I have a 1995 ford escort trying to remove rear brake drum. How the heck do you remove them? There are two philips head screws that are rusted on bad ,thinking I cant get anything fixed til I get them out any suggestions...??
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Re: 1995 ford escort trying to remove rear brake drum
You have a easy problem.
Remove both rear wheels and the 2 philip head screwes either hold a good philips screwdriver hard on to the screws and hit the end of s/driver with a hammer and at the same time twisting to the left (hit about 3 or 4 times )if dosent come undone then get a centre punch and put the pointed end on to the left hand side of the screw and 1 hit will loosing it off if not 2 hits but must be to the l/h/side of screw then ondo it with the s/driver finished unless the drum is also rusted on then hit the drum from behind on the edge a few times to break the rust.
CLEAN UP THE CENTRE OF DRUM WITH A FILE BEFORE REFITTING
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The auto adjuster needs to be released! It should be a knurled nut or notched nut, turn it a bit to close the shoes! When you press the brake pedal after fitting hub and wheels they will automatically reset!
Hi, If you have access to a jack, and some kind of blocking (for safety), remove the wheel,and with a hammer, rap firmly around the break drum. Be careful not to strike the studs that hold the wheel on. Maybe want to screw the lug nuts back on a way so as not to damage the stud threads in case you hit them with the hammer. By sitting the brakes have gotten "frozen" sort of rusted to the drum. The rapping of the hammer usually frees up the brake shoes. Make sure the parking brake cable is not rusted tight also. Wayne
Yes. and than the drum will come off. You will find that it will not move at first so take a hammer and tap, not slam, around the edge of the drum to brake the rust. It you have difficulty removing the 2 screws don't strip the heads. Take your screw driver and put it in the slot than tip it at an angle and hit the end with a hammer to apply force sideways to the screw. This will, in most cases, brake the rust and permit the screw to turn.
You will have to release the brake adjustment on the wheels in question to be able to get them off. It also might help to try and rotate the brake drums backwards as you try to remove them after backing of the brake adjustment.
Hi, Removing the drums can be a little difficult if they are really worn and. have a large lip inside where the brake shoes have worn them down. Anyway here goes, loosen wheel nut/s slightly, raise the car and make safe by using an axle stand or similar then lower it so the wheel is off the ground. Remove all nut/s and take wheel to one side, you'll then see the whole of the drum, there should be 1 or 2 retaining Philips type screws between the locating holes for the wheel, these need to be removed possibly with an impact screwdriver if too tight. Once screws are out release the hand brake, hopefully the drum will rotate, try waggling it from side to side along it circumference pulling the drum towards you, it may move a few mm then lock? try using a very heavy rubber mallet to thump the outside edge of the drum whilst turning it. This hopefully will loosen the brake shoes holding the drum on you may need to keep doing this for a good while. If you have no success then try carefully doing the same with a copper/hide hammer. Still no joy then possibly the lip inside is too great meaning the drums maybe beyond their wear limit so a good belt with a heavy lump hammer is the only way. I hope this helped? please press the Blue button if happy with my FREE Efforts, Thank You! Paul 'W' U.K.
check to be sure emergency brake is not engaged ..and that cable is not frozen/rusted keeping it from releasing at baking plate into back of drum..often there is a knock out...(dimpled.stamped impression in backing plate) where the adjusting hole should be..you would need to slam that out (or in) with a heavy drift or screwdriver you are willing to hurt..then get to the star adjuster adn back it off use lubricant around drum/backing plate area and at center (hub/drum) area where rust happens and pry with large screwdrivers 180 degrees apart between backing plate and drum wiggling and shifting positions around circumference...also a trick..open zerk fitting at that wheel cylinder and wiggle screwdrivers 'tween backing plate and drum to get shoes to close some....good luck
You need to get a bolt with the same diameter and thread pitch as the brake drumretaining screws. On my 1997 Escort that's an 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch bolt. The length should be about 12mm. or larger. Don't get a bolt that's longer than about 20mm. The bolt goes into a hole in the brake drum, bearing down on a plate inside the hub. You can't use a brake drum retaining screw because you need to be able to apply more torque to the fastener than could be safely applied to a jacked vehicle