May 07, 2017 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

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I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

1993 4wd. Why aren't brakes working?


Does the brake pedal go to the floor? Or does it stay up, and is hard to push...? Did you bleed the master cylinder? Also, you will need to bleed all 4 wheels connection to the brake wheel cylinders...you must start with the rear, farthest from the master cylinder, then other rear, then front farthest from the master cylinder, then other front...the bleeding of each line is a must, since you switched the master cylinder.

Sep 14, 2015 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

What could be the problem? I replace my master cylinder now my brakes drag after driving it a few miles


A few things to check, Is the brake fluid returning to the master cylinder at rest ?, To test jack up one wheel, is it hard to turn, if so slacken off the bleeder screw fluid should be expelled, did the wheel free up, if so the fault is at the master cylinder, check the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder has free play, if not adjust it, if ok there is a fault with the master cylinder buckets swollen or return port blocked. If no fluid was expelled and the wheel is still binding check for frozen wheel cylinder pistons.

Jul 10, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace mastercylinder'


The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal. The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.
  • 1 Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
  • 2 Open the hood and prop it up with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
  • 3 Locate the fluid-level sensor connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
  • 4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
  • 5 Remove the bolts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your vehicle's painted surfaces.
  • 6 Verify that the rubber O-ring seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install the master cylinder.
  • 7 Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
  • 8 Depress the brake pedal a number of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
  • 9 Thread the brake lines into the proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it. Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor. Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting. Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this process on the rear port.
    Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top

Oct 05, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

1971 chevy 3/4 truck, front disc and back drums, i lost all brakes. Thought it was the master cylinder because the rear master cylinder port emptied itself of all fluid and no leaks on the rear wheel...


to bleed the brakes & should be done w/proportioning valve in place - you start at farthest corner - right rear, left rear, right front and left front.... If you suspect proportioning valve you can pick them up cheap at any salvage yard.

Feb 21, 2011 | Chevrolet 2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Brake liones to master cylinder


front goes to nearest the pedal. rear goes to nearest the front of the master cylinder

Jun 10, 2008 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

Brake lines to master cylinder


What model master cylinder have you installed?

Jun 10, 2008 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

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