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Start by checking fuses & work on getting the fan or blower working & all havc vent doors working After that your ready to work on the refrigerant side No vehicle experience or system reference material,you may need help at a shop
AC Actuator ?
The temperature control regulates the HVAC system air temperature in any mode. A temperature control cable mechanically links the temperature control to the temperature door. Your hearing stuff inside the blower motor housing , like leafs or someother de·bris .
Because your vehicle has no electric actuator .
Disconnect the electrical connections from the blower motor.
Remove the blower motor retaining heat stakes with a chisel or a screwdriver.
Are you putting the right amp fuse in place of that fuse was at ? If you have a fuse that is 5 amps smaller could produce this same problem so go make sure your manual says what amp fuse goes there first. This might solve the issue. Usually if the fuse keeps breaking inside of it means that there might be a short some where else.
It does blow correct? Just not hot air? This shop replaced the control head (the unit that the knobs are connected to)? I'm assuming the answer to all is yes. There may be a jam. Not too common but I've seen it a couple times. There are doors within the air box under your dash where your blower motor and heater core are. The control head controls these doors, opening one vent door to outside air and/or to the evaporator, closing the other vent door to the heater core or vise versa. It also controls the doors which direct air to certain ducts that will blow out the selected vents. If something has been droped down through a vent and worked its way to these doors I'm talking about, it could jam the door closed that goes to the heater core, preventing heat from blowing through the ducts.
Check the fuse first thing. If the fuse it good then either the blower motor speed control switch, blower motor resistor pack, or the blower motor itself is bad. Normally the speed control switch rarely goes bad. If some of the speeds did not work prior to total failure then the resistor pack is bad. If that is not the case then apply 12 volts directly to the blower motor to see if it is good. If it runs suspect the resistor pack as the culprit.
Either Your fan switch is burned out or you blower motor is no good, your blower motor is on the passenger side under the dash. Before you replace any parts you need to check your fuses and relays under your hood and in the car. Usually if your fan switch goes bad you will still get some air blowing thru the vents, so my guess would be blower motor, If its not a blown fuse or relay.