Question about 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche

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Pedal almost goes to floor, see steam or smoke from front wheels

Pedal almost goes to floor, see steam or smoke when applying brakes in the rain, vehicle is barely braking even at low speeds under 20 mph. Red brake light just came on today went off and then came back on, this all started today. It does appear to have brake fluid in the master cylinder. Also hear air in the lines when pressing brakes.Cannot tell if there is any fluid on tires since it is raining.

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Definitely sounds like you have a brake fluid leak. It shouldn't be driven anymore until the problem is repaired. The red brake light comes on when the fluid is low. If your in a rusty climate one of the brake lines has probably rusted out. When it dries up try following the lines from the master to each wheel. However since you said you saw smoke when braking i'd bet the leak is near a wheel and fluid hit the rotor or caliper which caused the smoke. In either case, sounds like something has to be replaced / repaired. Good luck.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Dec 06, 2010 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes to the floor


check vacumn and\or connections to the vacumn boost cannister.

Apr 21, 2010 | 1985 Ford F150

5 Answers

Brake pedal goes to the floor only when engine is running. Pedal is perfect with engine off.


your power brake booster is blown out
the seal has a leak in it
run the truck for 3 minutes and shut it off. with the windows up listen carefully while you gently apply the brakes
listen for a hissing sound of air leaking.
the sound of these leaking is a very soft sound

Mar 27, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Brake pedal goes to the floor as soon as there is vacuum applied


if the brake pedal goes to the floor the brake master cylinder is defective and must be replaced. use the helpful link from my friends at 2carpros.com for photo help with the job.

Mar 17, 2010 | 1998 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Is it safe to drive car if brakes caught fire - still has lining!


I would suggest that you adjust your rear brakes. Most likely you have drum brakes in the rear. When the rear brakes are out of adjustment (caused by not using "e-brake" when you park the car. The "e-brake" when applied keeps the rear brakes adjusted with a self adjusting mechanism.) the front brakes have to do ALL of the work to stop the car. In this case going down a steep grade for a long time simply overheated the front brakes. When the front brake pads overheat they get "glazed" and don't want to work anymore. Most likely reason for brake pedal going to the floor is the brake fluid was boiling. Hope this helps. Good luck.

May 23, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes down to floor. Putting brake fluid doesn't solve problem. Vehicle must coast to a complete stop.


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2 Answers

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are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?

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