Question about 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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The rear driver side brake is making a grinding noise when i turn or come to a slow stop. i changed the caliper rotor and pads and it is still grinding it looks like the bracket on the caliper is rubbing the rotor dono what else to do??????

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You'll need to compare the two sides to find out what is broken, bent, or mis-assembled. You might also want to remove the two rotors and swap them to see if the problem moves from one side to the other which would indicate that the replacement rotor was not the correct one or is out of spec.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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I have a 2006 f-250, i have a grinding noise that sounds like it is coming from the rear wheels, but when i apply the brakes it stops. what could this be?


Are your brake pads worn? They will have a small metal tab on one of the pads on each side. These are referred to squeeker tabs. They let you know when your pads are worn enough to need changed before you get metal to metal part failure. They are designed to barely scrape against the rotor when the brakes are not applied and make an annoying noise. I would look again and make sure all rear pads are in good shape. If they are you might clean the brakes, sometimes a piece of dirt or debris can make the same noise. If you have one pad that is worn more than the rest make sure you clean and grease the caliper slide pins when you change the pads. Actually, you always want to make sure you clean and grease the slides when you do a brake job.

Jul 26, 2014 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

1 Answer

2008 town and country,..rear driver side brakes heating up making loud hum noise,..just replaced caliper and still doing it,....help what do i do???


Check the sliding hardware that the caliper bolts too. A glide pin could be seized.

If the caliper can't slide it can jam a pad against the rotor causing noise, heat and warped rotors.

May 22, 2011 | 2008 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

Just changed rear pads and rotors on my 2000 chev blazer..after test driving rear brakes were hot and smoking...brake pads seem to be sticking..are the calipers shot or do I need hoses or both?


  • Well when you looked at the brake pads after your drive were the pads stuck to the rotor?
  • First thing to do is double check your pad and rotor installation.
  • Also check to make sure the right parts were installed.
  • When you pushed back the pistons on your calipers did they flow back nice and smooth? Did they wedge in and get stuck? This would make the pads drag.
  • If you used grease did you get some on the pad by accident? If this is the case it will burn off.

  • How is the car stopping for you? Properly? Do you hear any grinding while driving slow? While driving fast? Over heating rotors will turn a bluish stain. That is when it is really time to be worried.
  • If your brakes are not dragging then give some time for the pads to ware in.
  • If the piston is stuck forcing the pads against the rotor all the time then you need to replace the calipers.
  • Don't forget to bleed the lines afterword.

Regards, Tony

May 17, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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My 1998 ford escort brake peddle started pulsing and then a noise. Checked fluid, not down any fluid, and no leeks, just feels like I can not stop well., No ABS lite til yesterday, then it came on after...


Normally a "pulsing" brake pedal means that that you have a warped brake rotor or the brake caliper is lose. I would start by taking the front wheel off and inspecting the brake pads and the rotor. If the brake pads are worn down bad replace them. Pay special attention to the brake rotors also as if the are grooved very bad, they should also be replaced.

Nov 15, 2010 | 1998 Ford Escort

2 Answers

Bled my brakes manually changed pads rotors caliper master cylinder shoes wheel cylinder and I can stand up on my brake pad and it will only come to a slow stop


SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A BAD BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD VACCUM TO IT WHEN YOU TAKE THE HOSE OFF SHOULD HIS THE BOOSTER IS THE ASSIST FOR THE BRAKES CHECK THAT AND GET BACK TO ME I HAVE ALSO SEEN ABS TROUBLES

Oct 15, 2010 | 2000 Cadillac Escalade

1 Answer

Replace rear brake pads


Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
rear_brake_pads.jpg Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_2.jpg To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
rear_brake_pads_3.jpg After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_4.jpg With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor.jpg Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor_2.jpg Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brakes_7.jpg Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
rear_brake_rotor_3.jpg After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brake_rotor_4.jpg Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Jun 01, 2010 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

Rear brake noise after brake replacement


probably a dumb question, but if there is a backing plate, did you make sure it isnt bent and hitting the rotor? you never want to sand new rotors, although i dont think it would cause this concern. i would suggest lightly scuffing up the brake pads. this will eliminate any noise caused by the contact of the rotors and pads. if it goes away then you know its a problem with the pads/rotors.

scoring of only the inside rotors would make me think that possibly the caliper slides are frozen up. make sure they move quite freely on the slides. it is not uncommon for brake pads to score rotors though.

but brake noises at low speeds that dont' change when applying light brake pressure are usually some sort of metal or something contacting the rotor.

Mar 23, 2010 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front breaks are smoking


caliper is sticking or pads are sticking ,proportioning valve with vehicle jacked up and supported and wheel removed inspect pads and rotor for damage excessive wear if good- turn hub/rotor by hand have someone assist u by stepping on brake observe brake caliper stop then release brake piston should release slightly from pad try turn hub again w/out touching brake if stuck in place replace and caliper released replace pads if caliper still clamped remove caliper and inspect for leak or damage compress caliper and try brake again if does if sticks again replace caliper

Oct 13, 2009 | 1988 Dodge Ram 50

2 Answers

Brakes on 2003 nissan altima are wearing on one side only. has been repaired repeatedly. After a few thousand miles only one side works other side consquently wears out out fast &then there is a...


Sounds like the caliper on the side that isn't wearing is not working properly. You need to test it to make sure that it is pushing out properly when the brakes are pressed. I can't imagine that it is working correctly. It sounds like the piston isn't moving out and you need to look at replacing that caliper so that your brakes wear evenly and also to make sure you have your full stopping power. Good luck and thanks for using FixYa!

Jul 08, 2009 | 2003 Nissan Altima

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